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Just got a new guido's web for long sits - should I put a rope tether on it

So the Kong is aok.

This ascender looks like it might be the best thing. Rated at 20 KN

CLIMBING TECHNOLOGY ROLL N LOCK

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The Roll N Lock from CT is an ultra-light pulley and rope clamp combo. Only weighs 80 grams! It is designed for work, rope climbing maneuvers, rescue and self-rescue situations.
 
DOES ANYONE IN CANADA WANT TO BUY 2 ROPEMAN 1 AND 2 ROPEMAN 2 FOR $30 CANADIAN DOLLARS EACH PLUS SHIPPING
 
just for clarification, the failed kong in this article is a "backup" not the "duck". If you have the full report, it also claims that the kong slid down the rope and sheath had minimal to no damage. I have heard about the ropeman cutting the rope, but wasn't able to find that report.

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Agreed. I'm not overly concerned about the rope cutting. I took about a good fall on the ropeman last year. No damage to the sheaf but it definitely put a flat spot in the core. Enough to retire the tether.
 
So the Kong is aok.

This ascender looks like it might be the best thing. Rated at 20 KN

CLIMBING TECHNOLOGY ROLL N LOCK

12216.jpg

12216.jpg

12216.jpg


View large
The Roll N Lock from CT is an ultra-light pulley and rope clamp combo. Only weighs 80 grams! It is designed for work, rope climbing maneuvers, rescue and self-rescue situations.
I had a roll nlock for a year or so, but I gave it away when I sold my aero hunter to someone here. I just didn't like the roll n lock nearly as much. It was plenty strong, but it was easier to screw up with it (you could accidentally move the little slide to lock it open) and it just wasn't for me. I'm really happy with every Ropeman1 and Kong Duck I have and for me, they're the easiest to operate one handed while hunting from sling/saddle
 
Has anyone used the rescuecender?


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So the Kong is aok.

This ascender looks like it might be the best thing. Rated at 20 KN

CLIMBING TECHNOLOGY ROLL N LOCK

12216.jpg

12216.jpg

12216.jpg


View large
The Roll N Lock from CT is an ultra-light pulley and rope clamp combo. Only weighs 80 grams! It is designed for work, rope climbing maneuvers, rescue and self-rescue situations.
I just watched the instructional video for the RollNLock and in our application it's only rated at 4 KN.
 
Agreed. I'm not overly concerned about the rope cutting. I took about a good fall on the ropeman last year. No damage to the sheaf but it definitely put a flat spot in the core. Enough to retire the tether.

Id like to hear about this "fall". I also dont really see testing like we use the devices in that article. In a lineman situation maybe similar, but the rope is gonna slide some so you aren't going to have an abrupt shock like their testing. When your tethered in, your fall is minimal and your not going from a slack tether to fully loaded shock.
 
Id like to hear about this "fall". I also dont really see testing like we use the devices in that article. In a lineman situation maybe similar, but the rope is gonna slide some so you aren't going to have an abrupt shock like their testing. When your tethered in, your fall is minimal and your not going from a slack tether to fully loaded shock.
I was climbing one stick with a 5 step aider and slipped off the top step with maximum slack in the line. I probably fell 5-6 feet. Rope sheath was fine but I put a flat spot in the core.

I was a bit surprised. I usually have to fall at least 20 feet to generate any sort of core damage but those falls have all been on biners
 
Agreed. I'm not overly concerned about the rope cutting. I took about a good fall on the ropeman last year. No damage to the sheaf but it definitely put a flat spot in the core. Enough to retire the tether.
Im just curious, was your Ropeman one of the earlier 4KN models or one of the new 15KN?
 
15 kN. They were purchased new that fall. In my younger years I would have kept the rope tether but rope is cheap compared to the cost of the consequences.
 
New guy here. Been observing for a while.
My Guido's Web from two years ago had a Web bridge attached with carabiners to the Web. But the bridge and the tree tether were sewed together. I went to a rope tether and loop bridge and haven't looked back.

The web bridge has more friction so it feels more controlled,but it's mostly a matter of practice to get used to the faster/less friction bridge.

My web bridge has a loop with a metal elevation adjuster on it. Careful use of a hack saw would leave the loop ready for a carabiner.
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