• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

States with traditional blackpowder seasons

I'm ready for flintlock, though I'm still going to start the season with my bow in saddle. Unless it snows then I'm stalking/still hunting with a powder/patch/ball as there is nothing like it.
 
If you can look at it in person, take a close look at the bore and vent (percussion or flintlock).

More than anything else, lack of thorough cleaning can turn a good looking rifle into a sewer pipe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MNFarmHunter said:
If you can look at it in person, take a close look at the bore and vent (percussion or flintlock).

More than anything else, lack of thorough cleaning can turn a good looking rifle into a sewer pipe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
You're absolutely right. Most folks that I've shot competition with over the years don't take real good care of their rifles for some reason. I've never put mine away loaded or dirty and the barrel shows it. I've seen guys at a spring fling that had their rifle still loaded up from deer season ,Wow. The trouble is you don't know how they took care of it w/o seeing it in person. Run a swab down it and check w/a bore light at least.Resized_20230103_065837_1127.jpeg
 
Is this starter kit worth the money or should I buy individual everything? 4B62D199-D092-4070-89F3-F678D1BEB003.png
 
gcr0003 said:
Is this starter kit worth the money or should I buy individual everything? View attachment 79136
Click to expand...
Get the gun first then go from there. Whatever you get, inline, flintlock, sidelock percussion, will dictate that equipment you'll need. Just like any other gun, the twist rate and ignition system will dictate what type of bullet and powder you'll use.

Word of advice, do not use a brush in the barrel unless you can remove the breech plug as you will get it stuck in the barrel otherwise.
 
MNFarmHunter said:
Get the gun first then go from there. Whatever you get, inline, flintlock, sidelock percussion, will dictate that equipment you'll need. Just like any other gun, the twist rate and ignition system will dictate what type of bullet and powder you'll use.

Word of advice, do not use a brush in the barrel unless you can remove the breech plug as you will get it stuck in the barrel otherwise.
Click to expand...
I am getting a traditions 50 cal deer or PA pellet rifle. Flintlock. Ok, trying to get some powder now. Where do y’all find that carries it?
here’s a list of stuff I’m trying to pick up
-flintlock pan primer
-3f powder, pellets or supplement
-ball starter
-patches
-50 cal balls or hornady conicals
-cleaning patch tip
-mink oil
-screw ball puller tip
-tc bore butter
-white flint
 
gcr0003 said:
I am getting a traditions 50 cal deer or PA pellet rifle. Flintlock. Ok, trying to get some powder now. Where do y’all find that carries it?
here’s a list of stuff I’m trying to pick up
-flintlock pan primer Don't know if FFFg will flow through a primer, I just use the powder horn.
-3f powder, pellets or supplement Being a flintlock, skip the pellets and use loose powder
-ball starter May or may not need based on what the gun likes. For mine, I can push the patched ball into the muzzle with some effort so a starter is unneeded
-patches Track of the Wolf or October Country. Get is minimum amount you can and get different sizes, .010, .015, cotton, ticking, to find out what works the best
-50 cal balls or hornady conicals Balls you can get anywhere, save the shipping costs and order from the same place you get the patches. Not sure on the ball-ets but those don't require patches so there's that at least
-cleaning patch tip Any gun shop or WW should have those jags
-mink oil Not sure what for but any store that has equine tack (Fleet Farm, etc) will carry it
-screw ball puller tip Same as the other jag question
-tc bore butter Same as the other jag questions or wherever you buy the balls/patches
-white flint No idea as I've never seen it. Track of the Wolf sells English flint and October Country sells French flint.
Click to expand...
 
I am getting a traditions 50 cal deer or PA pellet rifle. Flintlock. Ok, trying to get some powder now. Where do y’all find that carries it?
here’s a list of stuff I’m trying to pick up
-flintlock pan primer~JUST GET A BOTTLE OF 4F TO START WITH, IT WILL THROW A FLASH THROUGH ANY TOUCH HOLE,
-3f powder, pellets or supplement~ 3F/2F LOOSE
-ball starter~GET ONE, BUT NOT A CHEAP PLASTIC ONE, GET A WOOD, OR METAL PUSHER WOOD BALL STARTER
-patches~GET A COUPLE DIFFERENT THICKNESSES TO WORK YOUR LOAD UP IF YOU GO WITH ROUND BALLS
-50 cal balls or hornady conicals~ I RECOMMEND THE HORNADY PA CONICAL IF YOUR STRICTLY LOOKING TO EXTEND YOUR DEER SEASPN AND GOING FOR THE "TRADITION" I SHOOT THEM AND MAN SP THEY WORK AND ARE EASY TO WORK WITH.
-cleaning patch tip. YES
-mink oil. will work
-screw ball puller tip. yes
-tc bore butter. I recommend it
-white flint- don't know what this is either but just make sure you get hand knapped flints so you can keep them sharp, cut flints are garbage
 
As you get familiar with your rifle you can switch up the pan powder depending on the conditions. The more moisture there is in the air the larger the powder you'll want in the pan, 4F soups up real fast in damp conditions. You can use 2F I've done it before and killed deer, BUT you need to know how you gun acts with it prior to trying to hunt with a 2F or 3F pan charge, it WILL be slower, so.lesrn to shoot all configurations, you can get oversized touch hole inserts for the traditions which will help a little bit I don't recommend them..... but that's my opinion. Also start learning how to knap an edge, you can find diy instructions on making a knapping tool from 20 penny nails and similar objects.
Lastly, in the beginning clean your rifle alot, learn to tear it down, clean it after every shooting session as you gain experience you will learn when it need a tear down cleaning and when it can wait. But at first always clean it and grease it when done shooting....... believe me you can ruin a rifle fast with inexperience.
 
Premium agate flint is what I was calling white flint. It was recommended to me.
 
I've heard U.S. flints called white flint because they are, well, white, but have never actually seen them for sale.

English and French flints and the most common and as far as I can tell, carry with them a Ford v. Chevy cult followership. As @ThePennsylvanian mentioned, just make sure you get hand knapped and not cut flints and you'll be fine.
 
Oh and I didn’t list 4f because a buddy of mine says he has a ton of it and will give me some.
 
ThePennsylvanian said:
Do not buy agate flints... they are cut flints, and are pretty much trash, no offense to who ever recommended them............... you want an english or French hand knapped I promise you that..
Click to expand...
Dang ok! Lol
 
The problem with cut flints is you get maybe 24+/- shots to a flint, that's 10-12+/- a side, and for the most part they can't be knapped sharp again because they get all sorts of ways, not with any grain in particular, hand knapped flints can continually be knapped sharp until there just isn't enough stone left to knap and make adequate contact on the frizzen......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top