The stitch hitch

[JFin15]

Someone asked me about this so I figured I'd post it. Idk if it's been discussed here or not.

The stitch hitch is the name of this friction hitch and the latest version of a srt climbing hitch of another very accomplished production climber on another forum.

It's used the same way you would use a multicenter or other srt device. It allows the climber to ascend and descent at any time without any other gear (minus acsenders) or changeover. Its advised to always keeps another way to descend on the climber(figure 8) incase of emergency.

A heat resistant hitch cord must be used to counteract heat: most class 2 rope will usually work(vectran, aramid, technora) but always check for the heat rating.

This small rigging ring keeps the legs of the hitch at the same length and thereby the same amount of tension/slack. This keeps the hitch from binding up, which is why you cant climb solely on a prussic or other hitch.

You can use any preferred method of tending; figure 8, micro pulley, x ring, or rope thimble.

I use this setup for hunting when I dont want to carry other, heavier gear, ie rope wrench.

If anyone wants more info theres a thread on the stitch hitch on another forum, just google it. There are many different variations and setups.
Use at your own risk...low and slow.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[TheATLien]

Are you using an Amsteel/dyneema core in your friction hitch?

 

[TheATLien]

For those wondering and wanting to research this hitch it's called the "Sticht Hitch". Here is a link to TreeBuzz with the discussion.

Sticht Hitch

This hitch has come up in a couple other threads, Hitch Hiker Length, and Lanyard Adjuster. Thanks to those who are trying this hitch and giving feedback on their experiences. @JontreeHI, there might be binding due to the legs being too short to allow the ring to be positioned farther down from...

www.treebuzz.com

Or maybe @Brocky can explain more on it.

 

[Brocky]

JFin shows a basic way to use it. The ring and the twist in back, together, allows it to not bind up and can be used to descend. The ring locks in place and can be used to adjust the amount of friction the climber wants. If the ring is close to wraps it grabs reliably, but too close and it is hard to tend, need to find the sweet spot. The ring also keeps the four sections of cord going through it from spreading out, which would lead to binding. These four sections shouldn’t be too close so that the twist doesn’t ride on the rope from using a too small of a ring.
The tender shown can be used without the thimble with just a little more friction while tending.
A tender can also be a part of the hitch. Another option is to use just a piece of cord to tie the hitch with a stopper knot at the end.

 

[TheATLien]

JFin shows a basic way to use it. The ring and the twist in back, together, allows it to not bind up and can be used to descend. The ring locks in place and can be used to adjust the amount of friction the climber wants. If the ring is close to wraps it grabs reliably, but too close and it is hard to tend, need to find the sweet spot. The ring also keeps the four sections of cord going through it from spreading out, which would lead to binding. These four sections shouldn’t be too close so that the twist doesn’t ride on the rope from using a too small of a ring.
The tender shown can be used without the thimble with just a little more friction while tending.
A tender can also be a part of the hitch. Another option is to use just a piece of cord to tie the hitch with a stopper knot at the end.
View attachment 44175

@Brocky What Cords/Ropes have you tested with Oplux/Canyon C-IV and the Sticht Hitch? I'm looking for something relatively light weight for SRT that can be used in a rope walker configuration since I'm waiting on the HHx to be rereleased.

 

[Brocky]

Any cord will work as long as it isn’t too stiff to grab. Every 6mm or smaller cord I tried worked with five wraps, but the extra friction isn’t an issue when tending like most friction hitches, because it can be lessened by moving the ring farther from the ring.
Something like 9mm HTP is nice for a lightweight rope for SRT tree climbing, usually don’t need the waterproof features of the Oplux and C-IV.
Here is a diy HH that works, but is more of a prototype. It eliminates the carabiner and carabiner, making not necessary to have a heavy duty steel body.

 

[JFin15]

Are you using an Amsteel/dyneema core in your friction hitch?

Yes. but it's very important to have a heat resistant cover over it if doing this. Also, always be conscious of the eyes so they dont contact the climbing rope. Amsteel has a low melting point

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[JFin15]

@Brocky What Cords/Ropes have you tested with Oplux/Canyon C-IV and the Sticht Hitch? I'm looking for something relatively light weight for SRT that can be used in a rope walker configuration since I'm waiting on the HHx to be rereleased.

I've tried almost all 6-7mm heat resistant cords I am aware of with one brocky recommending taking the cake. 7mm coppa 5000. I saw one the other day I want to try just havent yet. I prefer a 7mm over 6mm on oplux or other 8mm bc it releases better, less likely to bind up, when descending.
Also, you can do like the one in my pic and use any splicable rope just make sure to use a heat resistant cover if it doesnt have one.


