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H2 vs tethrd?

Sometimes I think my tolerance for comfort is like my taste palette. I’ll eat anything.

Point is I’ve sat in several saddles, a sit drag and a fleece. It’s never the discomfort that makes me switch it’s the little things. The jingle bell buckled in the trophy line, the vertical movement on the mantis, the RCH requirement in the fleece and SD. I finally stopped at the H2 when I realized it was comfortable and priced right.

I’m wanting to at least try the articulating positions offered by the comfort channels or something similar on the H2 that I’m working on. Not going to lay out $250 to try though.


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Make a triad bridge with Samson amsteel 1/4 and 3/16 inch rope and a full bury. I really like the bridge on the phantom. Or just use Oplux and two long Beal jammys with a prussic on the bridge loop and a prussic on the bridge

Then the H2 will be even better.


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Make a triad bridge with Samson amsteel 1/4 and 3/16 inch rope and a full bury. I really like the bridge on the phantom. Or just use Oplux and two long Beal jammys with a prussic on the bridge loop and a prussic on the bridge

Then the H2 will be even better.


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On an amsteel triad how long are each of the 3/16” continuous loops. Starting length and finished length?
 
I have only made an ultribridge for a recon. So I am no sure. I have an H2 triad loop I measured.
The loop from H2 is 28 inches approx,
but the bury is short, so the loop does not have to be as big. I would consider making a loop with more bury which would require a bigger loop to make the prussic and kleimsheist. I think that is what the knots called. A thicker prussic will require more loop.


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The recon ultribridge bridge with fully bury required about 44 inches of rope less than what is needed for a triad


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This was 48” or 3/16 Amsteel. My original spliced loop I measured at 12” but obviously got shorter with the burry (the burries almost touch each other at half way point). I think if you did a splice at 16ish” you could get the extra loop on the saddle. When I buried I had to cut about 1.5” of each tail ends to fit. Hope that helps give you a better idea of what you’ll need.
95c6cb6cd95b998c1e5b07e52df1c475.jpg



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This was 48” or 3/16 Amsteel. My original spliced loop I measured at 12” but obviously got shorter with the burry (the burries almost touch each other at half way point). I think if you did a splice at 16ish” you could get the extra loop on the saddle. When I buried I had to cut about 1.5” of each tail ends to fit. Hope that helps give you a better idea of what you’ll need.
95c6cb6cd95b998c1e5b07e52df1c475.jpg



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Do you think you need multiple loops on the saddle. If so might you start with say 54 inches of 3/16

Do you have a full bury on the 1/4 Amsteel bridge
Nice job

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Do you think you need multiple loops on the saddle. If so might you start with say 54 inches of 3/16
Nice job

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Yeah, this one is just so it’s easy for me to replace if I want to but I would do a prusik on the saddle if you want to be able to adjust and have it hold where you want it to. 54” was what I was thinking. Maybe 55” for safe measure lol


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Yeah, this one is just so it’s easy for me to replace if I want to but I would do a prusik on the saddle if you want to be able to adjust and have it hold where you want it to. 54” was what I was thinking. Maybe 55” for safe measure lol


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Yes full bury on 1/4”


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On an additional note, if you want the full bury you could make the brumel loop on the 1/4” about 8” then prusik that one one side then do a 3/16” loop on the other. Just eliminates one 3/16” loop on a side but you’ll still have the benefit of the locking adjustment on both sides. Plus you’ll have one sided bridge length adjustment instead of 2 tail ends hanging off. Best of both utilibridge and triad bridges combined.


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On an additional note, if you want the full bury you could make the brumel loop on the 1/4” about 8” then prusik that one one side then do a 3/16” loop on the other. Just eliminates one 3/16” loop on a side but you’ll still have the benefit of the locking adjustment on both sides. Plus you’ll have one sided bridge length adjustment instead of 2 tail ends hanging off. Best of both utilibridge and triad bridges combined.


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I was wondering exactly the same thing


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On an amsteel triad how long are each of the 3/16” continuous loops. Starting length and finished length?
If i remember i have a finished 12ish continual loops..i started with a 1/8" piece of amsteel that is 42" long..that long to allow for loss and for my added piece of mind i sewed thru the amsteel 2 x then wrap 1/8" width and tied off..i use waxed thread..dont even noticed its even there and i use 3/16" piece of amsteel full bury..i start with 8ft. Length...works good for me..i like the added length that way i can tie my knot or shrink wrap it
 
Thanks for that review OntarioFarmer, after a lot of time...A LOT OF TIME in both over the last two weeks I think I've finally given in to the Phantom. The H2 w/Triad is nice but the adjustability and ease of bridge adjustment with the Phantom wins. I hate to say it because I REALLY like my H2 but I'll be selling it.

what happened? Thought you were selling the H2? But the phantom is up for sale???
 
what happened? Thought you were selling the H2? But the phantom is up for sale???

Funny story... I went for a walk in the Phantom, climbed with it on, sat for a while, thought about it. Climbed down and went to get the H2...did the same and came to the conclusion that 1. I have an industrial sewing machine and 2. I can make the H2 even better than it is with minimal effort on my part and 3. Not everyone has the time, nor experience or funds to cover 1 + 2. So, I’m going to pass it on.
 
@SnakeEater, How big of a loop in the bridge to tie a prussic? How big does the continuous loop need to be? I should be receiving my Amsteel tomorrow and could learn from your experience. I assume you used 1/4” for the bridge and 3/16” for the continuous loop.
 
@SnakeEater, How big of a loop in the bridge to tie a prussic? How big does the continuous loop need to be? I should be receiving my Amsteel tomorrow and could learn from your experience. I assume you used 1/4” for the bridge and 3/16” for the continuous loop.

8” is good for bridge. I can get 3 wraps on that side. For the continuous loop I tried a 14” loop before the bury but it came up just short bc of the tag end burry. Total length of 3/16 was 48”. It depends on how much you burry. I have about 1/2” of 3/16 with out a bury in it the rest is doubled. Less bury maybe better or starting at 16” splice.


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Nice work! I have been researching and reading, trying to figure out what bridge to put on my Kite. This Utili-Tri, um, Tri-Ute, ah, UtiliAd... well, I will just call it the "Snake-Bridge", might just be the ticket! Thanks for sharing.
 
Nice work! I have been researching and reading, trying to figure out what bridge to put on my Kite. This Utili-Tri, um, Tri-Ute, ah, UtiliAd... well, I will just call it the "Snake-Bridge", might just be the ticket! Thanks for sharing.

Right on man, i appreciate it. That’s what this site is all about, Sharing sweet ideas! It works well and one less piece to it but has all the features of the other two. I need to perfect the continuous loop size and let y’all know.


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I was planning on using 60” of 3/16 for the continuous loop. If I do a full bury, what size loop can I get?
 
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