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Tree Risk Assessing

TreeRecon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
Messages
272
Disclaimer: This is informational only and not a substitute for actual in-person training. Use these methods at your own risk. Climbing trees is dangerous and could injure or kill you if you're untrained.

Since this is a safety oriented forum, I decided to provide a few tips to those that may be interested.

Trees are living specimens and just like anything else, their viability can change over time. They are susceptible to diseases and environmental conditions. A tree or branch that was solid last season, could have experienced decay since you last used it.

Saddle hunters theoretically don't put a lot of strain on trees. So common sense is usually enough to choose a suitable tree. However, there are some situations where inner decay may be present in the tree, which could mean it could fail without warning

This is not an exhaustive list, but here are some tips that may be helpful:

1. When choosing a tree to hunt from, start by viewing it from a distance. Take note of its lean, canopy health (is there dieback?) and note any hangers or widow makers. Note that trees with crowns that look healthy, can still have inner decay. Don't skip the next steps.

2. Even though this is unlikely in the woods, look for overhead power lines. If any part of them touch the tree, find a different tree. If you hunt from a tree that happens to be near a power line, stay 10' away for voltages up to 72.5kV. Also look for insects or animals
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3. Walk up to the tree. Visibly examine the root structure. The buttress roots should be visible and free of decay. If you notice any upheaving, choose another tree. Examine the root structure for any fruiting bodies (decay). If the root structure isn't visible, you can remove dirt with your hands to examine them.

4. Start examining the base of the tree. Ensure there's appropriate flare. Again, look for the presence of fruiting bodies, missing or loose bark or any insect damage. Certain trees are more prone to infestation or certain insects (ex: Emerald Ash Borer).

5. Speaking of insects, if you see significant insect activity on the tree, choose another tree. Carpenter ants are a telltale sign the tree is under decay

6. Start looking more towards the crown. Look for any co-dominance (weak points), cracks, cankers or hangers. Look for unions and potential areas to tie into
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7. A note on unions: If you find a healthy union you plan on throwing your line into, ensure you're examining the structure below it too. Always tie into the branch collar (the area of the branch closest to the tree)
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Final note: There are a few trees I'd be careful climbing, even if they appear healthy. Reason being is that you'll likely be far away from help. Those trees are: Bradford Pears and Tree of Heaven. I've known guys who have snapped large branches, simply from weight testing them. Don't forget to look around you for trees that could fail and injure you as well.
 
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@TreeRecon that's good info and a good reminder. I couldnt begin to tell you how many times I found the right tree in the right spot only to walk around it and find decay, a hollow hole, etc. in trees that otherwise appeared good and alive. They may have been fine to hunt out of, I'm just not going to be the statistic that tries it.
 
Excellent write up, thank you.

Any comments specifically on beech bark disease?

I kept seeing these fugly beech trees in the mountains and even hunted out of one (where high winds are common)! My main test of "has leaves" was passed !?!?

Anyways, on the way out one time, a bumpy beech that had leaves had just snapped off and blocked the road (recently since I had crossed that area a few hours back). It was pretty thick in diameter and looked fine but a moderate wind snapped it a few feet off the ground.

I then looked some things up and the pucker factor was pretty intense.
 
Excellent write up, thank you.

Any comments specifically on beech bark disease?

I kept seeing these fugly beech trees in the mountains and even hunted out of one (where high winds are common)! My main test of "has leaves" was passed !?!?

Anyways, on the way out one time, a bumpy beech that had leaves had just snapped off and blocked the road (recently since I had crossed that area a few hours back). It was pretty thick in diameter and looked fine but a moderate wind snapped it a few feet off the ground.

I then looked some things up and the pucker factor was pretty intense.
I have no direct experience with that fungi. But that is one reason to look for decay. I forgot to mention that in some climates, fruiting bodies don't show up year round. They are seasonal, so you need to really do a close examination.

Specifically for the beech trees: I would be looking at the entire crown. Are there other limbs that have decay ? Do you see old wounds etc. Past failure of limbs is indicative of future failure. You can do sounding with a rubber mallet. Something you'd want to do offseason, unless you like extra weight :)
 
@TreeRecon that's good info and a good reminder. I couldnt begin to tell you how many times I found the right tree in the right spot only to walk around it and find decay, a hollow hole, etc. in trees that otherwise appeared good and alive. They may have been fine to hunt out of, I'm just not going to be the statistic that tries it.
Another good reason to never choose a tree in the dark
 
I have no direct experience with that fungi. But that is one reason to look for decay. I forgot to mention that in some climates, fruiting bodies don't show up year round. They are seasonal, so you need to really do a close examination.

Specifically for the beech trees: I would be looking at the entire crown. Are there other limbs that have decay ? Do you see old wounds etc. Past failure of limbs is indicative of future failure. You can do sounding with a rubber mallet. Something you'd want to do offseason, unless you like extra weight :)

The ones I see just looked bumpy all under the living bark....like "hey, does that tree have elephantitis?"

No wounds or dead limbs.....just bumpy weird tree.
 
Good info and reminders @TreeRecon . Personally I try my best to avoid any dead or damaged tree. Beyond that I also pay close attention to any obviously dead trees nearby or dead limbs above. While as a whole we are definitely safer strapped to the tree while saddle hunting, the danger of being hit by a falling branch or tree (nearby or the one we're in) actually increases in my mind since we are strapped in position. Its probably my only paranoia about saddle hunting.

In my tree stand days I always figured I could bail out if I saw a nearby tree falling toward me (a broken leg/arm being preferred to being crushed by a tree). Unfortunately that's not an option when you're strapped in position to the trunk of the tree.
 
