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Rappelling 101
- Thread starter Patriot
- Start date
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I used to clip my pulldown carabiner to the standing end of the line on the loop side of the girth. Here is where I admitted my mistake.
Best place to clip your pull down line for rappel rope
Last week, I waited till after dark to rappel down and pack up since I could see the trail from the tree I was in so no bumbling in the woods finding my way out, or so I thought. I clipped my pull down line carabiner to my rope past the end of the figure eight loop as I always do as shown in...
saddlehunter.com
Stole this from @weekender21 post and scribbled on it.
As far as loosening the girth hitch, attaching at the orange mark will be best. If you’re not careful though, this can get your loop stuck in a crotch or something.
The red mark location sucks. Just hard to get loose.
Green location is best overall. Hitch loosens very well and you pull the loop down so it doesn’t drag into a crotch.
As far as loosening the girth hitch, attaching at the orange mark will be best. If you’re not careful though, this can get your loop stuck in a crotch or something.
The red mark location sucks. Just hard to get loose.
Green location is best overall. Hitch loosens very well and you pull the loop down so it doesn’t drag into a crotch.
Attachments
I had been girth hitching around trunks with no branches except higher up so anywhere that loosened the loop would work. I was just following the recommendation from the @JKline video. When I started throwing a weight over a crotch, I got my figure eight knot stuck in a narrow crotch by using my typical clip point. I switched to the green location since.
I got my grivel mono and my 40’ of oplux in today. Been playing with it at ground level around the house, and geez. That thing doesn’t create a ton of friction even with dual biners on it on the high friction side. Definitely not enough that I won’t be puckered up at height coming down with it. More practice I suppose. I’m hoping that a little wear on the rope will result in a little more friction.
What kind of carabiners is everyone using? I just gave it a whirl with some BD positron screwlocks for trying it out purposes. Is a rounded binder better?
And this may be a dumb question but for posterity sake....Is my holding of the rope pinned behind me in a rappel all that’s holding me, besides the autoblock? Seems like in my past memory of rappelling on rock, you could practically let go of the rope and the device locked off. Maybe a difference in devices. I’ll readily admit my ignorance about rappelling and climbing gear/jargon in general. None of this is taking place at height until I’m comfortable and trusting in my gear and ability. If I had a climbing gym within two hours of me, I’d get some instruction there, but ain’t feasible living in the sticks.
What kind of carabiners is everyone using? I just gave it a whirl with some BD positron screwlocks for trying it out purposes. Is a rounded binder better?
And this may be a dumb question but for posterity sake....Is my holding of the rope pinned behind me in a rappel all that’s holding me, besides the autoblock? Seems like in my past memory of rappelling on rock, you could practically let go of the rope and the device locked off. Maybe a difference in devices. I’ll readily admit my ignorance about rappelling and climbing gear/jargon in general. None of this is taking place at height until I’m comfortable and trusting in my gear and ability. If I had a climbing gym within two hours of me, I’d get some instruction there, but ain’t feasible living in the sticks.
Went to the local climbing gym and asked about some instruction for rappelling from a tree...Yeah, ummmm, we, ummm, that's not something, ummm, we arent certified for that. Good luck.
I would switch orange and red. Attaching to the loop itself simply requires a light flip of the tag end and the whole thing will come right on down.
Mileage may vary.... I’ve had the rope stuck and no amount of flipping, wiggling, shaking or dancing got it down.
In my experience, green mark is the most reliable spot overall.
Girth hitch a prussic to the orange part and pull the tag end up.
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No experience here, but just thinking out loud. What would stop you from hooking in 2 spots. Basically make a Y at the end of the rope you are pulling it down with. Probably very short leads on both parts of the Y. That way you could pull on both the green and the orange in your example. When 1 started to loosen then it would pull on the other. By changing your angle down below it would then change which side it pulled more from. May be a dumb idea, but just a thought.
Did you mean orange or red? If you tie a prusic to the orange spot i think you may end up tightening it further.
Not a bad idea. Not sure it’s worth it (for me) given how well my method works. This idea could be a best of both worlds but a more complicated pull rope.
I wholeheartedly agree with green being best. I despise orange because I want control of the knot and loop because that’s what’s going to get stuck 99.3% of the time.
I had a similar issue with the master mono and Oplux but I found and extra wrap on the autoblock did the trick. I think I got 5. With only 3 or 4 I could stop it but then it would start itself going again. If you aren’t stopping for anything though you could be fine. I use the Grivel mega twingate biner. Yes I think it being rounded and bigger helps, more surface area to create friction. If I didn’t already have one I’d try that Mad Rock hulk HMS at doublesteps.com.
I also saw where you can clip a second biner into the device through the guide hole. I guess it breaks the device over more to your left, creating more friction for a righty. Gonna test that out at ground level.
Thanks on the suggestions. I also have a big Petzl William I’m gonna try.
Thanks on the suggestions. I also have a big Petzl William I’m gonna try.
This is where I am as well. My Chuy and 9mm HTP hold well under a good load but the auto block with an extra wrap hold it very solid.
I would be stopping to remove a stick, but that's it.
When testing it, I was just a ground level and getting familiar with the device. Didn't have the autoblock backup on, so I was just trying it out with rope and ATC only.
After checking out this video, it makes better sense. My initial understanding was that it was simply a backup for fall restraint. I don't guess I understood that it functioned to create friction.
I attached a spring scale to the tag end of my rappel rope and pulled down with my weight in a saddle connected to my ATC. Five pounds of pressure was all it took to prevent me from descending. You can use a small force (5lbs )to control a larger force(175 lbs) on the ATC. Just like you can dig with a backhoe using very little force on the lever to control a large force at the bucket.
definitely need the autoblock