Anyone know how to make adjustable web bridge without sewing?

[Iron_llama]

Say more about this please. I never used these for a bridge but plenty on aiders and almost can’t get those suckers to move when I want to undo them.

Who are you replying to, what detail do you want us to expand on?

I like the webbing bridges on my Recon. Secured with a water knot.

 

[Marmuzz]

I got away from the Austrian alpine tri-glides on my bridge specifically because I had them slip on me in several different configurations over the past three years with several different types of webbing in several different scenarios. If I use them now at all they are back fed plus a knot on the end for back up. I’m 200lbs.

Say more about this please. I never used these for a bridge but plenty on aiders and almost can’t get those suckers to move when I want to undo them.

Edit: See updated post further down. They can slip.

 

[Marmuzz]

Who are you replying to, what detail do you want us to expand on?

I like the webbing bridges on my Recon. Secured with a water knot.

Sorry, this was for @gcr0003 with his comment on the AustriAlpin buckles. The reply function didn't work for some reason. I deleted my previous post for redundancy.

 

[Iron_llama]

Sorry, this was for @gcr0003 with his comment on the AustriAlpin buckles. The reply function didn't work for some reason. I deleted my previous post for redundancy.

Gotcha. I've got the AustralAplin (sp) tri-glides on my UltimAider and my leg straps. I'm happy with them, but I think on a bridge I'd be more comfortable if they were backed up with stopper knots.

 

[Marmuzz]

Gotcha. I've got the AustralAplin (sp) tri-glides on my UltimAider and my leg straps. I'm happy with them, but I think on a bridge I'd be more comfortable if they were backed up with stopper knots.

Yeah, I've used them the same way. Why do you say that? Isn't the point of rated tri-glides to retain webbing without knots or stitches?

 

[Jay_Disarray]

while not "fully adjustable" i grew to prefer using a sling for a bridge on my saddle. depending on how you loop it through your bridge loops you can set it in a few different configurations using a carabiner. this makes the bridge openable, and you no longer have to step through a bridge with muddy muck boots also. switching the configuration is as simple as going to my lineman for a minute, changing configuration and sitting back down, no extra parts or anything.

keep in mind with these photos, this is just for demonstration purpose, these are not the biners i use for hunting. crossloading on the carabiner in the first picture hasnt been an issue for me, when using proper size carabiners, but something you should be aware of

 

[Iron_llama]

Yeah, I've used them the same way. Why do you say that? Isn't the point of rated tri-glides to retain webbing without knots or stitches?

Just for peace of mind. I'm sure they'll hold, but I'm more comfortable knowing that the one thing keeping me from hurtling to the ground won't slide loose.

My bridge is woven through the bridge plates on my Recon, and it absolutely does not move. Still, I cut my bridge extra long and tied the tag ends together to eliminate the possibility that could pull itself through. As an added bonus I now have a short bridge I can climb on.

 

[Marmuzz]

I got away from the Austrian alpine tri-glides on my bridge specifically because I had them slip on me in several different configurations over the past three years with several different types of webbing in several different scenarios. If I use them now at all they are back fed plus a knot on the end for back up. I’m 200lbs.

I gotta give props to @gcr0003 on this. I found I was wrong. I recently made a 2TC footloop with one of these AustriAlpin 1" frame buckles and 1" tubular webbing with tails 5+ inches. After only 5-10 climbs I was shocked last night to see one tail had gotten to only 3/4" from slipping through. I never noticed it slipping.

Over multiple seasons one-sticking I've never seen them move in my UltimAider so maybe the directional load or the additional friction of running the webbing through a slotted stick step makes a difference. But I'd have to agree these may not be good for a bridge.

I edited my first comment.

 

[mschultz373]

Any buckles for 2” webbing? That’s what I have laying around and been meaning to make a second bridge

 

[Marmuzz]

Any buckles for 2” webbing? That’s what I have laying around and been meaning to make a second bridge

A 2” bridge will work but it will be very fat to slide through a carabiner. My first saddle had a 2” webbing bridge and I didn’t love it. 1” tubular webbing slides much nicer imo.

 

[Sechelik]

I added a synthetic rope for my adjustable main(top) bridge and kept my sewn ESS bridge for my secondary/belay/rappel/backup.


I bought this rope from Amazon and already installed it on my bridge to try out for the next season or so.

I have used this one(see below) for the last 21 months with very little wear and just wanted a different look(orange).

 

[Sechelik]

Update on my adjustable synthetic bridge. See picture below, we'll see how long the orange color lasts (hopefully 2-3 seasons).