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Friction Hitches

Regarding the recent and healthy discussion on what we mean by SELF TENDING, I have given that some thought and also chatted with a few experts and updated my DICTIONARY which already had these terms, but I realized we needed more detail. For example, 'self tending' means something slightly different in the context of a climbing system vs a hitch.

Here's the link so you can see any changes we make based on your feedback. You can message me directly with any comments if ya prefer. This thread is about friction hitches and I don't want to clutter it up with anything not related to friction hitches.

Dictionary - JrbTreeClimbing.com

JRB's Dictionary for Saddle Hunter's Criteria for inclusion: 1) Useful to a large audience of Saddle hunters. 2) Brand agnostic, where possible. 3) Does not include a list of knots, only knot types and some examples. 4) Leave Feedback as appropriate. Get 10% discount using the JRB10 coupon code...
jrbtreeclimbing.com


tend / tender/ self tending
Tend: An action/verb causing the movement of a friction device in a desired direction. In rope climbing ascent, the friction device is tended upward for progress capture, removing / minimizing slack in the system.
Tender (or Tending Device) is a device which tends a friction hitch in the desired direction. Pulleys, rings and carabiners are commonly employed as tenders.
Self Tending: The literal definition applies : Tends itself. In the context of describing a system vs a hitch, there are subtle differences.
Self Tending System: A self tending system has automatic progress capture, requiring no manual action to advance the friction device. Example: “Double Blake’s Hitch MRS System”. Note that a self tending system might use a tender.
Self Tending Friction Hitch: One which allows the removal of slack with only one hand by pulling on the tag end of the rope and without the use of a tender. Example 1: Shorten a Tether or Lineman’s belt with one hand. Example 2: Climber is connected to the tree via a friction hitch to a Lifeline which is secured to the tree. Climber steps up, introducing slack, and pulls the tag end of the rope outward and upward, removing the slack with one hand.

progress capture – Automatic consumption of slack, or minimization thereof, typically in the context of ascent, pulling and rigging applications. Example: An MRS climber has the option to either manually advance (tend) the friction hitch after each pull, or to rig the system for progress capture (self tending).

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
 
gcr0003 said:
You responded to my tending/prusik rant, not the other way around. I don’t care what anyone on here decides to use. I made the point that “self tending” is not very functional on a primary tether and you agreed.

This could be regardless of whether it’s a prusik or not. It was sort of two arguments that morphed into one I.e. a prusik is easy to adjust but you have to use two hands and take weight off. Other hitches are not easy adjust or “tend” one handed and you still have to take weight off. If you use two hands, holding the rope and pushing the hitch up with the other hand is easier then trying to tend it.
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My 1/4” amsteel full bury tether with Prusik from Amsteel guy(maybe a swabish, I’ll double check) both tends and breaks way easier one handed than a Ropeman. It’s enough advantage that I usually use that to ascend then switch to my rappel with Ropeman when I get to height.
 
gcr0003 said:
Dang that’s too bad. I would have enjoyed watching you try to self tend your hitch after putting your full body weight on it. Thats my point exactly. No one is self tending a hitch on their main tether without some struggle or some muscle with or without a tender to aid. To me that is not easier than moving the hitch up with both hands. And if you’re going to move a hitch up with both hands because it’s easier, the prusik is the easiest.
Click to expand...
I’ve been using the soft stitch since Brocky sent it to me, I use it on my main tether one sticking, and on my detachable bridges, both will tend one handed very easy after full body load is applied. 8mm restec bridges with 6mm trc and on 9mm htp with 7mm Sterling! These combos work perfectly one handed for me.
 
I started working with the Sticht and I guess between my OCD with symmetry and struggling to get it tied right I ended up with this. In my practice so far it seems to work well. Instead of the overhand, I tied it off with a double fishermans knot. I assume it has a name?? Do one of you all know what it is called?
Front
34bb9ebd6ba6590eee3f84c3d43a18b5.jpg

Back before tying off
25f4f108c5944090b708c426340a2236.jpg

Back tied off
260b56f05b64ba990e65364da6f307ca.jpg

Under tension
de1dcc6d9fad4e3963f797a722ecf3f3.jpg
 
I wrapped the Distel a little different than "standard". Not sure if I have the "language" right, but I think it's called a three over two??
 
I'm interested to hear as well. I have little knowledge. For me, this seemed to break a little easier.
 
It doesn’t seem to bind as much as the standard method, I use a dogbone tender on a Distel, stoppers in back seem to drag too much, might be due to the Distel’s simple structure.
IMG_6612.jpeg
 
A couple more tending options, top one is getting the Double Fishermen’s of a longer loop, to multitask, just weave the rope through a couple of times.
IMG_6614.jpeg
I wanted to tie the bottom hitch, which tends okay, but mistakenly made the top one, easy tending, and it doesn’t bind like a regular Prusik.
IMG_6613.jpeg
 
This explains it pretty good, from The Tree Climbers Companion, 2nd edition, there is, or is going to be a 3rd ed., looks to be much updated from the previous edition.
IMG_6648.jpeg
I did 6 wraps and sewed the ends down after passing them through the eye, tidied it up and keeps some bend in it also.
 
Brocky said:
This explains it pretty good, from The Tree Climbers Companion, 2nd edition, there is, or is going to be a 3rd ed., looks to be much updated from the previous edition.
View attachment 101366
I did 6 wraps and sewed the ends down after passing them through the eye, tidied it up and keeps some bend in it also.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thank you! Made a couple of.these and plan to try them out.
 
Post in thread 'SH Superlatives' https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/sh-superlatives.57306/post-825786

@Brocky , sorry to jump around. I think this is a better spot for this question and topic.

From what I'm seeing the t-100 appears to have polyester sheath, and I think my vectran is clear with no sheath. Looks like the sheath is poly of the vectran too.

Do I need to avoid the polyester? I bought v.elo Dy-PES to try, based mostly on the break strength, and it was what I found. Happy to scratch that idea and buy something else if that's a poor choice

@Dope on a Rope, tagging you so hopefully you don't miss this info
 
T-100 has a technora core and polyester cover, the Vectran is a single braid, meaning it has no cover.

Probably just my paranoia, but being that small for a hitch cord, I would want either the cover or core to have some heat resistance, even with the shorter length of a tether. The top wrap of a hitch gets the hottest, a polyester cover could get hot enough to degrade a dyneema core and you might not know it, might not break, but may weaken, and it would be hidden inside the cover. The PES would be easily inspected being a single braid, I got some in 6mm, and works good as a friction hitch.
 
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@Horn
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This is 5.5mm yacht line with 5300 lbs break strength
And there is also Bluewater titan cord with 3200 lbs break strength. Both have dyneema cores with heavy polyester covers and enough break strength that they should work with those tiny tethers you are using. Although you may want to add an extra wrap or two???? Since it’s only a mm difference. I haven’t found any 4mm line with high enough breaking strength.

@Brocky what are your thoughts on 5mm hitch cord on 6mm rope?
 
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