Whats your preferred tuning method?

[Black Titan]

In the process of getting my Elite Enkore back into tune after getting it dipped and new strings. Was just curious what everyone here likes to do when tuning their bows. I have a pretty lengthy process, but I'm also OCD about stuff like this.

I start with a nock tuned bareshaft in the same diameter as my chosen arrow shafts. I then paper tune with this bareshaft at 6 yards until I get a perfect bullet hole. Any big tears get shims moved. Small tears or fine tuning is done with a combination of rest movements, SET tuning, and LTR adjustment.

After I can consistently shoot that bullet hole at 6 yards, I move back to 10 yards looking for the same bullet hole. Most of the time it's the same, but sometimes it requires slight adjustment.

At this point I begin nock tuning my new arrow shafts. I start with the nock liked up with the "spine alignment" mark, shoot the bareshaft through paper, and if it's not a bullet hole I'll turn the nock 90 degrees and shoot again. Rinse and repeat until all shafts are shooting bullet holes. This is to tune the dynamic spine of the arrow shaft. Yes, the arrows come "spine aligned" but once you cut that shaft, add weight to the front and back, and shoot it through a bow, the dynamic spine comes into play. I want each arrow in my set leaving my bow string with flight that is as straight as possible.

After nock tuning, I will fletch 11 of my 12 arrow shafts, aligning my cock vane with my mark from nock tuning, and then begin bareshaft tuning at 20 yards. With slight rest movements and SET adjustments, I get my bareshafts hitting with my fletched arrows at 20 yards.

At this point, 9 times out of 10, a broadhead will hit dead on with a fieldpoint, with sometimes only a slight variation, usually 1/2" to an inch low.

Here's some pics of the process, first pic is initial tuning of a bareshaft, after first shot was a shim movement. Shots 3-5 were small changes to the SET tech and rest movements. Second pic is 3 examples of nock tuning a bareshaft. Between each shot is a small twist of the nock. I didn't believe in nock tuning till I saw the results for myself. Then third pic is a fletched through paper.

Last pic shows a broadhead with same POI as a fieldpoint, and the hole from a bareshaft right beside the fieldpoint arrow on bottom. (Yes I know it's not the center of the target, I save sight adjustments for the last step after I know my arrows are tuned.)







BT

 

[Horn]

What kind of paper are you using?

 

[Black Titan]

What kind of paper are you using?

White butcher paper. I tried some cheap brown stuff from the paint section at lowes, but it was too thin and tore too easy. Also tried wax paper, which I felt was too thick. This stuff seems to be just right and shows good details on the tears.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08VWWS84D?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

BT

 

[raisins]

I shoot bareshafts through paper at random distances (6 feet to 7 yards probably) and keep at it until the tear looks perfect.

I then shoot fletched and bare shafts at 25 yards and get those flying together (but never shooting at the same dot as to avoid arrow damage).

Then I tune fletched field points and broadheads to hit to same point at 40 yards (again, different dots).

Then I'm done. If I do my first paper tune very well, then sometimes it's done and my other steps just confirm it.

I cut from each side of my arrow shafts and square both ends and the insert after install, use good pin nocks, and fletch so that weak side is up (arrow will want to bend upward at the shot). I also use a premium shaft (GT Ultralight Pros). I've never had to nock tune. All my arrows shoot nearly identical and the precision I'd gain is so negligible that I don't find it worth my time to pursue.

 

[Black Titan]

I shoot bareshafts through paper at random distances (6 feet to 7 yards probably) and keep at it until the tear looks perfect.

I then shoot fletched and bare shafts at 25 yards and get those flying together (but never shooting at the same dot as to avoid arrow damage).

Then I tune fletched field points and broadheads to hit to same point at 40 yards (again, different dots).

Then I'm done. If I do my first paper tune very well, then sometimes it's done and my other steps just confirm it.

I cut from each side of my arrow shafts and square both ends and the insert after install, use good pin nocks, and fletch so that weak side is up (arrow will want to bend upward at the shot). I also use a premium shaft (GT Ultralight Pros). I've never had to nock tune. All my arrows shoot nearly identical and the precision I'd gain is so negligible that I don't find it worth my time to pursue.

