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Roll Up Rope Pouch Clone
- Thread starter 4090Sharps
- Start date
Mallard8629
Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2020
- Messages
- 76
I gotta have one. I love it!
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
beaston
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2019
- Messages
- 202
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2020
- Messages
- 654
Also curious about the mesh. Does ot have elastic properties or is it rigid?
I think it's better to have some elasticity.
This is the mesh I like for pack and pouch pockets.
Beige Desert Tan Military Mesh Tactical Nylon 52" Mil-Spec C-8061 Raschel Fabric | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Beige Desert Tan Military Mesh Tactical Nylon 52" Mil-Spec C-8061 Raschel Fabric at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Western VA Hunter
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2020
- Messages
- 103
Nice work!
Speedfreek48
Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2017
- Messages
- 64
Things like this is why I’ve been researching sewing machines and learning to see!
Hunter260
Well-Known Member
I finally got the courage to post my own diy rope pouch clone..... Don’t laugh too hard, I can’t sew for nothin.
YESSSSSS!!!!
plumber423
New Member
These are amazing and I want to try my luck. Can someone post the material list
Happy new year everyone
Pete
Happy new year everyone
Pete
For me it's (probably unnecessary) peace of mind and aesthetics. I like knowing that there are multiple layers of cordura anchoring my webbing in place. I also like having the ends of the webbing tucked away. It looks clean, minimizes chances for snags, and keeps the webbing from rubbing the mesh on my saddle.
Materials List:
*note* These are minimums and do not account for waste in cuts.
10x15" Mesh - A $10 yard will go far
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beige-Dese...2-Mil-Spec-C-8061-Raschel-Fabric/282614989989
10x36.75" Fabric - 500D cordura is a good, tough choice
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coyote-Bro...litary-Nylon-DWR-Fabric-By-Yard/272335751993?
2 or 3 G-Hooks - I prefer the wave type
https://www.rockywoods.com/G-Hook-wave-1-Slot-Size-Heat-Treated-Steel-Berry-Compliant-Coyote-Brown
2 ITW 1" Rounded Oval Slide
https://doublesteps.com/product/itw-1-rounded-oval-slide/
20" #8 Coil YKK Zipper (1.5" wide tape)
https://www.rockywoods.com/8-Coil-YKK-Zipper-by-the-Yard
2 #8 YKK Slider for Coil Zipper
https://www.rockywoods.com/Metal-slider-with-pull-for-8-Coil-YKK-Zipper
52" Mil-Spec Style 5038 1" Grosgrain Ribbon (the textured has a softer feel, isn't as stiff)
https://www.rockywoods.com/1-Grosgrain-Ribbon-Mil-Spec-Style-5038-Textured
https://www.rockywoods.com/1-Grosgrain-Ribbon-Mil-Spec-Style-5038
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-TAN-499-Nylon-Tape-Webbing-NEW-/233710695002
54" Mil-Spec 17337 (or similar) 1" Nylon Webbing
https://www.rockywoods.com/1-Nylon-Webbing?color=3
Paracord for zipper pulls, if desired
https://www.rockywoods.com/550-Parachute-Cord-Coyote-Brown
Good thread. I used Gutermann Tera 40
https://www.rockywoods.com/Gutermann-TERA-40-Polyester-Thread?color=9
*note* These are minimums and do not account for waste in cuts.
10x15" Mesh - A $10 yard will go far
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beige-Dese...2-Mil-Spec-C-8061-Raschel-Fabric/282614989989
10x36.75" Fabric - 500D cordura is a good, tough choice
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coyote-Bro...litary-Nylon-DWR-Fabric-By-Yard/272335751993?
