Aero Hunter Kestrel First Impressions

[1saddleguy]

Just spent a little time "customizing" my kestrel. There is really not much to do. This is the most minimalist saddle that has ever been on the market and its got all the necessary safety features.

I don't think my bridge needs to be removable so I tied it on fixed to the other side, this gets rid of one carabiner on the system. I used a buntline hitch for now. @1saddleguy, is this ok and is there a better way that you would recommend doing this?

I tried to put the yakgrips onto the two leg buckles to quiet them down but they are a little too tight (@justsomedude). I'll probably end up stealth stripping them, but I'll leave them for now.

I am not familiar with the buntline hitch but I will look it up. I tend to get familiar with the knots I choose and use in design. I will say that a knot that constricts the webbing strap would not be as good as a knot that forms a loop to allow the webbing to run freely when adjusting. That is one reason we are using the figure eight on a bight besides it being a super safe knot.
If you want a fixed bridge I would look into getting another one of those DMM shackles and run a double spliced bridge. Trade out the bulk and weight of the knots for the shackles. Later if you decided you wanted to use a carbiner on 1 or both sides or an adjuster, you still have that option.
You could get or make a custom bridge but if you like your bridge that short you could look into something like a grizzly eye splice.
http://www.sherrilltree.com/sherrilltree-10mm-28in-grizzly-spliced-black-beeline-eye-to-eye-tail

I will be looking at making an accessory cover for the buckles. They will be able to be added on. I just have not have time yet. I am not familiar with yak grips. I'll look those up too.

 

[redsquirrel]

I am not familiar with the buntline hitch but I will look it up. I tend to get familiar with the knots I choose and use in design. I will say that a knot that constricts the webbing strap would not be as good as a knot that forms a loop to allow the webbing to run freely when adjusting. That is one reason we are using the figure eight on a bight besides it being a super safe knot.
If you want a fixed bridge I would look into getting another one of those DMM shackles and run a double spliced bridge. Trade out the bulk and weight of the knots for the shackles. Later if you decided you wanted to use a carbiner on 1 or both sides or an adjuster, you still have that option.
You could get or make a custom bridge but if you like your bridge that short you could look into something like a grizzly eye splice.
http://www.sherrilltree.com/sherrilltree-10mm-28in-grizzly-spliced-black-beeline-eye-to-eye-tail

I will be looking at making an accessory cover for the buckles. They will be able to be added on. I just have not have time yet. I am not familiar with yak grips. I'll look those up too.

View attachment 2516

Great, thanks for the suggestions. I will try some stuff out and settle on something that doesn't compress the webbing strap. I bought the smaller size of that DMM shackle and it was tiny! I couldn't believe it. It was too tiny to use for this.

 

[Mike K]

I am not familiar with the buntline hitch but I will look it up. I tend to get familiar with the knots I choose and use in design. I will say that a knot that constricts the webbing strap would not be as good as a knot that forms a loop to allow the webbing to run freely when adjusting. That is one reason we are using the figure eight on a bight besides it being a super safe knot.
If you want a fixed bridge I would look into getting another one of those DMM shackles and run a double spliced bridge. Trade out the bulk and weight of the knots for the shackles. Later if you decided you wanted to use a carbiner on 1 or both sides or an adjuster, you still have that option.
You could get or make a custom bridge but if you like your bridge that short you could look into something like a grizzly eye splice.
http://www.sherrilltree.com/sherrilltree-10mm-28in-grizzly-spliced-black-beeline-eye-to-eye-tail

I will be looking at making an accessory cover for the buckles. They will be able to be added on. I just have not have time yet. I am not familiar with yak grips. I'll look those up too.

View attachment 2516

1saddleguy, who makes the fixed bridge in your image # 7307 ?

 

[bubba g]

At one point, I used my bridge like suspenders to hold my up my Evo while hiking in

Same here... works great...

 

[1saddleguy]

1saddleguy, who makes the fixed bridge in your image # 7307 ?

No one makes it as far as I know. It was made by a friend who was visiting the shop. He whipped it up while he was waiting around. The guy can do everything so I know it's sound. It's made from Tenex which he said it was easy to splice.

 

[Mike K]

No one makes it as far as I know. It was made by a friend who was visiting the shop. He whipped it up while he was waiting around. The guy can do everything so I know it's sound. It's made from Tenex which he said it was easy to splice.

Thanks.

 

[Mike K]

Great, thanks for the suggestions. I will try some stuff out and settle on something that doesn't compress the webbing strap. I bought the smaller size of that DMM shackle and it was tiny! I couldn't believe it. It was too tiny to use for this.

