Bow Length

[Prill87]

4 month old Full rig nitrum 34 $750
Only used for half the season. 70lb/30" nitrum 34. $750. Comes with fuse stealth blade. Qad hdx. Trophy ridge react trio. Can't find a blemish on it. In excellent condition
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...e_fid=16462&share_type=t&share_pid=1098961417


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It's only worth 6-650 TYD. Would have to know you DL because it maxes at 31". Can get 31.25" out of d loop and manipulating strings and cables


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[kenn1320]

Guys I just googled "long D loop" to give you an example of what Im talking about and found one. I know Im just another "shooter", luckily Nutz and boltz helped a long draw guy to give credibility to what I'm saying.
Look at post #11, perfect example of a long draw length(32 3/8") and fixing it with a longer D-loop like I suggested.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1127377

 

[DwadeCham]

Guys I just googled "long D loop" to give you an example of what Im talking about and found one. I know Im just another "shooter", luckily Nutz and boltz helped a long draw guy to give credibility to what I'm saying.
Look at post #11, perfect example of a long draw length(32 3/8") and fixing it with a longer D-loop like I suggested.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1127377

So it seems as if I could try this for now a bit but I don't want a 2" D loop do I? I may increase it for the rest of our season and see if that helps but I will be getting a new bow as soon as possible.

I do see how this would allow me to buy a bow with a DL up to 31 though. Thanks for the info!

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[d_rek]

So it seems as if I could try this for now a bit but I don't want a 2" D loop do I? I may increase it for the rest of our season and see if that helps but I will be getting a new bow as soon as possible.

I do see how this would allow me to buy a bow with a DL up to 31 though. Thanks for the info!

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I think there's a point when your d loop is too long. I'm not sure you want your d loop 2 inches long at full draw. I can't imagine you would find a comfortable anchor anywhere like that.




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[DwadeCham]

I'm sure you all were waiting on pins and needles for this update. Put money down on an Elite Tempo today. Draw length goes to 32". Has a valley a mile long. Just pulling back with no arrow you almost have to push the release forward for let off. Feels like you could hold it for an hour. Smooth draw cycle.

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[d_rek]

I'm sure you all were waiting on pins and needles for this update. Put money down on an Elite Tempo today. Draw length goes to 32". Has a valley a mile long. Just pulling back with no arrow you almost have to push the release forward for let off. Feels like you could hold it for an hour. Smooth draw cycle.

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Ah, well, eventually you'll learn not to draw back without an arrow

And I'm surprised the shop let you draw it back without one...


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[DwadeCham]

Ah, well, eventually you'll learn not to draw back without an arrow

And I'm surprised the shop let you draw it back without one...


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It is a safety release. It wasn't a release that you could dry fire from. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

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[DwadeCham]

Explain to me the dangers/problems with drawing back without an arrow other than the obvious dry fire.

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[d_rek]

Explain to me the dangers/problems with drawing back without an arrow other than the obvious dry fire.

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Dry fire is the the biggest danger. Outside of that it's a bad habit to get into.

Laws of probability demand you dry fire at least one bow in your lifetime no matter how careful you are.

I dry fired the first compound I owned after I got my first thumb release. I was lucky to only have my strings derail and no damage to limbs or cams, but on the extreme end your bow could literally explode as there is nowhere for the stored energy to go except back into the bow and not the arrow like it's supposed to.


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[DwadeCham]

Dry fire is the the biggest danger. Outside of that it's a bad habit to get into.

Laws of probability demand you dry fire at least one bow in your lifetime no matter how careful you are.

I dry fired the first compound I owned after I got my first thumb release. I was lucky to only have my strings derail and no damage to limbs or cams, but on the extreme end your bow could literally explode as there is nowhere for the stored energy to go except back into the bow and not the arrow like it's supposed to.


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I can see that. But it was what they label as a "safety release". No way to actually release. But either way, it is the only place I have in my city, or at least the only ones that have helped me on this search.

Thanks for the info.

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[d_rek]

I can see that. But it was what they label as a "safety release". No way to actually release. But either way, it is the only place I have in my city, or at least the only ones that have helped me on this search.

Thanks for the info.

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The only safety release I'm familiar with there is still a risk of the user letting go of the release... but I follow you. I just know if it was my shop and my merch I wouldn't be giving anyone the benefit of the doubt lol


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[Prill87]

Dry fire is the the biggest danger. Outside of that it's a bad habit to get into.

Laws of probability demand you dry fire at least one bow in your lifetime no matter how careful you are.