2 or 3 G-Hooks - I prefer the wave type
https://www.rockywoods.com/G-Hook-wave-1-Slot-Size-Heat-Treated-Steel-Berry-Compliant-Coyote-Brown
2 ITW 1" Rounded Oval Slide
https://doublesteps.com/product/itw-1-rounded-oval-slide/
20" #8 Coil YKK Zipper (1.5" wide tape)
https://www.rockywoods.com/8-Coil-YKK-Zipper-by-the-Yard
2 #8 YKK Slider for Coil Zipper
https://www.rockywoods.com/Metal-slider-with-pull-for-8-Coil-YKK-Zipper
52" Mil-Spec Style 5038 1" Grosgrain Ribbon (the textured has a softer feel, isn't as stiff)
https://www.rockywoods.com/1-Grosgrain-Ribbon-Mil-Spec-Style-5038-Textured
https://www.rockywoods.com/1-Grosgrain-Ribbon-Mil-Spec-Style-5038
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-TAN-499-Nylon-Tape-Webbing-NEW-/233710695002
54" Mil-Spec 17337 (or similar) 1" Nylon Webbing
https://www.rockywoods.com/1-Nylon-Webbing?color=3
Paracord for zipper pulls, if desired
https://www.rockywoods.com/550-Parachute-Cord-Coyote-Brown
Good thread. I used Gutermann Tera 40
https://www.rockywoods.com/Gutermann-TERA-40-Polyester-Thread?color=9
Last edited:
How To (Part 1):
Here are my machines, which are admittedly overkill for this project. A Juki 1541S, Consew 206RB-2 (soon to be traded to @Western VA Hunter ), and a pre-WW2 Singer 112W140.
A note when laying out your material... Make sure you have it oriented properly. Both your fabric (if it has a pattern), and the mesh--you want it to stretch top to bottom. The zippers are cut to 10" long each, then split apart. The lengths noted for webbing below have an option in parentheses for only one outer closure G-hook, similar to Carl's in the YouTube video.
After cutting out my materials, I set up my binder and run each piece of the front panel to a section of zipper. Remember to face the good faces of the materials toward each other.
Next I fold the bound edge under, and sew the edge back to the fabric/mesh.
Zip your front panel pieces together.
Here are my machines, which are admittedly overkill for this project. A Juki 1541S, Consew 206RB-2 (soon to be traded to @Western VA Hunter ), and a pre-WW2 Singer 112W140.
A note when laying out your material... Make sure you have it oriented properly. Both your fabric (if it has a pattern), and the mesh--you want it to stretch top to bottom. The zippers are cut to 10" long each, then split apart. The lengths noted for webbing below have an option in parentheses for only one outer closure G-hook, similar to Carl's in the YouTube video.
After cutting out my materials, I set up my binder and run each piece of the front panel to a section of zipper. Remember to face the good faces of the materials toward each other.
Next I fold the bound edge under, and sew the edge back to the fabric/mesh.
Zip your front panel pieces together.
Last edited:
How To (Part 2):
Now we can move on to the back panel. First sew the top and bottom piece of the back panel to the middle layer along the outer edges, wrong faces toward one another.
You will use the pairs of 5.5" and 6.25" webbing for this next step. Place the oval sliders on the 5.5" pieces and sew them 5/8" from the edge, with the bottom of the webbing aligned with the bottom of the back panel top section. If you are using two G-hooks for your outer closure, sew the 6.25" pieces of webbing butted up to the 5.5" piece. If you are only using one G-hook, center the single 6.25" piece.
Once both pairs of webbing have been secured, fold the 10x10" middle back panel section down 3/4" at the top. Align the bottom edge of the folded section with the bottom of the top piece, covering where the webbing has been sewn down. Sew the left and right edges down at this overlapping section to secure this alignment. Next sew two horizonal parallel rows of stitching to secure the middle section over the webbing.
Secure the two 8.25" sections of webbing 1 5/8" from the left and right sides (one, centered if single G-hook), with roughly 1/4" of webbing extended beyond the top edge of the bottom back panel. Fold the bottom of the middle section over 1/2", and sew a single row of stitching across the seam.