Good info and reminders @TreeRecon . Personally I try my best to avoid any dead or damaged tree. Beyond that I also pay close attention to any obviously dead trees nearby or dead limbs above. While as a whole we are definitely safer strapped to the tree while saddle hunting, the danger of being hit by a falling branch or tree (nearby or the one we're in) actually increases in my mind since we are strapped in position. Its probably my only paranoia about saddle hunting.

In my tree stand days I always figured I could bail out if I saw a nearby tree falling toward me (a broken leg/arm being preferred to being crushed by a tree). Unfortunately that's not an option when you're strapped in position to the trunk of the tree.

I had a large tree 20 yards away lose a big limb high up....I was behind the trunk of my tree and in my saddle with my little tree as a shield....but it was scary....big enough limb that it would have crushed a person
 
@TreeRecon everything about this is why I believe you and I would be friends lol and this is the type of information people need! Thank you for this post.
I will add on the power line front, if you aren’t familiar with the differences between distribution and transmission voltages in the area, a good rule of thumb is 15 to 20’ away from any lines (and that includes branches. Once electricity reaches those types of high voltage, it can jump pretty scary distances to find a path of ground. You never want to be in between electricity and where it wants to go. All those fires you heard about in California a couple years ago were because they refused to allow the power companies to clear trees that were close to transmission lines, then when a storm happens or an overcurrent situation arises, the voltage flashes onto trees to go to ground. It creates a very fast and extremely hot fire that will burn any dry or dead wood grass and grow out of control within minutes.
 
@TreeRecon everything about this is why I believe you and I would be friends lol and this is the type of information people need! Thank you for this post.
I will add on the power line front, if you aren’t familiar with the differences between distribution and transmission voltages in the area, a good rule of thumb is 15 to 20’ away from any lines (and that includes branches. Once electricity reaches those types of high voltage, it can jump pretty scary distances to find a path of ground. You never want to be in between electricity and where it wants to go. All those fires you heard about in California a couple years ago were because they refused to allow the power companies to clear trees that were close to transmission lines, then when a storm happens or an overcurrent situation arises, the voltage flashes onto trees to go to ground. It creates a very fast and extremely hot fire that will burn any dry or dead wood grass and grow out of control within minutes.
Haha Definitely man! Yea so true on the power. I'm EHAP certified and I still don't go near them
 
@TreeRecon everything about this is why I believe you and I would be friends lol and this is the type of information people need! Thank you for this post.
I will add on the power line front, if you aren’t familiar with the differences between distribution and transmission voltages in the area, a good rule of thumb is 15 to 20’ away from any lines (and that includes branches. Once electricity reaches those types of high voltage, it can jump pretty scary distances to find a path of ground. You never want to be in between electricity and where it wants to go. All those fires you heard about in California a couple years ago were because they refused to allow the power companies to clear trees that were close to transmission lines, then when a storm happens or an overcurrent situation arises, the voltage flashes onto trees to go to ground. It creates a very fast and extremely hot fire that will burn any dry or dead wood grass and grow out of control within minutes.
One of my buddies is an arborist in Canada. Some guy in his town was working near a primary and was untrained. The electricity did exactly what you described. Supposedly the voltage exited his body in the worse possible place it could for a man. He has a missing "member" due to it.
 
My brother once climbed a small tree along the driveway to do some pruning. The branch that needed pruned wasn't very high so he just climbed with a small ladder and then stepped out onto a small branch. His body weight made the branch droop and it made light contact with a power line (that wasn't strung very high). He said he started getting a mild shock. Not horrible but he said it scared the crap out of him. He was afraid to move for fear of the branch making better contact and sending more voltage his way. He contemplated jumping.
 
@TreeRecon everything about this is why I believe you and I would be friends lol and this is the type of information people need! Thank you for this post.
I will add on the power line front, if you aren’t familiar with the differences between distribution and transmission voltages in the area, a good rule of thumb is 15 to 20’ away from any lines (and that includes branches. Once electricity reaches those types of high voltage, it can jump pretty scary distances to find a path of ground. You never want to be in between electricity and where it wants to go. All those fires you heard about in California a couple years ago were because they refused to allow the power companies to clear trees that were close to transmission lines, then when a storm happens or an overcurrent situation arises, the voltage flashes onto trees to go to ground. It creates a very fast and extremely hot fire that will burn any dry or dead wood grass and grow out of control within minutes.

Tangent....but if the voltage is high enough and on the ground....if you run from it then your 2 legs are far enough apart to make a voltage difference and it will arc through your body to jump from one spot on the ground to the next....we had to watch a video at work on it....so take baby steps away (downright shuffle away...which would be hard to do) from a downed line near you so that the voltage difference is so small that it "prefers" to travel through the ground

with high temperature, high voltage, high pressures, etc....our normal everyday common sense just doesn't work anymore at times
 
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@TreeRecon maybe if you have some more info on maples. I have several in the yard. One has sap leaking out from what looks like a big crack in it. But still holding on.
Winds have taken tops out of others. Expecially when wet and full. They give lots of cover for hunting. But I know they can be soft and rot easily.
 
Tangent....but if the voltage is high enough and on the ground....if you run from it then your 2 legs are far enough apart to make a voltage difference and it will arc through your body to jump from one spot on the ground to the next....we had to watch a video at work on it....so take baby steps away (downright shuffle away...which would be hard to do) from a downed line near you so that the voltage difference is so small that it "prefers" to travel through the ground

with high temperature, high voltage, high pressures, etc....our normal everyday common sense just doesn't work anymore at times
Yes sir in substations all steps should be extremely small and you never touch any structures because of potential differences. Of course we aren’t allowed to carry anything over our shoulders or point up either in substations or switch yards.
 
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