Treebolts revisited

[WHW]

I need a sling like that for my drill. That would be a real difference maker. What are you using there for a sling?

You can use any kind of webbing or even a length of small diameter rope. Just something to support the drill motor to be hands free for climbing. I drilled my first three trees of the season today. Will probably have about 20 drilled by the time the season opens on October 1.

 

[PJC]

You can use any kind of webbing or even a length of small diameter rope. Just something to support the drill motor to be hands free for climbing. I drilled my first three trees of the season today. Will probably have about 20 drilled by the time the season opens on October 1.

That's cool. I drilled another tree today and I always hook the drill on one of my pockets but I've dropped it a couple times. I saw your sling and I wonder why the heck I've never thought of that. Duh!


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[denots]

I don't think using bolts with aider would it be much different than BCSportsman(I think that's who did it) did using the Cranford rope on steps with an aider. You just be drilling the tree and putting the bolt instead of putting a rope on step. I think it would be safe as long as your weight is on the bolt. My biggest concern would be coming down and accidentally pulling the bolt out a little bit before you put weight into the aider.

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[rabidd099]

A Life-Time review of the EZ Kut hand drill (the tools life not mine)-

Durability - lasted me about 5-6 seasons before the body of the drill failed. Failed point was the bolt hole for the drill bit, the hole started to get bigger with use allowing the bolt to move around more and this year the body bent, due partly to that, at the hole while prepping a maple this season. If I babied it it would have probably lasted a few more climbs but it was doomed to fail and I wasn't going to let that be on a hunt so, last night I got a piece of 1in scrap tubing with a thicker wall to replace it. Even though it will be a little heavier it should last much longer, I also made the drill body about an inch longer than the original for more leverage. The larger tubing also leaves room to plasti-dip the body and still have room to fold up and unfold the bit without the opening becoming too narrow. The only item other than the body I couldn't use was the bolt for the drill bit as I had to replace it with a longer one for the wider thicker tube. At 60 bucks I originally thought it was a overpriced but since it lasted so long it's about 10 bucks a season and everything but the body was salvageable and the bit itself is still in great shape. However, 60 bucks still seemed like a lot to replace it especially after making a replacement over the course of a few cold ones, in the end its 2 bolts, a bit, handle and cut metal tube. For that price they should come silenced with plastic washers and dipped or wrapped.

Weight and Packability - The best especially if you get those carbon fiber bolts newly discovered. The only other climbing option that gets close in this category is spurs or rope climbing and they aren't as easy to throw in any small pocket.

Use - Defiantly not the fastest method at the tree if a new set up, but if you inculde how much quicker you can more through the woods and still be quite and not getting sticks caught on brush or clanging metal walking in it probably evens out. On pre-drilled trees, you can climb as fast as you can find your holes. It defiantly requires work and you may sweat, but for me here in NC I'll be sweating anyway until mid or late Oct so that part isnt an issue for me. And of course it isn't legal in every location so that is a consideration.

 

[Nutterbuster]

E

A Life-Time review of the EZ Kut hand drill (the tools life not mine)-

Durability - lasted me about 5-6 seasons before the body of the drill failed. Failed point was the bolt hole for the drill bit, the hole started to get bigger with use allowing the bolt to move around more and this year the body bent, due partly to that, at the hole while prepping a maple this season. If I babied it it would have probably lasted a few more climbs but it was doomed to fail and I wasn't going to let that be on a hunt so, last night I got a piece of 1in scrap tubing with a thicker wall to replace it. Even though it will be a little heavier it should last much longer, I also made the drill body about an inch longer than the original for more leverage. The larger tubing also leaves room to plasti-dip the body and still have room to fold up and unfold the bit without the opening becoming too narrow. The only item other than the body I couldn't use was the bolt for the drill bit as I had to replace it with a longer one for the wider thicker tube. At 60 bucks I originally thought it was a overpriced but since it lasted so long it's about 10 bucks a season and everything but the body was salvageable and the bit itself is still in great shape. However, 60 bucks still seemed like a lot to replace it especially after making a replacement over the course of a few cold ones, in the end its 2 bolts, a bit, handle and cut metal tube. For that price they should come silenced with plastic washers and dipped or wrapped.

Weight and Packability - The best especially if you get those carbon fiber bolts newly discovered. The only other climbing option that gets close in this category is spurs or rope climbing and they aren't as easy to throw in any small pocket.

Use - Defiantly not the fastest method at the tree if a new set up, but if you inculde how much quicker you can more through the woods and still be quite and not getting sticks caught on brush or clanging metal walking in it probably evens out. On pre-drilled trees, you can climb as fast as you can find your holes. It defiantly requires work and you may sweat, but for me here in NC I'll be sweating anyway until mid or late Oct so that part isnt an issue for me. And of course it isn't legal in every location so that is a consideration.

Excellent review, and pretty much 100% in line with my findings. I wish the unit was more robust. I was THIS CLOSE to buying an older woodpecker drill, but somebody (@Vtbow, cough cough) beat me to the punch while I was dilly-dallying and asking for pictures. Guess I'll have to ask him how it stacks up quality-wise.