--the one I want to try is 6-7.5mm probe, technora core.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[JFin15]

Any cord will work as long as it isn’t too stiff to grab. Every 6mm or smaller cord I tried worked with five wraps, but the extra friction isn’t an issue when tending like most friction hitches, because it can be lessened by moving the ring farther from the ring.
Something like 9mm HTP is nice for a lightweight rope for SRT tree climbing, usually don’t need the waterproof features of the Oplux and C-IV.
Here is a diy HH that works, but is more of a prototype. It eliminates the carabiner and carabiner, making not necessary to have a heavy duty steel body.
View attachment 44194

Nice work with that HH brocky edition! I haven't seen it lately but it's looking well refined, the dogbone especially

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Brocky]

The dogbone was another idea to eliminate the need to tie the second stopper knot.

 

[Saddler]

Are there any videos showing how to tie the hitch? I think I can recreate what I’m seeing in the pictures, but I’m not certain. It’s probably obvious to others, I just have a hitch/knot-tying deficiency and this seems like one I don’t want to screw up.

This is an amazing idea, by the way. I may not be able to tie the hitch, but I can see the benefit. I won’t be surprised if it gets more attention from folks who climb SRT on these forums over time. Thanks for bringing it up.

 

[Brocky]

--the one I want to try is 6-7.5mm probe, technora core.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I just got the 6mm and 8mm, both single braid, but the 6mm is a solid braid with 6 strands, rather than the usual hollow braid with 12 strands, which the 8mm is. The 8mm flattens out and is probably spliceable, the 6mm is very firm and might be spliceable.
Edit: forgot to mention, got shorted 9” on both 20’ that was ordered!

 

[Brocky]

Are there any videos showing how to tie the hitch? I think I can recreate what I’m seeing in the pictures, but I’m not certain. It’s probably obvious to others, I just have a hitch/knot-tying deficiency and this seems like one I don’t want to screw up.

This is an amazing idea, by the way. I may not be able to tie the hitch, but I can see the benefit. I won’t be surprised if it gets more attention from folks who climb SRT on these forums over time. Thanks for bringing it up.

First do the four wraps, cross them over the ring and take them to the back, the hitch on left.
Next cross the two legs and rotate once to make a twist, take the eyes to the front, on the right.
I usually tie it snug, and pull down on the ring when done to take the slack out and it is usually works good without further adjustment.

 

[Saddler]

First do the four wraps, cross them over the ring and take them to the back, the hitch on left.
Next cross the two legs and rotate once to make a twist, take the eyes to the front, on the right.
I usually tie it snug, and pull down on the ring when done to take the slack out and it is usually works good without further adjustment.
View attachment 44248

Incredibly helpful. Thank you.

 

[1simplemann]

JFin shows a basic way to use it. The ring and the twist in back, together, allows it to not bind up and can be used to descend. The ring locks in place and can be used to adjust the amount of friction the climber wants. If the ring is close to wraps it grabs reliably, but too close and it is hard to tend, need to find the sweet spot. The ring also keeps the four sections of cord going through it from spreading out, which would lead to binding. These four sections shouldn’t be too close so that the twist doesn’t ride on the rope from using a too small of a ring.
The tender shown can be used without the thimble with just a little more friction while tending.
A tender can also be a part of the hitch. Another option is to use just a piece of cord to tie the hitch with a stopper knot at the end.
View attachment 44175

Brocky, I just tied this hitch in this configuration. I made the ring and bushing out of stuff lying around in the shop. It took a couple of tries to get it right. However once I got it right, this is the best hitch I've tried. It holds "just enough" and tends really well. If I bounce in it, it slips a little but it's like a built in shock absorber. I'm sure if I add a wrap up top it will hold even better

 

[Brocky]

Another wrap would work, but first try to position the ring closer to the wraps when tying. If the ring is closer the hitch it grabs and doesn’t slip, but is a little harder to tend. If the ring is farther down there is easier tending, but might not bite as reliably and you get the slight slippage.

 

[gcr0003]

 

[shmeags]

@Brocky is there an optimal width for the optional tending ring (the smaller ring) in the Sticht hitch? I'm sure it varies based on main rope diameter but is there a rule of thumb like for 11mm rope, the ring should be 11mm wide? Looks like the diameter doesn't matter too much as long as two legs of the hitch cord can fit through it crossed.

 

[Brocky]

As long as they aren’t too thin and might cut through the cord if a wide one was used, something around the size of the rope would work. I make them around 1/2” with rounded edges, I didn’t once and it started cutting the cover on the first use.