Shed dimensions question (storage, not dropped antlers)

[thedutchtouch]

At some point in the next few years I'm planning on building/buying a backyard storage shed/workshop. (Garage not an option) I'll likely run power to it and use it partially for storage, partially for a workshop, but my question is about dimensions- where I live I'm limited to 150 square ft for a shed, unless I want to pay an extra fee (I don't). In order to maximize space and function I've been going back and forth between a square and rectangular shape, so am wondering about the somewhat extreme end of the rectangle spectrum- 8x18 (technically could be 18 3/4). One added pro to this shape is it'll cover more fence and my neighbors on that side have a really annoying dog that barks nonstop if he sees anyone, so the longer the shed, the less he can see, but wondering if I'm just being silly and a more square shed would be a more functional workshop. I'm an amateur woodworker/general diy/tinkerer so would use the shed to build furniture, boats, bows, tan hides, who knows. It would also store most of my hunting/fishing/tools so I'd plan to build it pretty well to be secure and watertight. I'm going back and forth between a square shape giving more area to work around all sides of a piece/workbench vs longer rectangle giving me more separation between storage and work areas. I'd likely have a door/access on two different walls either way.

Somewhat of a silly/overthinking it question, but it's the off season, anyone want to weigh in with pros/cons about shed dimensions? I'd appreciate any thoughts, just please don't bother recommending a garage, bigger structure, or moving as those things aren't in the cards right now.

 

[kyler1945]

150sqft won’t leave much room for woodworking, and hunting gear storage. You’d spend an hour taking all your gear out, and putting back up after you’re done.

Saying that to say - make it with 10’ or 12’ walls. And store as much gear in totes you can lift overhead, and store everything 7.5’ and above.

For tools, think about workflow(material or pieces of furniture coming in, finished projects out. Orient your doors and tool location to that. I prefer doors 90* to each other, and I definitely want a door on the short side (so I have straight access to long room). Especially important if you’re bringing in 8’+ stock or sheets. Less important if everything is under 6’.

I had an 18x30 WW shop I stored all my gear in. I still spent 10 minutes moving atv/bikes/lawn gear out when I wanted to work. Thankfully I roughed in a bathroom that doubled as closet for hunting storage. But it still wore on me moving the big stuff.

Wood dust gets in everything, including your hunting gear. Seal stuff you don’t want it in.

Might even consider doing a loft with a jib crane that is extended off the ridge beam. Build a couple pallet size crates with free pallets from small businesses around you. Load your hunting gear in those, jib up and then roll into loft.

I vote 10x15, with double door at least 5’ wide on short side that you can back truck up to, and make any other doors minimum 36” wide, if not double doors as well. Make all doors open out to maximize space inside.

Get tool dollies, they’re worth every penny in small space. Store everything you can overhead and on wheels.

 

[thedutchtouch]

150sqft won’t leave much room for woodworking, and hunting gear storage. You’d spend an hour taking all your gear out, and putting back up after you’re done.

Saying that to say - make it with 10’ or 12’ walls. And store as much gear in totes you can lift overhead, and store everything 7.5’ and above.

For tools, think about workflow(material or pieces of furniture coming in, finished projects out. Orient your doors and tool location to that. I prefer doors 90* to each other, and I definitely want a door on the short side (so I have straight access to long room). Especially important if you’re bringing in 8’+ stock or sheets. Less important if everything is under 6’.

I had an 18x30 WW shop I stored all my gear in. I still spent 10 minutes moving atv/bikes/lawn gear out when I wanted to work. Thankfully I roughed in a bathroom that doubled as closet for hunting storage. But it still wore on me moving the big stuff.

Wood dust gets in everything, including your hunting gear. Seal stuff you don’t want it in.

Might even consider doing a loft with a jib crane that is extended off the ridge beam. Build a couple pallet size crates with free pallets from small businesses around you. Load your hunting gear in those, jib up and then roll into loft.

I vote 10x15, with double door at least 5’ wide on short side that you can back truck up to, and make any other doors minimum 36” wide, if not double doors as well. Make all doors open out to maximize space inside.