Shooting at different dots - Yes! After my first Robin hood and ruining 2 expensive arrows I learned to do this haha.

I see similar results after the first paper tune. If it's done right, those results carry on to the rest of the tuning.

I've always just cut from the front of my shafts, but this batch I will cut from both ends. Meant to do that on my last batch but got excited to try my new arrow saw and cut all 3 inches off the front of my first arrow, so just did the rest to match it.

How do you like the pin nocks? I use them on my target bow but have been hesitant to put them on any hunting arrows.

BT

 

[raisins]

Shooting at different dots - Yes! After my first Robin hood and ruining 2 expensive arrows I learned to do this haha.

I see similar results after the first paper tune. If it's done right, those results carry on to the rest of the tuning.

I've always just cut from the front of my shafts, but this batch I will cut from both ends. Meant to do that on my last batch but got excited to try my new arrow saw and cut all 3 inches off the front of my first arrow, so just did the rest to match it.

How do you like the pin nocks? I use them on my target bow but have been hesitant to put them on any hunting arrows.

BT

I'll caveat the cutting thing....the best way, I think, is spin each shaft and then cut from the wobbly side....but if they all spin well, then I do half off each end (the middle is usually the straightest and the straightness measure is the middle part and neglects the ends)

if the off center arrow labels bug you, then just wipe them off with acetone on a rag (what i do and I like the looks better anyways)

I love pin nocks for everything and these are the best I've found

Beiter Pin Nock

The first asymmetric pin nock Fits precisely on all pins, can be used with any arrow that utilizes a pin bushing Highest precision and lowest tolerances, every nock size is made from the same mold Asymmetrical design does not pinch the nocking point Size: #1 Asymmetric - Small Groove (.088"); #2...

lancasterarchery.com

I just get the regular Hunter option. You can send one to your string builder and they should be able to match your serving diameter to it (twisted x bowstrings has these and most common nocks on hand and you can tell them to make it for that nock)

 

[Halfstep]

I paper tune a fletched arrow from a few different distances. Then I fine tune with bare shaft at 20 yards getting bare shaft to group with fletched shafts. Then I check to see if the broadheads are shooting like they should and they always do since I hunt with Magnus Stingers 2 blade heads.

I shoot Carbon Express Maximas and they are very consistent shafts. When I buy a dozen, I will nock tune them out of my Hooter Shooter at 40 yards and get them dialed in to sub 2 inches.

The things once can learn and experience with a Hooter Shooter is priceless. People would be surprised on how some carbons can't be dialed in to shoot very tight groups. I've shot some carbons thru the Hooter Shooter and could only get them tune in to a 6-inch group at 40 yards.

 

[Plebe]

I paper tune a fletched arrow from a few different distances. Then I fine tune with bare shaft at 20 yards getting bare shaft to group with fletched shafts. Then I check to see if the broadheads are shooting like they should and they always do since I hunt with Magnus Stingers 2 blade heads.

I shoot Carbon Express Maximas and they are very consistent shafts. When I buy a dozen, I will nock tune them out of my Hooter Shooter at 40 yards and get them dialed in to sub 2 inches.

The things once can learn and experience with a Hooter Shooter is priceless. People would be surprised on how some carbons can't be dialed in to shoot very tight groups. I've shot some carbons thru the Hooter Shooter and could only get them tune in to a 6-inch group at 40 yards.

What are those few distances you prefer for paper tuning fletched?

 

[woodsdog2]

This is my exact process with the exception of the bare shaft nock tuning thru paper part. I used to do it this way and it works great but was somewhat time consuming. I now use a spine tester and align the nock index mark 90 degrees to the cock feather which is up on the “bump” I feel when rotating the shaft on the spine tester. If that makes sense.

It was interesting to read that you still had to shim your bow somewhat for macro tears and just use the SET technology for micro tears. I assumed you didn’t have to shim anymore with these newer integral tuning systems built into the bows.

 

[woodsdog2]

White butcher paper. I tried some cheap brown stuff from the paint section at lowes, but it was too thin and tore too easy. Also tried wax paper, which I felt was too thick. This stuff seems to be just right and shows good details on the tears.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08VWWS84D?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

BT

This is exactly what I use as well. Have for years. I believe it gives better results and doesn’t tear as easily as newspaper etc.

