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Short Bridge
- Thread starter ww874
- Start date
I have done these several ways. The easiest is to take some rated climbing line and tie scaffold knots to both bridge loops. I have also done that to one side and then tied a carabiner on the other end to make it openable and only there when I need it. You can also take spliced rope and girth hitch one loop and put some type of friction hitch with a tender on the other. Dogbones and sewn runners work fine as well, I just prefer rope. I would just make sure whatever you use is rated for climbing and not something made of Amsteel by some random person on Facebook.
The exact length will really need to be determined by you, your body profile, and your application.
The exact length will really need to be determined by you, your body profile, and your application.
That would work but I would not personally want the Kong Duck on my bridge since it is not something you are moving in and out a whole lot of the time. There would also just be some additional length and fiddle there among the potential for knocking it open on accident while climbing since it would be potentially close to your body and arms. If your linesman's has a loop you could girth hitch that on one side and then get some cord and make a friction hitch on the other. Personally once I get my length figured out, however, I just like to tie it directly to the loop or a short carabiner and not worry about needing to adjust it all the time.
Good points. I have a crizr saddle and I added a carabiner to my regular bridge because I hate stepping through them. My lineman's belt has a loop but I think you're right about just making a dedicated short bridge with a carabiner on one side or even both sides.
In that instance, using one carabiner I would orient it in the opposite direction so it doesn't try to run into your main bridge carabiner and make noise or cause other issues. I have been using this carabiner to keep a lower profile: https://monarchrope.com/dmm-director-yoke-with-rope-spacer/
TreeRecon
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2023
- Messages
- 272
That sounds like a bad idea. If you want to SRT on a shorter bridge, tie a second bridge properly and with (new) climbing line. Don't make it "openable", even though all the cool guys on YouTube are doing it
TreeRecon
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2023
- Messages
- 272
Just another area that you need to remember, inspect, make sure you aren't side loading etc etc. Of course this is just my opinion and we can do what we want with recreational activities. But I'm a firm believer in keeping life safety areas simple.
Stop watching Staggs in the Wild!
Stepping through your bridge is NO BIG DEAL!!!
I have a secondary bridge on all of my saddles and they're all tied different.
There is a hundred different ways you can do it...
I guess to each his own. To me stepping through a bridge is just a royal PITA. I couldn't imagine having to do that dance after using the open bridge this past year. I totally agree about keeping things simple but that's one extra I'm willing to accept. The reason I figured I could use my lineman's was so I'd have 1 less rope to carry. Probably going to take your advice about using new line for a shorter bridge. (but it's probably gonna have an auto locking carabiner on one side.
Here is a few of my saddles. Hopefully you can decifer the secondary bridges? (they are below my main bridge)
. But I do enjoy this new hobby of climbing and this site is definitely addictive. I've learned alot from follow members and I appreciate all the advice I've been given.
The one in the middle ^^^ is really easy to make!
You could do that AND make it 'openable' if you wanted to.
I used Follow Through Figure Eight knots on each end. You could do that and use a carabiner on one side no problem!
You could do that AND make it 'openable' if you wanted to.
I used Follow Through Figure Eight knots on each end. You could do that and use a carabiner on one side no problem!
The bottom one is actually Latitude's factory bridge .
It sucks from the factory but you can re-tie it better. (witch I did)
Top bridge is custom... *thumbs up*
It sucks from the factory but you can re-tie it better. (witch I did)
Top bridge is custom... *thumbs up*
This is what I did for my short bridge I added that I use for SRT climbing only. I bought a Metolius PAS shown here: https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pas_personal_anchor_system.html
I cut off the first small loop from the long one and only use the long one. This piece is designed to be girth hitched and after doing so, it is the perfect length for a short SRT bridge. It is basically a dog bone however a dog bone would need biners on both ends whereas this piece only requires a single biner because one side is made to be girth hitched. I added a Fusion rappel ring over it so its like an arborist saddle bridge and then use a locking biner on the other end to connect it to the other lineman's loop on my saddle. My main bridge is openable with a biner as well so I have the biners on opposite sides as someone mentioned above.
I cut off the first small loop from the long one and only use the long one. This piece is designed to be girth hitched and after doing so, it is the perfect length for a short SRT bridge. It is basically a dog bone however a dog bone would need biners on both ends whereas this piece only requires a single biner because one side is made to be girth hitched. I added a Fusion rappel ring over it so its like an arborist saddle bridge and then use a locking biner on the other end to connect it to the other lineman's loop on my saddle. My main bridge is openable with a biner as well so I have the biners on opposite sides as someone mentioned above.