Get tool dollies, they’re worth every penny in small space. Store everything you can overhead and on wheels.

I should have mentioned that I'm planning a barn style roof and storage loft, potentially with an internal door to keep as much dust as possible out of that area, but you're spot on re: storage and dust issues. I'll likely keep clothing and bows/guns in the house still, but don't care as much if sticks and platforms and such get some dust on them.

 

[GCTerpfan]

Can you go two full stories? Several shed builders around here offer two story sheds. Would give you 150 sq. Ft. For both uses and it’s usually cheaper to go up then it is to go out. I’ve got a 12’x20’ shed with a barn roof and loft and climbing up there for things I consistently use would be a pain.

 

[Fuse Dude]

12 x12 gable with opposing dormers, with a second floor attic room. Add lean-to porchs of eight feet all the way around. Plenty of room. Add a pair of roll doors.

 

[Bigterp]

Lots of thoughts, agree with @kyler1945 multiuse & woodworking is going to be alot of dust. First off how much is the extra fee for going bigger & by how much. My shop is 16’x20’ & I can’t wait to build a bigger one….. not trying to dash your hopes but woodworking equipment takes up a lot of room. Then you have to have a place to assemble/finish…

 

[thedutchtouch]

I think a second story changes it's classification and I need building permits, this is also one of the other issues with going over 150. I currently drag my power tools out in to the driveway when I can't make a mess inside, so could do the same with the shed, but have a dust collector/would set that up with any stationary tools.

I have a job site table saw, planer and chop saw as my main dust creators and they can all be moved outside, it's when I start thinking of getting a band saw and jointer and lathe and disc/spindle sander that they become more of a stationary thing, so you're all right, I think it's trying to do too much with one thing as you all are pointing out. Back to the drawing board because in reality a garage is the real solution, that's just an extra zero more $$ though. Patience.

 

[woodsdog2]

My only suggestion to what @kyler1945 recommended would be to also add a man door near the back of one of the long sides to be able to access the back if needed and have a special project going on filling up most of the front where your double doors are located. You can also organize to be able to get quick access to often used things with this door access and less utlilized and/or larger stored items are kept out of the way so to speak. Also, if you’re going to electrify this is not as necessary but still consider a couple of windows to let natural light in for day work etc. sheds can be dark especially with a lot of storage bins or boxes. If you’re doing a metal roof consider translucent panels in a couple of key locations to augment the natural light from the windows.

 

[Bigterp]

Ok another question, what are your goals for making furniture? Just hobby/ enjoyment or do you sell some of it? If it’s the latter it’s what I’m doing & im going to use the profits to finish paying kid’s college & then give the Mrs. Her garage back & build a larger shop. That’s a long term play…. Lol

 

[thedutchtouch]

Ok another question, what are your goals for making furniture? Just hobby/ enjoyment or do you sell some of it? If it’s the latter it’s what I’m doing & im going to use the profits to finish paying kid’s college & then give the Mrs. Her garage back & build a larger shop. That’s a long term play…. Lol

Just for myself for now, possibly expand if I get better at it, but that expansion would line up with a move or a garage build in 8-10 years

 

[Bigterp]

I think that 12x 12 would be the most functional for what you’re describing. I think I know about where you’re at & those code restrictions are based on water diversion so it’s the footprint of the roof water not reaching the ground in that area ( so porches & lean to structures off that are out). Can you pour a pad & set the shed on that or need a permit for that. Bc if you were at ground level you could have an additional space out in front of the garage door to keep work station & tools mobile & roll stuff outside.

 

[BTaylor]

I'm with Kyler on the 10x15 but what about adding a concrete side pad with a roof. Double doors on that side and put all the wood working equipment on wheels and roll out to the covered area for work so the inside of the shop area has less dust and you could have better work flow.

 

[Jammintree]

I agree with the above and would add that a gable roof would create a substantial second floor storage area.

