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Bridge Basics

Amsteel may indeed be stronger than a climbing runner but guess what climbing runners are made for? This :)

For the SitDrag, a fixed bridge of a water knot tied webbing loop directly to the loops is working great for me. Quiet, light, packable...you just have to clip over both lines of the loop is the only 'hazard'. And it isn't difficult to rotate the knot off to the side. With a runner, you don't always have the same piece of webbing rubbing on the loops so it isn't likely that it will ever wear out. Webbing is cheap and you can replace it in a few minutes whenever you want to.

My SitDrag loops are sewn like a lot of guys here and then wrapped in gorilla tape
 
DXD said:
Question for the Forum: I hunt from a Guido's Web with 11 mm static kernmantle rope - Ropeman1 - 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) for my tie- in. I bought the rope and sling from MTS Runner several years back (good stuff but I don't think he's selling anymore..MTS Runner if you have a lead on where you got your slings it would be appreciated) but am planning on replacing it this year out of abundance of caution and the use I've put on it. I have two redundancy's that I use with the rope: (1) an overhand knot loop at the end of the rope that I hook into the carabiner coming off the Ropeman 1; and (2) a prussic knot that is also attached to the carabiner (that's attached to the Ropeman 1) and loosely attached to the rope above the Ropeman 1. I don't have any redundancy, however, should the climbing sling (bridge) fail. So it's important to me that I use the strongest 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) that I can find (a hunting friendly color would be a bonus) . Any ideas? Thanks.
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I made a bridge out of 9mm samson ultra tech rope. It is small and light and way more rugged than any climbing runner. If you want to use a climbing runner, I would check out these, they are a little more heavy duty than your average sling: https://www.bluewaterropes.com/product/1-climb-spec-slings/
 
DXD said:
How did you make it? Did you simply tie loops in the ends?
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I tied a figure 8 on a bight on each end.
bc3cb6a04ed018c9f817fb23b187c5d6.jpg
 
g2outdoors said:
New sewing, but you do have to Splice. Splicing is SUPER EASY. Waaaaaay easier than sewing.

I go over my DIY bridge in this video. Also, I put the links I followed to finish it. Hope it helps!

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I haven't been on this site for several months so your sitdrag saddle (with rock climb harness) is news to me. It always amazes me the inginuity ....good stuff.
 
justsomedude said:
Amsteel may indeed be stronger than a climbing runner but guess what climbing runners are made for? This :)

For the SitDrag, a fixed bridge of a water knot tied webbing loop directly to the loops is working great for me. Quiet, light, packable...you just have to clip over both lines of the loop is the only 'hazard'. And it isn't difficult to rotate the knot off to the side. With a runner, you don't always have the same piece of webbing rubbing on the loops so it isn't likely that it will ever wear out. Webbing is cheap and you can replace it in a few minutes whenever you want to.

My SitDrag loops are sewn like a lot of guys here and then wrapped in gorilla tape
Click to expand...

Well I contacted Samson who put me in touch with their main dude and sent him a marked up picture of a saddle in use and explained how it worked and where I wanted to use Amsteel. He said no problem.:cool:
 
I'm interested in going to a fixed bridge on my evo using amsteel, but before I order it I wanted to try using some 1" tubular webbing (I have on hand) for a short time to test out the fixed bridge lengths and decide if I will miss the adjustability. Can any of you pros give me any advice on how to tie in the webbing to the rigging plates without using carabiners? Would you recommend a stopper knot on the bottom of the plate or going through the plate and back to the bridge to tie off?


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Just stop adjusting the length and see if you like it. Then just tie a knot in the rope it came with and you don't have to get experimental. The supplied rope with the paws works great and I wouldn't try to shave a few ounces there.

If you really want to try webbing, tying a big sling using a water knot is one way.... A simple Overhand Knot on a Bight would be proper but generally that is used with Carabiners. You can tie directly onto the Paws with a "rethread" overhand on a bight.

There is a great iPhone App called "Knots in 3D" that helps me out from time to time.
 
DXD said:
I looked up the specs on that rope ...you've got my attention. Do you have a better photo of your bridge? It looks like alot more rope than just a bridge. Good advice. Thanks.
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The extra rope you see is just the bottom of my tether.
 
Chistavocat said:
I'm interested in going to a fixed bridge on my evo using amsteel, but before I order it I wanted to try using some 1" tubular webbing (I have on hand) for a short time to test out the fixed bridge lengths and decide if I will miss the adjustability. Can any of you pros give me any advice on how to tie in the webbing to the rigging plates without using carabiners? Would you recommend a stopper knot on the bottom of the plate or going through the plate and back to the bridge to tie off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

There is comfort in a longer bridge, but it might get in your way when maneuvering. An adjustable is a good thing. When its dark or on all day sits or gun hunting, I like a 36" bridge. I tied a whoopie out of amsteel, fully adjustable and super light/pliable for packing.
 
kenn1320 said:
There is comfort in a longer bridge, but it might get in your way when maneuvering. An adjustable is a good thing. When its dark or on all day sits or gun hunting, I like a 36" bridge. I tied a whoopie out of amsteel, fully adjustable and super light/pliable for packing.
Click to expand...

I like this idea. I know there are several Youtube videos that explain this but is there a particular video that you could link that shows the proper way. For whatever reason splicing scares the crap out of me
 
Waymore said:
I like this idea. I know there are several Youtube videos that explain this but is there a particular video that you could link that shows the proper way. For whatever reason splicing scares the crap out of me
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Nope. Go to sampson rope and look around. Its so easy to splice this rope. I used 6" bury. I could alter the bridge to go down to 6" or open to 40". It depends on where you put the constrictor. I know 24" is smallest I personally used and 36 was my main size. I move it around during the hunt, changes pressure points enough to make a difference. On the fixed end I did a double splice. You run the tail thru main line and then main line thru tail and bury the tag end. It can't come undone. If you do a standard eye splice you should bury more or stitch it. However after some testing, this rope constricts so well I never bothered stitching it. That's on my platform where Im not using it as a lifeline.
 
Waymore said:
I like this idea. I know there are several Youtube videos that explain this but is there a particular video that you could link that shows the proper way. For whatever reason splicing scares the crap out of me
Click to expand...
This is the video I used to learn how to splice amsteel.
 
as light as Amsteel is I would opt for a larger diameter rope like 3/8 or even 1/2.
 
So just a few questions since I have not spliced nor worked with amsteel. First I understand not to separate the filaments but when separating the strands is there a certain amount that you need on each side for example 8 strand 4 on each side?? Second how do you measure the minimum or maximum length of the amount you will need to make a whoopie sling for say the platform mods?
 
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