Truck build

[Center Punch]

Main goal is door protection and a place I can use the farm jack on the side of the truck..... and a step I guess

Next time I make it to where the crawler truck is I'll measure and see how difficult it will be to cut out and reuse the rectangle tube.

The round pipe best for sliding off stuff and deformation/denting but it's not that important as long as it's fairly strong structure and the material thickness withstand some hits. It's gonna bend/dent someday....I just want the doors to function as long as possible

Can you brace the areas in between the 'standard' two attachment points on each end? For instance, have four attachment points to give them more beef.

Do folks still call them nerf bars?

 

[thedutchtouch]

Can you brace the areas in between the 'standard' two attachment points on each end? For instance, have four attachment points to give them more beef.

Do folks still call them nerf bars?

I've always thought of nerf bars as the side steps /fake sliders, where it's sometimes mounted to the body and more for looks or stepping up into the truck than protection, and rock sliders where they are frame mounted/actually supposed to be slid on things to protect the doors.

 

[Weldabeast]

Is that other one a 74?

Blue 76 ....brown 79

Can you brace the areas in between the 'standard' two attachment points on each end? For instance, have four attachment points to give them more beef.

Do folks still call them nerf bars?

Dutchtouch explained it well.

The frame on this truck actually has very little hanging below the bottom of the cab. So I don't really have much room to attach straight off the frame. I'll probably only end up with 2 points of attachment.

 

[Weldabeast]

I looked for well over a year to find a topper for the Nissan that didn't have an outrageous pricetag. Seemed like every used topper that was in my price range was for a full size 8ft bed. I ended up driving 1.5 South to get the 1 i finally found...... Now that I'm looking for an 8ft topper every single used 1 that I'm finding is for small trucks or 6ft full size beds. It's almost comical.

 

[Weldabeast]

This 1s for all of us who have sliding back windows. U all know how much of POS the dorman replacements are. I've had a strategically bent paperclip keeping my window "locked" for a while now.

Everything we touch we must improve..... Copy and paste for a metal replacement.


C.R. LAURENCE DVL2 CRL Replacement Metal Backslider Latch


I didn't have to modify the latch at all but did have to use the included screws. I would have rather used OEM but I would have had to make some tiny little spacers....using the other screws that came with the latch wallered out the holes cutting new threads....but it's on there and strong. Improvement over stock

 

[Weldabeast]

I still need to mount the lightbar and run wiring front and back, decide where to mount the toggles but that not very high priority. The starter is high priority....the 1 that's on there isn't gonna be alive much longer based on the noises it's started making. I started poking around in the garage and found a high torque from a 302/5.0 auto......luckily for me there's only 2 starters for our Ford's. Four cylinder to big block, gas or diesel, 1964-1997 there's only 2 part #s

Starter Interchange

Shows what starters will interchange between Ford truck & engine combinations from 1964 to 1997.

www.garysgaragemahal.com

I found these stainless.braided brake lines while I was looking for the starter. I can't remember what the original purpose is/was. I think they were on my 92 ranger? Not sure if they gonna just bolt right on but they will be going on there soon. The factory rubber lines are all rotted and need to be replaced sooner rather than later.