 

[thedutchtouch]

Concrete pad would also require a permit, however I do have an ancient pad in my back yard from an old garage, so I need to fully excavate that, but my plan/hope was to update it and put the shed next to it to use it as an outdoor work surface as well. I think (need to confirm with my crazy town code compliance office) that since it's already there I can replace like with like (and agree that I believe the square footage restrictions are due to water management. I already have water ingress issues in my cellar and with everything being clay here I guess it makes sense)

I think I'm back on the 10' width after thinking about if I lose 2 feet on one side to storage/workbench and then have a tool out in the center that's really getting cramped already, and I might want to build a boat with 7-8 foot beam one day. Also 10x15 seems more common if I want to buy a prebuilt, as in all things I'm trying to stop endlessly planning and start doing

 

[IndyBowhunter]

This is a cool project. I think you're on the right track looking around the 10x15 dimension to maximize your utility, and I'm interested to see what you do for your loft space. In small spaces, your organization and workflow need to be completely on point to be able to really maximize your experience, but it sounds like you've worked out some of that.

I absolutely love having my pole barn on our property, but I've owned it 6 months and it already feels like the 40x27 building should be twice its size due to my lack of effort in organizing all of my junk

 

[Bigterp]

Concrete pad would also require a permit, however I do have an ancient pad in my back yard from an old garage, so I need to fully excavate that, but my plan/hope was to update it and put the shed next to it to use it as an outdoor work surface as well. I think (need to confirm with my crazy town code compliance office) that since it's already there I can replace like with like (and agree that I believe the square footage restrictions are due to water management. I already have water ingress issues in my cellar and with everything being clay here I guess it makes sense)

I think I'm back on the 10' width after thinking about if I lose 2 feet on one side to storage/workbench and then have a tool out in the center that's really getting cramped already, and I might want to build a boat with 7-8 foot beam one day. Also 10x15 seems more common if I want to buy a prebuilt, as in all things I'm trying to stop endlessly planning and start doing

Check height restrictions as well, there’s some weird stuff about how high overall & also ht vs. main dwelling ht…….

 

[THill202]

Stormwater management is a SOB. If you were in PA I'd probably offer to help but I don't have a seal in MD and I know those folks do things a little differently than we do. It's not that terrible for a small project and you could probably figure most of it out yourself as long as they don't required fully engineered plans. You'll just need a little stone pit to take the roof water. Sometimes what we can do for a shed is just put in over a 12" bed of clean stone and extend the stone out past the drip line.

 

[thedutchtouch]

Stormwater management is a SOB. If you were in PA I'd probably offer to help but I don't have a seal in MD and I know those folks do things a little differently than we do. It's not that terrible for a small project and you could probably figure most of it out yourself as long as they don't required fully engineered plans. You'll just need a little stone pit to take the roof water. Sometimes what we can do for a shed is just put in over a 12" bed of clean stone and extend the stone out past the drip line.

Yeah avoiding all that headache is why I want to stay under 150 square feet for accessory structure. Basically under that the town/county don't care what you do, so that's the easiest. After having a few beverages last night I dreamed up a way to build walls with a 2 foot bump out (basically the thing would look like an octagon from the end) that would keep a 10x15 footprint but seems like a14x15 space at workbench height... But I think that's a bit silly in the sober light of day.

 

[BTaylor]

Yeah avoiding all that headache is why I want to stay under 150 square feet for accessory structure. Basically under that the town/county don't care what you do, so that's the easiest. After having a few beverages last night I dreamed up a way to build walls with a 2 foot bump out (basically the thing would look like an octagon from the end) that would keep a 10x15 footprint but seems like a14x15 space at workbench height... But I think that's a bit silly in the sober light of day.

If you are going to get creative, why not make a 10x10 pad. Then sink 4 poles for a 20x20 with cables and pulleys and a big winch. Build the 20x20 and lift that sonofagun about 8" off the pad. Make sure they dont have regs for suspended structures though.

 

[Horn]

If you are going to get creative, why not make a 10x10 pad. Then sink 4 poles for a 20x20 with cables and pulleys and a big winch. Build the 20x20 and lift that sonofagun about 8" off the pad. Make sure they dont have regs for suspended structures though.

Maybe it's easier to go down rather than up? Dig a basement , deep! Build your boat vertically Dutch! We know you have climbing gear and a harness and what not...