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Stepp Ladder discover on different bark

Scott F

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
766
Location
Tampa, Florida
This weekend was the VA opener. This year brought about a couple 'firsts' for me; a sunrise-to-sunset sit, and using Stepps.
I've gotten pretty proficient with the knot and estimating the correct amount of tension to use to cam over on the first try. It is a great system, I really enjoy the ones that I bought.

I climbed into a 12-14" diameter White Oak and up into the 'shaggy' part of the bark. By about midday I had swung around and shifted my weight long enough to grind into the bark on the tree. I think this was the cause of the straps loosening ever so slightly to create a hint of movement. Thankfully, in my haste that morning I didn't put my Stepps a full step above my LW sticks, I was just too eager to get in the saddle. To adjust the one loosening Stepp I was able to slink down my tether via Ropeman, stand on my LW stick and easily adjust the one Stepp that was getting 'wiggly' on me. This was done while still tethered in my saddle.

The next day I hunted I was on a Poplar in the am and a Red Oak in the pm and the Stepps held perfectly for hours on both trees. I still remembered to ensure that they were fastened one 1/2 step above my LW sticks in the event I needed to make minor adjustments during the day. Thankfully, I didn't have to, but I fully intend on this shorter distance between my Stepps and top stick than I originally planned prior to the season. That 1/2 step advantage in height pales in comparison to the movement required to un-tether, then hook up a lineman's belt and scurry down the tree (likely while saying pretty bad words) to tighten a Stepp that you ground into submission because you picked the wrong place to hang in the first place.

Just passing this tip forward in the event that you enjoy long sits on shaggy-barked trees that are apparently void of deer crossing like I seem to pick...dadgum it.
 
I've done the same thing with my XOP platform. After a few hours of side to side grinding against the bark, I've loosened the tether, dropped down to the climbing stick, and readjusted the tension.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
I've noticed the same on white oaks practicing in my backyard - missed the VA opener this year but will get out there eventually
 
This weekend was the VA opener. This year brought about a couple 'firsts' for me; a sunrise-to-sunset sit, and using Stepps.
I've gotten pretty proficient with the knot and estimating the correct amount of tension to use to cam over on the first try. It is a great system, I really enjoy the ones that I bought.

I climbed into a 12-14" diameter White Oak and up into the 'shaggy' part of the bark. By about midday I had swung around and shifted my weight long enough to grind into the bark on the tree. I think this was the cause of the straps loosening ever so slightly to create a hint of movement. Thankfully, in my haste that morning I didn't put my Stepps a full step above my LW sticks, I was just too eager to get in the saddle. To adjust the one loosening Stepp I was able to slink down my tether via Ropeman, stand on my LW stick and easily adjust the one Stepp that was getting 'wiggly' on me. This was done while still tethered in my saddle.

The next day I hunted I was on a Poplar in the am and a Red Oak in the pm and the Stepps held perfectly for hours on both trees. I still remembered to ensure that they were fastened one 1/2 step above my LW sticks in the event I needed to make minor adjustments during the day. Thankfully, I didn't have to, but I fully intend on this shorter distance between my Stepps and top stick than I originally planned prior to the season. That 1/2 step advantage in height pales in comparison to the movement required to un-tether, then hook up a lineman's belt and scurry down the tree (likely while saying pretty bad words) to tighten a Stepp that you ground into submission because you picked the wrong place to hang in the first place.

Just passing this tip forward in the event that you enjoy long sits on shaggy-barked trees that are apparently void of deer crossing like I seem to pick...dadgum it.
I have done the same thing. For me it usually happens when I put 3 at the same level. I do not get 1 of them tight enough and have to get it right half way through the day or between the morning/evening sit on a preset. Once tightened properly on a preset, I have not had to do it again. I like the idea of going 1/2 a step up instead of a full step.
 
I've noticed the same on white oaks practicing in my backyard - missed the VA opener this year but will get out there eventually
Yeah, they stayed tight to the tree for a couple hours, after that, one of my two steps got a little loose because the bark was being abraded. I decided to tighten them both for good measure; it is simple and free after all.

Question for you Stepp users --
How far apart do you place them as a platform?
I know this is dependent on the tree you are in, but I only have two and have been putting them as a platform at the sides of the tree. My theory was that doing this would enable me to have a more 'straight down' pressure if I had to move around the tree for a shot.
This also gives me a longer axis to rest a size 13 boot rather than standing on the short axis front of the Stepp like I was doing calf raises. Make sense?

That being stated, I may install them closer together for my next sit, to make it more of a true platform of sorts.

Planning future adventures is part of the game, right? If not, dont let me in on the game because it is all I think about...

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, they stayed tight to the tree for a couple hours, after that, one of my two steps got a little loose because the bark was being abraded. I decided to tighten them both for good measure; it is simple and free after all.

Question for you Stepp users --
How far apart do you place them as a platform?
I know this is dependent on the tree you are in, but I only have two and have been putting them as a platform at the sides of the tree. My theory was that doing this would enable me to have a more 'straight down' pressure if I had to move around the tree for a shot.
This also gives me a longer axis to rest a size 13 boot rather than standing on the short axis front of the Stepp like I was doing calf raises. Make sense?

That being stated, I may install them closer together for my next sit, to make it more of a true platform of sorts.

Planning future adventures is part of the game, right? If not, dont let me in on the game because it is all I think about...

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
I place the stepps at roughly 7 to 8 o'clock and 4 to 5 o'clock depending on the size of tree. This gives me 1 boot per stepp and allows me to pivot my weight and ease around the tree without moving my feet. I can stay hidden and then slip around to take the shot without changing footing. I do have a tree that is larger that has them at 5, 7 and 9 o'clock due to a limb being in the way for the climb up. Climb up at 9 and rest on the 5 and 7.
 
One thing to watch out for if using ropemodded sticks, my stepps (set at 3/4 oclock and 8/9 oclock) started inching down toward contact with the rope holding my top stick to the tree. The stepps could damage that rope and make for an unpleasant surprise.
 
Yep.

Make an effort to go to different trees for practice.
I have a ‘go to’ practice tree in my yard and I have to force myself to use different trees when I get new gear.

On our opening day I was on a big Persimmon tree that has large but very smooth surface bark.
My Ameristep platform wouldn’t stay in place and I kept having to pull it up with my feet
 
You're supposed to cradle the tree with your legs, and flip upside down to tighten the step up. That's the whole point of a saddle right? Right?
 
You're supposed to cradle the tree with your legs, and flip upside down to tighten the step up. That's the whole point of a saddle right? Right?

Spoken like someone that has never tried to tie the Steppe knot upside down!
 
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