• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Knaider/Swaider tutorial

Country said:
Hi @Peterk1234 ...I was wondering if those webbing adjusters are weight rated? What are your thoughts on them possibly breaking? Thanks
Click to expand...
I was using four of these from Strapworks on a no sew setup. After one climb all four had bent bars in the middle. Some worse than others. They look just like the photo he attached only it was all of the middle bars.

I believe I'm quite a bit heavier than @Peterk1234 at 215 lbs. I also may have woven mine differently through the adjusters.

I don't know if they would break under continued use or not. I removed them immediately and went with a Water Knot method that doesn't need adjusters or sewing. A bit of a pain to get the aiders sized right while knotting but doable.

Food for thought.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I should mention that I am 175 pounds. Sewing is the way to go for sure if you want piece of mind. I am amazed at how strong the stitches are with a speedy stitcher. They may not look like it but I make "x stitches. I think it is called a cross stitch, but do not quote me on it. I read somewhere it is one of the strongest stitches in sewing. Three rows of those have been rock solid.

BTW, I believe the bend you see is because of the thickness of the doubled up webbing going through the adjusters. I am using tubular webbing. I suspect it would be less with flat webbing. Someone I am sure can confirm because I think many of the folks here are using flat webbing.

I just ordered some stainless steel webbing sliders. I will test them out and see if there is a way to use them without sewing. It may give you heavier guys some better results and piece of mind. I will keep you posted. Pete
 
Last edited:
donnieballgame said:
Here's the fancy version.

https://buckinghammfg.com/products/treesqueeze-7l08t18j/

Photo is the poor man's version that I use.
d9cc843a60d8b9c80ca34b3d25d09238.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thx
So LB replacement? Or in addition to it? From reading a little of that Buckingham description do you more or less climb with lineman’s then at desired height hookup the squeeze so you can setup platform etc or have treesueeze attatched throughout climb?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Peterk1234 said:
I should mention that I am 175 pounds. Sewing is the way to go for sure if you want piece of mind. I am amazed at how strong the stitches are with a speedy stitcher. They may not look like it but I make "x stitches. I think it is called a cross stitch, but do not quote me on it. I read somewhere it is one of the strongest stitches in sewing. Three rows of those have been rock solid.

BTW, I believe the bend you see is because of the thickness of the doubled up webbing going through the adjusters. I am using tubular webbing. I suspect it would be less with flat webbing. Someone I am sure can confirm because I think many of the folks here are using flat webbing.

I just ordered some stainless steel webbing sliders. I will test them out and see if there is a way to use them without sewing. It may give you heavier guys some better results and piece of mind. I will keep you posted. Pete
Click to expand...
The type of webbing is something to consider for sure. I use tubular also. Curious if flat works better.

If the slides you mention are the ones from Strapworks I tried those on my first no sew iteration. I bought the rounded edge ones. They bent and snapped on the first climb. Again, bigger guy at 215.

Figured I'd share my results. Sewing or Water Knots seem to be the way to go.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I’m curious if 2 prussics would work in place of the amsteel. Unwrapped of course


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
AntlerAddict76 said:
Thx
So LB replacement? Or in addition to it? From reading a little of that Buckingham description do you more or less climb with lineman’s then at desired height hookup the squeeze so you can setup platform etc or have treesueeze attatched throughout climb?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The fancy one I linked is a LB replacement, my version(poor man's tree squeeze) is just a small add on to the LB. The whole point is to climb with it so instead of sliding down until the LB stops you, it immediately stops you. I've only used it with spurs so far plan to use it with my WE stepps and sticks, but I can't climb for a few more months.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Do you guys think a prussic would work just as well as using a piece of amsteel for attaching Swaider to climbing sticks?

Always have plenty of them lying around and it would be easy to make one the length that you would need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
donnieballgame said:
The fancy one I linked is a LB replacement, my version(poor man's tree squeeze) is just a small add on to the LB. The whole point is to climb with it so instead of sliding down until the LB stops you, it immediately stops you. I've only used it with spurs so far plan to use it with my WE stepps and sticks, but I can't climb for a few more months.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Very interested in this set up as an extra safety precaution when climbing either with spurs or with the Naider Swaider set up.
On your poor man's version is it difficult to advance the lineman rope up the tree while using spurs?

Are you able to keep enough slack to flip the line up as you climb?
 
tider said:
Do you guys think a prussic would work just as well as using a piece of amsteel for attaching Swaider to climbing sticks?

Always have plenty of them lying around and it would be easy to make one the length that you would need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I would think a prussic would be fine as long as it's made with properly rated rope and has appropriate knots such as double fisherman knots on the ends
 
Gibby said:
I would think a prussic would be fine as long as it's made with properly rated rope and has appropriate knots such as double fisherman knots on the ends
Click to expand...
Agreed, however you are just using the prusik rope, not the knot right?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
donnieballgame said:
Agreed, however you are just using the prusik rope, not the knot right?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I dont know how he intends to attach it to the stick, I suppose if he made the prussic loop large enough he could wrap it around the stick or at the very least girth hitch it around. I was more concerned it's made of the right (rated) material regardless of how its attached.
 
Orion5 said:
Is that a plastic hook?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That’s a hawk hook. It’s metal with a plastic coating. Hawk makes tree stands along with other things. The strap and hook are from a tree stand strap.
 

Ok. I’m not familiar with that hook type and saw that. Kind of freaked me out there for a second ... lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
g2outdoors said:
I used 1/4" Amsteel for my continuous loops. They work well.
Click to expand...

How much Amsteel did that take you? I can find instructions for continuous loops in smaller diameters, but none for 1/4”....

Do you still do 2 fids of burry for both sides?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top