Redsquirrel, I like the looks of that shackle but is it safe for what we do? I looked into it and the WLL is only 3KN

 

[redsquirrel]

Redsquirrel, I like the looks of that shackle but is it safe for what we do? I looked into it and the WLL is only 3KN

Maybe @1saddleguy can comment on that for us. He mentioned it in another thread so I thought I'd try it out. I didn't even catch the WLL, I only saw the strength rating of 26kN. Good catch. I expect it to be fine because it is made for climbing but I'd be interested to know why such a large difference between the strength and WLL.

DMM has a couple interesting products: http://dmmprofessional.com/products/compact-swivels/

 

[d_rek]

I really like the look of those fixed caribiner bridges, though I'm not keen on adding more metal to the setup. I think someone else did spliced eye amsteel bridge for their sitdrag.


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[justsomedude]

Yep. I'll take the bulk of knots over metal any day. Anything I can do to be more quiet and lighter while not creating more effort in my climb or hike is a good thing.

 

[1saddleguy]

Maybe @1saddleguy can comment on that for us. He mentioned it in another thread so I thought I'd try it out. I didn't even catch the WLL, I only saw the strength rating of 26kN. Good catch. I expect it to be fine because it is made for climbing but I'd be interested to know why such a large difference between the strength and WLL.

DMM has a couple interesting products: http://dmmprofessional.com/products/compact-swivels/

I should have just pm you. No one needs to add metal or hardware to their bridge but if you do always make sure of it's intended usage and that it is stamped with a high enough rating.
Red, I was giving you an option of losing both knots when I thought you already owned a rated shackle and wanted a fixed bridge.
Weight wise, they weigh less than 2 figure eight on a bight knots when combined with a double spliced tether. A much smaller impact than the Petzl rings.
The one I am using is rated for 26kn but I don't know what you have Red. It sounds smaller. Also I chose bow shape over u- shape.

 

[g2outdoors]

I really like the look of those fixed caribiner bridges, though I'm not keen on adding more metal to the setup. I think someone else did spliced eye amsteel bridge for their sitdrag.


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That's what I do. If a fixed bridge works for you, 1/4" amsteel is the way to go.

Sent from my Galaxy S8.

 

[Bowhunter41002]

How would u apply the amsteel? Eye splice on both sides

 

[redsquirrel]

I should have just pm you. No one needs to add metal or hardware to their bridge but if you do always make sure of it's intended usage and that it is stamped with a high enough rating.
Red, I was giving you an option of losing both knots when I thought you already owned a rated shackle and wanted a fixed bridge.
Weight wise, they weigh less than 2 figure eight on a bight knots when combined with a double spliced tether. A much smaller impact than the Petzl rings.
The one I am using is rated for 26kn but I don't know what you have Red. It sounds smaller. Also I chose bow shape over u- shape.

I'm completely with you. I think something got lost in the back and forth, but I was clear on what you said. As always, I appreciate the help!

 

[redsquirrel]

Redsquirrel, I like the looks of that shackle but is it safe for what we do? I looked into it and the WLL is only 3KN

Sorry Mike, I think I was having a brain fart this morning.. the little girl had us up half the night lol. The specs on that shackle aren't much different from most of the climbing gear that we use. From what I have seen, they don't usually put the working load limits on the metal hardware. I'm usually only reading it when I'm looking at rope. For ropes the breaking strength is usually around 10x the working load limit. IE, yale bandit, 5600lbs, 560lbs. So the 26kN/3 kN rating is pretty comparable.

 

[GBlevins92]

How would u apply the amsteel? Eye splice on both sides

I did a Brummel splice on one side and a lock stitch splice on the other end for the fixed bridge on my sit drag


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[Root]

Fine fine I'll bite. So how are their sizes measured? Do you guys measure with your full hunting attire?

 

[Mike K]

Sorry Mike, I think I was having a brain fart this morning.. the little girl had us up half the night lol. The specs on that shackle aren't much different from most of the climbing gear that we use. From what I have seen, they don't usually put the working load limits on the metal hardware. I'm usually only reading it when I'm looking at rope. For ropes the breaking strength is usually around 10x the working load limit. IE, yale bandit, 5600lbs, 560lbs. So the 26kN/3 kN rating is pretty comparable.

Thanks Scott. I guess I don't full understand the correlation between the two specs.

 

[redsquirrel]

Thanks Scott. I guess I don't full understand the correlation between the two specs.

WLL is the recommended maximum weight to use with that device. Breaking strength is where it will actually break. Breaking strength is usually around 10x the WLL. That builds in a safety factor because in a fall you can generate much more force than the WLL.

 

[Dopo87]

So tempting to buy this saddle haha!