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Newest saddle

Scott F

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
766
Location
Tampa, Florida
I decided to make another saddle. For this one I incorporated some changes from my last saddle. I guess if I were smart(er) I would have referenced the NT suggestions thread first because I'm sure that there are some great recommendations in that thread. My saddle is my representation of their seemingly great product.

[URL=http://s872.photobucket.com/us...ums/ab287/Pictures4scott/New saddle.jpg[/img][/url]

Here is a picture of the pouch that I made for my lineman's belt. I've sewn a molle-type attachment point to it. I like keeping all 'safety' related things red, thus the red webbing.
[URL=http://s872.photobucket.com/us...ictures4scott/Linemans20belt20pouch.jpg[/img][/url]

Here is a closer look at the bridge hook up strap, it is also where my lineman's belt connects to .
[URL=http://s872.photobucket.com/us.../Pictures4scott/Linemans belt pouch.jpg[/img][/url]

I'm going to use this for the rest of the season and give it an honest chance. I'll adjust the bridge length, hook up height, and about everything else I can try to figure out how to make it comfortable for sits longer than 4 hours. That has been my limit with my former soft saddles that I've made.

I'm thinking that I need a Ropeman 1 or a Kong -- are ascenders THAT much better than a prussic?
 
I like it, looks similar to mine. Any action shot, curious where your bridge loops are in relation to your hips?
 
I really like that saddle. Your sewing actually resembles what sewing should look like. Unlike my chicken scratch sewing. I converted my aero into a similar creation, and sewed on an additional cam buckle webbing ( also sewed the webbing into the loops inside the existing aero's loops on each side- for extra safety just in case). I only use one rope for everything , but even if I used a bridge, lineman flipline, and tree strap, I would leave the tail end of one of those things long so that after a few hours , I can slide that saddle completely under my butt and use the tag end of tree strap as a back rest. It works for me, but I'm not too picky about comfort. I just wanted one more small way to adjust so I could stay all day
 
Marine Field Artilleryman turned seamstress; I'll consider it!

Actually, it would be tough to sell anything that I made. When a customer would come to pick up whatever it was that I sewed for them they would immediately turn away from my shop because I do quite a bit of swearing while sewing these dadgum saddles.

I'm trying my best to find some sort of 'shortcut' or anything to cut down the steps to make one, but I haven't found it yet. I'm here to tell you that whatever the companies charge for these ain't enough. They take time to make, but they are fun to make though...
 
My seams look like a drunken five year old did them. But they were fun to do. I only wish now, after the fact, that I had taken my time and made something that looks good as well as holds my scent blockered butt up in a tree. Good job on yours

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Awesome. Can you post a material list and maybe some dimensions for those of us who may attempt to borrow your design?
 
G2 (or anyone else) - here is some information from my saddle build. Someday I may end up sticking out of the ground like a camouflaged lawn dart because this is not a scientifically validated design. Be warned...

Parts list was pretty simple:
- 1000D Cordura
- My saddle used 15 feet (184 total inches) of 1 3/4" webbing that I purchased from Paragear (I used the same webbing that Redsquirrel used for his custom tree strap thread)
- (28 inches of) 7/8" black webbing for the Molle attachment strap
- foam padding (I used a sacrificed foam sleeping mat)
- Plastic buckle that I had on hand

My measurements:
- Padded seat portion is 7" high and 32" long. I used a circular object to shape the ends that had a diameter of ~4".
- Bridge hook up loops (as sewn) are just shy of 35". I overlapped the ends a full 12" on each end to form the loops. The total length for this piece of webbing for my saddle is 69".
- Molle webbing is sews at 1.5" intervals

Recommendations:
- The waist strap (with buckle) is not weight bearing - you don't need to use the heavy strap and I don't recommend using it because it is a P.I.T.A. to sew through multiple layers of the thick stuff.

My process - there are undoubtedly better ways to skin this cat...this is what I did to make this saddle.
- I start the process by cutting the padding to shape.
- Lay the padding on the cordura and Sharpie a line that extends 1/2" beyond the padding. This is the pattern line that I eventually sew to join the two pieces together. The cordura that I purchased has a rubber coating on one side - this is the side to draw on.
- I lay out the webbing and sew it in place on one side of the cordura.
- Be sure that the cordura is oriented correctly so that both rubber coated sides end up on the inside of the saddle and sew along the Sharpie(d) line. I sew mine inside-out and leave a long enough section open so that I can reach my hand inside to turn it inside out after it is sewn. I do this to keep the seam inside the saddle. If I could figure out how to sew an binding edge along the length I wouldn't do it this way.
- Insert the padding and sew the remaining circumference of the saddle.
- Head out to the garage and hang for a while from a bolt screwed into a stud and listen for ripping stitches.

PM me for my list of cuss words that seem to feel the best to yell out during this process. Many of them include 4 letters, but how you string them together seems to be just as important.
 
That's awesome. Thanks. I might try to make one myself instead of destroying and repurposing other equipment.
As far as the cussing, well I'm in construction. I'm pretty sure it's a requirement to be able to string together long lists of words (sometimes never before spoken words) in creative and infuriating ways

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Scott-- That looks really nice!

I'm working on acquiring some materials for a similar project. My goal is the ultimate ultralight saddle. I am evaluating and acquiring materials right now and I hope to work on it over the winter. I think you will be happy with that webbing. I used it to wrap around the tree and hang from it and it has held up well. It is pretty similar to the webbing that new tribe uses for the same purpose as you on their saddle. I am looking for a quieter alternative to cordura. I have a few samples coming in the mail so I can get my hands on them.