I agree that while it takes more time for initial setup, the fact that you can fit everything in a cargo pocket and just GO through the woods balances it out. You can immediately walk up to the tree and start drilling, with very little unpacking time. And once it's drilled, it's good for the season.

I want to add that it is HANDS DOWN the safest-feeling climbing method I have found. The bolts are rock solid underfoot, and you do the have to worry about dangling from an aider, gaffing out, or not camming something over properly. Grade 8 steel is not breaking, regardless of how heavy duty you are. I believe the same applies to the carbon fiber, bit I won't know for sure until Monday.

 

[Bruce G]

Thanks guys. Another $100 purchase coming up. This should work great for the way I hunt. Light weight, compact, inexpensive and easy to use. Thanks for the videos and all the info on this thread.

 

[Bruce G]

I will be ordering the hand drill and drill bit tomorrow. Am I looking for grade 8, 3/8” 6 inch bolts? Just want to make sure I get this right.

 

[Piney]

Best deal I've seen on grade 8 bolts.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-50-3-8...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[PJC]

I've made this purchase before. I leave my bolts in the trees I prep so I go through a lot of them. I only take out the bottom 4.


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[Drslyr]

You are correct Bruce

 

[PJC]

I will be ordering the hand drill and drill bit tomorrow. Am I looking for grade 8, 3/8” 6 inch bolts? Just want to make sure I get this right.

Yup


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[noxninja]

Flashlight

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take small dowels cut to length of bolts place piece of reflective tape on end

 

[Bruce G]

Ordered the hand drill as well as 50 bolts from eBay. Piney...thank you for the link to the bolts. Only thing I would like to get is the drill bit. Didn’t see it on the web site. I left them a message hopefully I can add and combine orders. Can’t wait to give this a shot.

 

[GBlevins92]

take small dowels cut to length of bolts place piece of reflective tape on end

I don’t use bolts yet but I’m sure I will since I’ve been sucked into ever climbing method on here but that one.... I’m not a golfer but I would venture to say somewhere out there glow in the dark golf tees exist and could be a cheap and effective strategy.


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[IkemanTX]

Thanks guys. Another $100 purchase coming up. This should work great for the way I hunt. Light weight, compact, inexpensive and easy to use. Thanks for the videos and all the info on this thread.

You can’t complain when you voluntarily joined the addiction... lol
I do warn most new guys in their intro thread...


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[rabidd099]

What’s everyones techniques for finding the bolt holes in the dark? Reflective tack, ribbon? I think day time would be alright, but not so easy in the dark.

I use a constant distance. I measure with my elbow resting on my last step to finger tips + about 2inches, when I drill which is also about knee height on me. So every step is a little over 2’ tall. I also put them in at a V (about 90 to 160 degrees spread from each bolt) instead of a T (180 degrees) so the holes are facing me somewhat.

Sounds complex but after the first couple of trees each season it's muscle memory again and can just eyeball the distance.

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[IkemanTX]

It really does become second nature. Give it 8-10 trees and it will become a no-brainer. Consistency is key.


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[rabidd099]

Set one tree up today. Not crazy about my lineman’s belt hitting the bolts. It was very odd and a little discouraging. Like the idea behind it but just don’t think it’s doable with a lineman belt.

I do 2 things to keep this from happening:

First, if I am setting a new tree I don't use my linesman's belt but use my tether, except to pass limbs. It is much more comfortable as you only use the bolt your standing on as a positioning point so your feet don't hurt from standing on a narrow bolt. It also pulls you to the tree instead of bending at the waist to keep your lineman's belt tight which is helpful when starting the bit. It makes you more likely to slow down a touch and not rush things since your feet aren't aching and your not feeling the pinching you hips sitting back on the lineman's belt.

Two, I'm normally drilling the step 2nd above the one im standing on if I'm using a lineman's belt instead of the tether so you can put the bolt in at your knee hole below your belt. If you aren't a fan of that you can pull the belt up and over the top step (going up) and flip your belt up as you step up so hold the rope instead of the tree preferably with both hands two flip but if your not comfortable with that use the hand on the side of the top bolt so you don't step on the belt as you climb.

So I basically don't use my belt unless it limby, if it's really limby I use my tether as a second lineman's belt and combo bolts steps with limb steps.

Coming down I use my belt and let the belt drop to the top step by hold my body closer to the tree as I step down. Than I pulled the bolt it's resting on and repeat. It's almost like free climbing down with a safety.

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[rabidd099]

EZKUT just sent me an email they have a 30% off coupon right now so drill is $18 off. Code is "harvest"

If I had not just made my own replacement body I would definitely buy it again...might anyway as a spare.

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[rabidd099]

So here is the (about to) failure point and my diy drill improved with thicker walled pipe, wider opening for future plasti-dip, and an ~1in longer for more torque in hardwoods. Only thing it is missing is some spacers to keep drill centered in tube. I'll probably dip the drill to the top of the drill folding area and spray paint the last inch a bright color in case I drop it I think black is the color of dip I can find around plus I need to dip some spare bolts, lost one last season in the evening. I always pull out.

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