kobudo
Well-Known Member
First video try, it is a little rough.
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Will do.If possible, when you get the belt ironed out, could you post your DIY solution? I tried one stick climbing today and I had to quit because of the top falling down. I did not feel safe, the saddle kept sliding down.
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Thanks for the vids.
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Thank you for the clarification. It looks like you guys worked very hard on this, and I appreciate that. It was very comfortable in the tree. I look forward to the small tweaks! If we keep up this great conversation, I am sure we will have a winner!Thanks for the vids.
Let me explain a few things that may make this easier for guys.
1st... Picking the sling up. Just grab it by the bridge and hold it it arms length and is hangs down organized and easy to visualize.
2nd... Those stitches on the sides are mostly for manufacturing purposes but they do help to keep the straps from twisting and getting really goofed up
(when its not worn). But I discovered that they are also good "locator" indicators. Line them up evenly on each side with the plates before you put it on and all the straps will be even and in place.
I suggested to Mark that he change the color of those stitches so they contrast with the webbing so they can be seen easier. Those stitches ensure you have it on straight. Don't remove those stitches.
3rd...I visited Mark yesterday and we worked on the belt for 4 hours. We came up with 2 solutions. He is getting the materials together and will have this corrected quickly. Both solutions work well but Im convinced that one of the fixes will actually improve the original Anderson design. I confess, the belt on the Anderson was something I always thought needed tweaked.
Ive heard a few guys say it sagged when walking. Thats probably because of a combination of 2 things the sling is slightly uncentered on those plates which causes the straps to not fully pull tight and even. But its also due to the belt. Im convinced the belt is being corrected as I type this.
The leg straps are ok for short walks but its probably best to just clip them behind you until you climb.
Where to place the main straps...
The upper straps do work as a LOW back support but they probably fell right if you try to pull it up high. Its more of a lumbar support, which does help the entire back.
Tether height...I think the sling works best with a low tether which is a good thing. A low tether pulls the sling's straps thru the plates in a more natural position. For me, in this sling, a low tether is what I want for comfort and it also lends itself to better handling of my bow.
I still intend to make a video, but I'm waiting for Mark to send the new belt rig to me so Give me another week or so.
Does that make your top half stay snug?I've been using my th sling to take down my presets. I moded the belt (which i know mark is working on a better solutin) and I couldn't be happier. Super comfortable, versatile minimalist saddle, with great cs, coming from the owner himself. He gives a crap and wants things to work best possible for his customers. Stand up guy and company. Here's a pic of my easy mod.
View attachment 22689
Yes, you'll notice the triglide are doubled back so the webbing can't slip though it. I do all rhe adjustment at rhe buckle. When I start to hang in the bridge, I just angle the buckle to lose it to the desired width to eliminate hip pinch.Does that make your top half stay snug?
Any chance you could do a video to show how you did that? I would like to see how all the webbings are running?Yes, you'll notice the triglide are doubled back so the webbing can't slip though it. I do all rhe adjustment at rhe buckle. When I start to hang in the bridge, I just angle the buckle to lose it to the desired width to eliminate hip pinch.