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How many years (or hours) for a tether

Fl Canopy Stalker said:
Correct technora does worse than polyester, nylon and dyneema in the sun. UV degradation is rough on it. Also its abrasion resistance is not as good as dyneema or high tenacity polyester. It has better cut resistance than polyester but no better abrasion resistance. It also absorbs water at a rate similar to nylon. Basically the reasons for adding technora are extra strength with low stretch and of course heat treating properties as it has a “melting point” of over 900 degrees. Heat resistance is the real reason technora was first added to ropes
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honestly, if i had a week to come up with a 200 item list of small items to start a new civilization with......dyneema rope and dawn dish soap would both be on the list.......both have a ton, ton of uses
 
raisins said:
honestly, if i had a week to come up with a 200 item list of small items to start a new civilization with......dyneema rope and dawn dish soap would both be on the list.......both have a ton, ton of uses
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They really do
 
raisins said:
what do you think about using ropes where the sheath is strong enough to hold you on its own?

not to have that as an excuse to not inspect/retire.....but if i recall the Oplux sheath of technora would hold your body weight on its own....so it might be comforting to know that even if you screw up inspecting your core that so long as you can see a sheath in good shape then it most likely won't snap on you
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That’s just it isn’t it. If the sheath can hold you all on it’s own, the core isn’t even breathing hard with your puny little weight on it. Most manufacturer recommendations are for ropes that do serious work. Saddle hunting and the comparative wear isn’t even a comparison. If I inspect the rope and the sheath is in good conditions and there aren’t any signs of core damage I’m using it for 5 years, which is the general recommendation for the retirement of working ropes. Certainly understand the draw of “It’s cheap“ so I can replace it every year. I would submit that the rope that I used last year is a proven rope with a proven knot….so which one actually represents the most risk?
 
I have a lot of saddle gear, multiple compete saddle and one stick setups. I rotate my stuff around a lot. I have ropes still in the rotation that are older than 5 years old and are still like new in my eyes.
I had a kestrel I was planning to hand down to my son who is only 2 years old haha... the Kestrel was like 5 years old to begin with. That would make that webbing and material 15 years old by the time I would allow him to use it. Probably will never happen that way, but the way that kestrel was built I have had little concern to date.
I check everything regularly, but if they appear like they did when I first bought them then I feel pretty safe for awhile.
I've never had to wash any ropes, so can't speak to that. I try to keep them out of the mud. When I hunt the rain I massage the dirt out while the ropes are still wet and hang from the tag end to dry.
Like I said in the madrock expectancy thread only you can assess what feels safe to you and how much risk you take. I am maybe on the risky side, but I've been climbing trees for along time now.
 
Weldabeast said:

Sterling Oplux vs. Teufelberger Resc Tech 8mm

Anyone do a comparison?
saddlehunter.com
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Super interesting read... Next question... Given that we girth hitch our ropes to the tree, there will always be a very tight bend there and the rope after a very small number of uses will fail the pinch test.... Is this really a problem? I expect the core is not breaking but rather is rearranging itself due to the pressure. Is there a way to keep your girth hitch from having such a tight bend? I cannot think of one.....
 
jphillips97 said:
Super interesting read... Next question... Given that we girth hitch our ropes to the tree, there will always be a very tight bend there and the rope after a very small number of uses will fail the pinch test.... Is this really a problem? I expect the core is not breaking but rather is rearranging itself due to the pressure. Is there a way to keep your girth hitch from having such a tight bend? I cannot think of one.....
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Is that girth hitch bend in the rope any tighter than the bends inside the knots?
 
Every time I rappel, I switch ends of the rope. I untie my figure 8 on a bight loop and retie it at the other end. I was hoping this would make the rope last longer since the stress wouldn't be at the same exact places each outing. Plus when I rappel, my prusik brake winds up at the bottom end anyway, so it just makes sense to me instead of sliding it back up to the other end.
 
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