I dry fired the first compound I owned after I got my first thumb release. I was lucky to only have my strings derail and no damage to limbs or cams, but on the extreme end your bow could literally explode as there is nowhere for the stored energy to go except back into the bow and not the arrow like it's supposed to.


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I've already met my one dry fire requirement. I finger drew a bow in a shop (yeah I was young and stupid). I'm petrified of drawing it without an arrow nocked. Heck I triple check it's nocked before even drawing it.

I yelled at my local bowshop (different shop) owner when he finger drew my bow without an arrow to check timing. Ever heard of a draw board buddy?

His reply "I do it all the time." Mine "you shouldn't have to dryfire a customers bow before you realize it's a bad idea."



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[DwadeCham]

I've already met my one dry fire requirement. I finger drew a bow in a shop (yeah I was young and stupid). I'm petrified of drawing it without an arrow nocked. Heck I triple check it's nocked before even drawing it.

I yelled at my local bowshop (different shop) owner when he finger drew my bow without an arrow to check timing. Ever heard of a draw board buddy?

His reply "I do it all the time." Mine "you shouldn't have to dryfire a customers bow before you realize it's a bad idea."



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Makes sense. I wish I could explain this release better. But there is no trigger. And the piece that pulls back the string is a solid metal J hook with no moving parts. The only way it could fire is if the metal piece failed completely or somehow the whole thing broke off from your wrist.

But either way, I have two place to go that I am aware of in town. I went to both. One immediately told me a Matthews Talon something that would cost $1300 was my ONLY option. The other let me pull back with a safety release and worked with me through the different manufacturers to find a bow that would meet my draw length. And they were excited to show me the Tempo because they thought it was a step up from the Bear BR33.

I will pick the latter. And they have signs all over the place posted telling people not to draw back without their safety release. But I understand what you guys are saying.

Wade

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[Prill87]

Makes sense. I wish I could explain this release better. But there is no trigger. And the piece that pulls back the string is a solid metal J hook with no moving parts. The only way it could fire is if the metal piece failed completely or somehow the whole thing broke off from your wrist.

But either way, I have two place to go that I am aware of in town. I went to both. One immediately told me a Matthews Talon something that would cost $1300 was my ONLY option. The other let me pull back with a safety release and worked with me through the different manufacturers to find a bow that would meet my draw length. And they were excited to show me the Tempo because they thought it was a step up from the Bear BR33.

I will pick the latter. And they have signs all over the place posted telling people not to draw back without their safety release. But I understand what you guys are saying.

Wade

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The more likely reason for the release to fail is for the d-loop to break. That does happen.

That's what I'm afraid of and why I always knock an arrow. I also nock an arrow when it's on the draw board.


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[Prill87]

The more likely reason for the release to fail is for the d-loop to break. That does happen.

That's what I'm afraid of and why I always knock an arrow. I also nock an arrow when it's on the draw board.


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But my local bow shop has safety releases also. They use them all the time and don't have problems.

I just don't pull my bow back without an arrow because I do my own work and always have that fear in the back of my mind that I didn't do it correctly. Although my buck this year was taken with my bow that I replaced the string and cables and completely set up myself.


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[DwadeCham]

That's cool. I appreciate all the info. Last year was my first year to hunt with a bow so I am always learning.

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[fatboy111]

I don't recommend using the wingspan method for determining draw length. I use a couple different methods. John Dudley has a pretty good method you can find on YouTube. Also, I don't recommend guys shooting ATA bows the same length, or close to the same length as their draw length. I have seen too many tuning issues. If you are are 31-32 inches in draw, stick to a bow 34 or more in ATA. Good luck.

 

[DwadeCham]

I don't recommend using the wingspan method for determining draw length. I use a couple different methods. John Dudley has a pretty good method you can find on YouTube. Also, I don't recommend guys shooting ATA bows the same length, or close to the same length as their draw length. I have seen too many tuning issues. If you are are 31-32 inches in draw, stick to a bow 34 or more in ATA. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. I ended up buying a Elite Tempo. Goes to 32" draw length and over 34" ATA.

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[DwadeCham]

I don't recommend using the wingspan method for determining draw length. I use a couple different methods. John Dudley has a pretty good method you can find on YouTube. Also, I don't recommend guys shooting ATA bows the same length, or close to the same length as their draw length. I have seen too many tuning issues. If you are are 31-32 inches in draw, stick to a bow 34 or more in ATA. Good luck.

I will double check my draw length based off of Dudley's method. Thanks again.

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