My version is going to be a little more similar to the aero hunter. The aero hunter is great, it is the best saddle I've hunted out of, but the fact that it is made to be adjusted to different size people and that it will always have to meet rigorous safety standards (i.e. the leg straps) to be marketed will probably hold it back from being my ideal saddle. Will I ever get the ideal saddle? I don't know but I'm having fun trying and I've learnt a lot about saddle designs in the meantime.

I'm going to keep this discussion to "soft" saddles. What I have learnt about soft saddles is there are three key elements to comfort: 2 butt straps and a lower back strap. This all came together for me when I was hanging in my modified anderson tree sling. The sling is most comfortable when I have both sections supporting my butt (like the photo I posted in the other thread), one further under the legs and the other back under the butt. This is basically what the new tribe seat portion does. When you wear the sling like this, it leaves you wanting a bit more support for comfort/safety if you lean back a bit. The aero hunter accomplishes this with their waist belt. I fixed this on my sling with just a piece of webbing run around to keep at this spot on my back and it worked great. The disadvantage of using the sling like this is that there are a lot of pieces to keep track of when you are putting it on and trying to get it set up. The aero hunter is basically this design except beefed up. I'm not a fan of the leg straps but they need to keep them in there for safety. So ultimately I plan on having some sort of bucket seat with a small waist band. The bucket seat will provide the support for hanging, the waist band will provide support for leaning back, to wear it in, and have the d loops attached to it.

Cordura on a saddle isn't anywhere near as loud as I thought it would be, but like I said, I'm looking for my ideal saddle so I'm trying to find some other materials :cool: .

Did you sew the entire thing using your machine? What type of thread did you use?
 
So you are looking for the Holy Grail of saddles?! Good luck. When you find it, post some pictures so that I can try to build it too!

Yes, I used my machine to sew the entire saddle. There are a couple small spots where I was plowing through 5 layers of that webbing. The machine can take it, but the foot that holds the material down couldn't depress because it was at the mechanical limits of how wide it could go. When going through multiple layers of webbing I have to spin the wheel on the machine by hand, the treadle belt would just slip otherwise.
Funny, but every sewing tip that I could find online suggested that you need a new needle for each project. I've used the same needle for about 3 different saddles now, and a couple other projects, mostly bags to hang on saddles.

My thread choice was based on my lack of patience. It isn't the best choice but I am confident that it will hold. I used the heaviest thread that a local store had in stock, it is an outdoor polyester thread from Coats and Clark. I really need to check out some other types of thread and learn more about it. On the other hand, I will probably make a couple more prior to next year, this one will suffice until then.

I have an idea in my head to alleviate the negative attributes of a soft saddle with a spreader bar that is only about 6"-8" long, it would connect where my carabineer attaches to my lead strap. I'll play with the idea for a while before I post it, it is purely a concept at this point. Until then, this is the only saddle that I intend to hunt with for the remainder of the season.
 
I just ordered a condor battle belt off eBay. I'm thinking of sewing a couple pieces of 2" webbing to reinforce the outer edges . One of them will be the belt strap with either a cam buckle or another type buckle. The other strap will meet the first strap at the hip corners and be sewn into loops there before being sewn around the bottom edge. . Maybe I'll even sew the two straps together outside the loops (one directly on top of the other) to make the belt strap.
Just another thing for me to tinker with. I'll let you know when I get it, after I sew these loops on

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Damn. That would have saved me a bunch of time! I think that your Condor belt will work perfectly.
As a matter of fact, I wanted to sew those loops on top as attachment points for suspenders but I forgot...
 
essdub said:
I just ordered a condor battle belt off eBay. I'm thinking of sewing a couple pieces of 2" webbing to reinforce the outer edges . One of them will be the belt strap with either a cam buckle or another type buckle. The other strap will meet the first strap at the hip corners and be sewn into loops there before being sewn around the bottom edge. . Maybe I'll even sew the two straps together outside the loops (one directly on top of the other) to make the belt strap.
Just another thing for me to tinker with. I'll let you know when I get it, after I sew these loops on

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Your on the right track if the belt is long enough. Thats how I started with a mole belt for my DIY. I quickly realized sitting on a single 2" belt that didn't run exactly down the center want very comfy. It spawned into 2 mole belts and (3) 2" belts by the time I was done. Given the shape of the condor, you could run the outside belts like you said and be ok I think.
 
Scott F said:
So you are looking for the Holy Grail of saddles?! Good luck. When you find it, post some pictures so that I can try to build it too!

Yes, I used my machine to sew the entire saddle. There are a couple small spots where I was plowing through 5 layers of that webbing. The machine can take it, but the foot that holds the material down couldn't depress because it was at the mechanical limits of how wide it could go. When going through multiple layers of webbing I have to spin the wheel on the machine by hand, the treadle belt would just slip otherwise.
Funny, but every sewing tip that I could find online suggested that you need a new needle for each project. I've used the same needle for about 3 different saddles now, and a couple other projects, mostly bags to hang on saddles.

My thread choice was based on my lack of patience. It isn't the best choice but I am confident that it will hold. I used the heaviest thread that a local store had in stock, it is an outdoor polyester thread from Coats and Clark. I really need to check out some other types of thread and learn more about it. On the other hand, I will probably make a couple more prior to next year, this one will suffice until then.

I have an idea in my head to alleviate the negative attributes of a soft saddle with a spreader bar that is only about 6"-8" long, it would connect where my carabineer attaches to my lead strap. I'll play with the idea for a while before I post it, it is purely a concept at this point. Until then, this is the only saddle that I intend to hunt with for the remainder of the season.
Here is some thread info. I have done a bunch of projects on my sewing machine but not an actual saddle yet. My little machine definitely seems to be working on more heavy duty projects with heavier thread than it is intended for. I just use the needle until I break it lol, which is inevitable. And of course I will post the holy grail if I ever find it! :lol:
 
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