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Why an adjustable bridge?

Tom Karrow

Tom Karrow

Active Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2017
Messages
170
Location
Ontario
So I've been at this for a few years now thanks to Ontario hunter. I have a very comfy kestrel.

I'm wondering why there is so much hype around an adjustable bridge. I think mine came with one when I bought it along with a biner on the opposite side. I can hardly remember though as I removed the biner and put figures 8's on either side to make it a fixed bridge. I never feel the need to adjust it... it is is perfect as it is. I may switch it to oplux as I did with my LMB and tether (they are outstanding in oplux from DanO btw) but why need an adjusting bridge?

Tom
 
I think it’s just another level of adjustability that lets you dial your saddle comfort it. I added a prusik to my mantis and found a shorter than stock bridge to be more comfortable.
 
Because I SRT and rappel. I prefer a short bridge for going up and coming down and a slightly longer bridge for actually hunting. I am currently just running two fixed webbing bridges and it’s fine. I will mess around with the Phantom style adjustable Amsteel now just because of the weight savings and because I like to tinker.


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I experimented with the whoopie sling bridge but didn't care your it and built the fixed bridge at my sweet spot.... If I ever felt the need for an adjustment because of tree lean or other conditions I'd just repurpose my linesman's belt and use it as an adjustable bridge. I think it's just personal preference or it's needed for climbing method.... For me it was just one more thing to fiddle with
 
I shorten mine all the way up for the walk in. Keeps it out of the way and acts like a second belt.

When I one stick, I loosen it a little but keep it real short. That way, my carabiner stays close to my body and is less likely to clank off of my stick while climbing.

When I get to hunting height, I lengthen it to my desired comfort zone depending on the tree. (Lean, branches, etc)

It offers so much versatility and adjustability, I don't understand why anyone would want a fixed bridge...
 
Oh, and I change up the length depending on what I am hunting with...

Bow - Short bridge, low tether. That way the bridge isn't in the way of my draw...

Gun - Longer bridge, higher tether. That way I can use the bridge as a rest if need be...
 
I had a tree I hunted when I went mobile, that had a bulge right where my at the height I needed to be at.having an adjustable bridge and tether allowed me to hunt it at the height I needed to be at..without any compromise on comfort. I will say I did shorten the bridge rope that came with the saddle as it was way to long ,,, but left enough for adjustability.
 
I tied accessory cord onto one bridge loop to make my bridge adjustable, however, once I found the sweet spot, I haven't touched it. If I need to make any adjustments because of the tree, I adjust my tether. I've found that the stock tether on the Mantis was too short, while the stock tether on the Kite was a little long. Sold the Mantis, made the bridge on the Kite adjustable and really dialed it in. I found that I do prefer a bridge that is a little longer than most guys on here seem to run.
 
IMO the adjustable bridge is only needed when first setting up the saddle and trying to figure out how long of bridge length is needed to avoid hip pinch. Once thats dialed in, the adjustable bridge is really no longer needed. I run a fixed 18” amsteel bridge myself.
 
Weldabeast said:
I experimented with the whoopie sling bridge but didn't care your it and built the fixed bridge at my sweet spot.... If I ever felt the need for an adjustment because of tree lean or other conditions I'd just repurpose my linesman's belt and use it as an adjustable bridge. I think it's just personal preference or it's needed for climbing method.... For me it was just one more thing to fiddle with
Click to expand...

The problem with the whoopie sling is the bury in the middle of the sling. It presented the same issue Tethrd has talked about with a fixed bridge; in order to have a certain length bury, you need to have a bridge of 2X the buried length, plus loops. Using the phantom's bridge you eliminate the bury concern since the bury is the length of the bridge.

NikoTheBowHunter said:
IMO the adjustable bridge is only needed when first setting up the saddle and trying to figure out how long of bridge length is needed to avoid hip pinch. Once thats dialed in, the adjustable bridge is really no longer needed. I run a fixed 18” amsteel bridge myself.
Click to expand...

A fixed bridge is perfect for hanging in the tree so I 100% agree with this, but the adjustability is required for SRT. I also like the idea of being able to sinch it down when walking around.
 
Trophylines come with an adjustable bridge, but it is not a feature I use except for tightening as a waist belt for the walk in. I do not need to adjust in a tree. I'm pretty tolerant of bridge lengths.

I don't think I'd want to use a rope bridge as a waist belt due to comfort reasons. The trophyline bridge/belt works because it is 2" webbing and distributes the weight of the saddle and whatever you have on it well.
 
I bought mine from someone and he put a prusik on the bridge. It has helped so much if there was some reason my tether was not in the perfect location or if I wanted to lean or sit more.
 
aahyut said:
The problem with the whoopie sling is the bury in the middle of the sling. It presented the same issue Tethrd has talked about with a fixed bridge; in order to have a certain length bury, you need to have a bridge of 2X the buried length, plus loops. Using the phantom's bridge you eliminate the bury concern since the bury is the length of the bridge.



A fixed bridge is perfect for hanging in the tree so I 100% agree with this, but the adjustability is required for SRT. I also like the idea of being able to sinch it down when walking around.
Click to expand...
If you connect the leg straps behind your legs when walking in, all ya need is the main belt of the saddle. Once I started connecting my leg straps behind my legs for the walk in, not once have I had to deal with it falling down.
 
1) I like it because I can set my tether wherever and not think about in and not have to take weight off it to adjust.

2) For one sticking, its easy to let some slack out after I move my tether up or I can move my tether up very high without any worry of not being able to get down and get my stick.

3) Its nice when I rappel because I can shorten my bridge without carrying any other equipment.

4) It functions as a second linesman belt...without me needing to carry one.

5) It is easily fine tuned for comfort.
 
Why all the hype? Honestly I think it’s because a marketing spotlight has been shined on it for the lowest common denominator to see.

We are in the know on adjustable bridges but there is a whole Facebook world out there full of people that are hesitant to tie their own knots much less touch something that isn’t manufactured and wrapped in plastic, and ready to use.

This saddle is trying to accommodate for the masses which paired with their hands on seminar is pretty dang smart business wise.


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I prefer an adjustable bridge to cinch it down tight for hiking. That's it for me. I like a shorter bridge but a few inches either way don't seem to make a comfort difference. One of those small details I certainly don't need, but now that I have it I sure don't want to get rid of it.
 
I find it comical that a new saddle is coming out with an adjustable bridge and everyone is tripping over themselves splicing amsteel and converting their saddles to mimic the latest model. I can understand the new guys thinking they absolutely need one because they have very little saddle time but I'm a little surprised by the reaction of the seasoned veterans here. I thought you guys would've had your gear and comfort issues dialed in by now.
I run two oplux bridges, the longer one to hunt on and the shorter to rappel. Is there a weight penalty, if you count every ounce then yes but if 6 ounces puts you over the edge... Walking in I tuck them both under the waist belt which keeps them out of the way. I've hunted all types of trees including some moderate leaners and never felt I needed adjustability other than adjusting my tether height at the initial setup. I really believe I have my system dialed in.
The more I think about the more I realize
I must be immune to S.H.E.M.S.
Be safe with your mods and test extensively at ground level.
 
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