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Tether/Rappel Rope

F

Flyerzfan10

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Messages
453
Location
Wapwallopen, PA
Ok, so I bought some Sterling HTP 9mm and a Beal Jammy for an autoblock. I still need a Safeguard or ATC to rappel with. I'm slowly buying things as I go along. Would I be able to use the Beal Jammy as my prussic to tie in to my bridge or is it only used as an autoblock? If I go with an ATC then I could slide the Jammy down to my linesman loop and hook in my ATC above to rappel with??? Thanks!
 

Rappelling 101

I use spurs and love them. However climbing down is more hairy than climbing up so I’m intrigued by rappelling. It is intimidating and it seems scary to try and do but so was saddle hunting at first and now it’s second nature and I love my swings and pulleys. I’ve been researching the...
r.tapatalk.com

Go back to the first couple posts, and you should have your answer.

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I thought I saw on here you don't want an autoblock with the safeguard?
 
I use an autoblock with the safeguard. As long as the bridge isn’t too short, the autoblock doesn’t get anywhere near the safeguard.


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DeerLaughAtMe said:
I use an autoblock with the safeguard. As long as the bridge isn’t too short, the autoblock doesn’t get anywhere near the safeguard.


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Click to expand...
There was a safety warning from Madrock about not doing this. A thread was posted about it a few days ago.

Interesting warning from Mad Rock Safeguard paperwork.

First of all, yes, I actually read through their paperwork. Wasn’t too worried about how to operate it, I was using a Grigri when they first came out and the safeguard is very similar. Anyway, I found an interesting warning against using a backup friction knot on the braking end...
saddlehunter.com
 
bj139 said:
There was a safety warning from Madrock about not doing this. A thread was posted about it a few days ago.

Interesting warning from Mad Rock Safeguard paperwork.

First of all, yes, I actually read through their paperwork. Wasn’t too worried about how to operate it, I was using a Grigri when they first came out and the safeguard is very similar. Anyway, I found an interesting warning against using a backup friction knot on the braking end...
saddlehunter.com
Click to expand...

How do they define knot or mechanical device? Are they talking friction, stopper knot, or both? I use a klemheist not autoblock occasionally but usually don’t use the knot to control descent. I don’t fully open the safeguard. I can see where the pivot might break if you were to descend the safeguard into a stopper knot or autoblock. The warning seems a bit vague to me.


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kenn1320 said:
I thought I saw on here you don't want an autoblock with the safeguard?
Click to expand...

That warning no doubt has all of the manufacturer's assumptions about how this is being used cooked into it. We're using this device well outside of its designed purpose as a belay device with dynamic rope.
 
That warning was based on using the Safeguard for Dynamic Belaying. There is some conversation in that post. I don’t see an issue with using a backup prusik in a static load application such as a tether. It’s only there to protect against Safeguard catastrophic failure. It certainly shouldn’t be used if you were feeding line through the Safeguard (such as rappelling) where there is a chance to pull the prusik or mechanical brake into the Safeguard.
 
I think the problem is the force on the pivot in a fall. The line slipping through the device reduces this force. If you stop it from slipping with an autoblock you increase this force. If you don't fall, it does not matter.
 
bj139 said:
I think the problem is the force on the pivot in a fall. The line slipping through the device reduces this force. If you stop it from slipping with an autoblock you increase this force. If you don't fall, it does not matter.
Click to expand...
Ya I was trying to understand the difference between an autoblock holding the rope tight, or my hand.
 
In our application, or I’ll say my application, a fall means slipping off a platform or rolling around a tree. It’s not a fall of several feet where the Safeguard suddenly is shocked and loaded with the force of a falling climber. It is a static load. The line is not slipping through the Safeguard. I keep a few inches of slack in the rope between the Safeguard and the Prusik. This would provide for a minor amount of slippage even though I don’t expect any. If you are planning for a climber type fall, then you have way too much slack in your tether.
In my application, I‘m more concerned about individual component failure and look for ways to mitigate such failures. While using the Safeguard on my tether, I consider what happens if that Safeguard comes apart while just leaning. If it does, the Prusik would catch me. Now there are other ways to mitigate this risk, like having another tether and bridge connection etc. Everybody has to assess what works for them and interpret instructions, or seek professional input.
 
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