 

[Black Titan]

It was interesting to read that you still had to shim your bow somewhat for macro tears and just use the SET technology for micro tears. I assumed you didn’t have to shim anymore with these newer integral tuning systems built into the bows.

It depends I guess. There's been quite a few instances with Elite anyways where shimming has been required. I can get rid of my tear with the SET tech, but its maxed out to one side. I don't like running it that way. So I choose to shim. Normally it's as simple as swapping one shim from one side of the cam to the other. This has been my experience with Elite. Bowtechs Deadlock system may be different.

I don't mind the nock tuning. I usually spread it out over a few sessions. May do 3 arrows today, 3 tomorrow, 2 the next day, etc. It's all part of the process, and I enjoy that aspect of it. The tinkering, adjusting, minute details, etc. Truth be told I probably can't shoot the difference between a nock tuned arrow and one that just has the nock thrown in, but I can at least eliminate one more variable.

I've read about the spine testers, and have considered looking into it, but they're pricey! I've seen where some will put a divot in their press arms and squeeze the arrow that way with a field tip in each end. I may try that and compare my findings.

BT

 

[raisins]

This is my exact process with the exception of the bare shaft nock tuning thru paper part. I used to do it this way and it works great but was somewhat time consuming. I now use a spine tester and align the nock index mark 90 degrees to the cock feather which is up on the “bump” I feel when rotating the shaft on the spine tester. If that makes sense.

It was interesting to read that you still had to shim your bow somewhat for macro tears and just use the SET technology for micro tears. I assumed you didn’t have to shim anymore with these newer integral tuning systems built into the bows.

The SET system doesn't allow as much adjustment as the Deadlock. I don't think you can shim the Deadlock, but it obviously has a lot of travel.

 

[Camelcluch]

Bare shaft out to 40. Paper tune and end with broadheads. I use big fixed blades or heads that are notoriously hard to tune. I will shoot the broadheads out to 80 yards trying to see the imperfections. When broadheads group and hit with fieldpoints I’m done.

 

[Black Titan]

Bare shaft out to 40. Paper tune and end with broadheads. I use big fixed blades or heads that are notoriously hard to tune. I will shoot the broadheads out to 80 yards trying to see the imperfections. When broadheads group and hit with fieldpoints I’m done.

You must be doing something right! I stumbled across that long range thread earlier and saw some of your 100+ yard groups. Holy cow, man!

BT

 

[Halfstep]

What are those few distances you prefer for paper tuning fletched?

I start at about 1 yard from the paper to see how the arrow is leaving the bow. Then I move back 5 yards and check flight and then 10 yards. I look at all the holes and then make my adjustments based on that.

 

[raisins]

You must be doing something right! I stumbled across that long range thread earlier and saw some of your 100+ yard groups. Holy cow, man!

BT

He's a beast if he can bareshaft tune at 40 yards. It is ultra sensitive to form, trigger control, and wind. For that reason, a lot of folks skip right to broadhead tuning.

 

[Halfstep]

This is exactly what I use as well. Have for years. I believe it gives better results and doesn’t tear as easily as newspaper etc.

I use a masking paper that is fairly thick. Something like this, https://www.harborfreight.com/15-inch-x-60-yards-masking-paper-98147.html or https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-x-60-yards-masking-paper-98149.html

 

[woodsdog2]

[QUOTE="Black Titan, post: 824445, member: 32227"

I've read about the spine testers, and have considered looking into it, but they're pricey! I've seen where some will put a divot in their press arms and squeeze the arrow that way with a field tip in each end. I may try that and compare my findings.

BT
[/QUOTE]
I bought one used on here at significantly less cost. It also doubles as a spinner.

 

[Black Titan]

He's a beast if he can bareshaft tune at 40 yards. It is ultra sensitive to form, trigger control, and wind. For that reason, a lot of folks skip right to broadhead tuning.

I haven't tried bareshafting that far but now I want to!

BT

 

[Still Kicking]

I use fully fletched shafts with Lumenock and broadheads and throw them by hand from 2 feet to 25 yards until happy with the grouping before getting the recurve out.
Seriously, I just shoot a bunch of arrows while adjusting EVERYTHING hundreds of times and starting over often.