For nice aesthetics, this next step is critical, and basting tape is useful to hold your work in place. We're going to attach the front panel to the middle and back panels using the bottom seam in the back panel, and the top edge of the bottom zipper for alignment.
With these pieces aligned, flip the work back over, and sew a nice row of stitching parallel to the row we just made. If you don't extend your webbing beyond the edge of the bottom section, as noted a couple steps back, your needle will probably try to veer off to the side.
I'll try to wrap this up tomorrow, but the rest is fairly straight forward:
- MAKE SURE YOU PUT YOUR ZIPPER SLIDERS ON NOW!
- Run a row of stitching around the entire perimeter. The mesh is cut long, so you have to push it together to fit the length. This give your pockets more volume, and since it's mesh, it doesn't bunch when you do this.
- Add binding around the edges
- Add the loop and G-hook for your rope
Now we can move on to the back panel. First sew the top and bottom piece of the back panel to the middle layer along the outer edges, wrong faces toward one another.
You will use the pairs of 5.5" and 6.25" webbing for this next step. Place the oval sliders on the 5.5" pieces and sew them 5/8" from the edge, with the bottom of the webbing aligned with the bottom of the back panel top section. If you are using two G-hooks for your outer closure, sew the 6.25" pieces of webbing butted up to the 5.5" piece. If you are only using one G-hook, center the single 6.25" piece.
Once both pairs of webbing have been secured, fold the 10x10" middle back panel section down 3/4" at the top. Align the bottom edge of the folded section with the bottom of the top piece, covering where the webbing has been sewn down. Sew the left and right edges down at this overlapping section to secure this alignment. Next sew two horizonal parallel rows of stitching to secure the middle section over the webbing.
Secure the two 8.25" sections of webbing 1 5/8" from the left and right sides (one, centered if single G-hook), with roughly 1/4" of webbing extended beyond the top edge of the bottom back panel. Fold the bottom of the middle section over 1/2", and sew a single row of stitching across the seam.
For nice aesthetics, this next step is critical, and basting tape is useful to hold your work in place. We're going to attach the front panel to the middle and back panels using the bottom seam in the back panel, and the top edge of the bottom zipper for alignment.
With these pieces aligned, flip the work back over, and sew a nice row of stitching parallel to the row we just made. If you don't extend your webbing beyond the edge of the bottom section, as noted a couple steps back, your needle will probably try to veer off to the side.
I'll try to wrap this up tomorrow, but the rest is fairly straight forward:
- MAKE SURE YOU PUT YOUR ZIPPER SLIDERS ON NOW!
- Run a row of stitching around the entire perimeter. The mesh is cut long, so you have to push it together to fit the length. This give your pockets more volume, and since it's mesh, it doesn't bunch when you do this.
- Add binding around the edges
- Add the loop and G-hook for your rope
beaston
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2019
- Messages
- 202
Great write up @4090Sharps you are a skilled thread injector. Im on my third pouch using your pattern which is way better than any pouches I've seen both aesthetically and quality/strength. Can't say at this point the amount of time for me to put one together and materials to build is what guys want to pay. Easily worth 75 plus shipping. Thanks for the time you take to help fellow saddlehunters.
Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk
plumber423
New Member
That is amazing. Thank you very much for your time with this @4090Sharps
Dunmore
New Member
@4090Sharps, you are my hero. This build has really gotten me into the DIY aspect of building my own soft-gear! Picks of my pouch to be posted soon!
@4090Sharps Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to put it together!
Thank you for the kind words, I'm really glad you guys found this useful!
There are undoubtedly other--probably more clever--ways to construct this pouch that can make construction simpler, faster, or even more durable. However, all in all, if you build the pouch as shown here, it should look decent and hold up pretty well.
There are undoubtedly other--probably more clever--ways to construct this pouch that can make construction simpler, faster, or even more durable. However, all in all, if you build the pouch as shown here, it should look decent and hold up pretty well.