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bridge idea

JFin15

JFin15

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
455
Location
Central AL
Note: I usually end up making things harder on myself than they need to be. So heres what im trying to do: A) retain the ability to choose where my bridge sits in the bridge loop(I prefer it low). B) acquire the ability to unhook my bridge from one side for walking. Im currently using an adjustable webbing bridge with 2 hd sliders. This works pretty well but im becoming annoyed with the clutter of it all plus I still have my stock amsteel bridge however im about ready to take a knife to it. So I had two ideas in how to achieve this and hopefully someone has a better solution that ive missed in my searching. 1) use some rope and tie a cinch knot onto one bridge loop on one end and tie a biner to the other end so I can clip into and out of my webbing bridge on that side and cinch it down wherever I prefer. 2) Make a rope bridge, probably oplux, and use zipties or some other knot on the bridge loops to keep it from sliding up. I was thinking if I wrap a rope bridge around the bridge loop twice that may keep it from sliding up but I havent had time to try it. Im sure theres an obvious solution so someone tell me what it is!! Thanks in advance
 

3:30 he uses a prusik for an adjustable bridge. He hard attaches to both sides I believe but all you would need to do is add a carabiner if you want to remove it for walking in. His is simply long enough to throw over his head.
 
I use a hybrid bridge/tether similar to @Nutterbuster. It consists of 7' of 1" climb spec tube webbing, a austrialpin frame release d ring, 3.5" of climb spec tube webbing and two wire gate beiners. (I'm aware of the safety issue with the the wire gates, but they work for me and are rate at 22kn, I choose this for my set as I am constantly aware of my loading). Its ultra light, easy to pack very adjustable and simply works for me.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/184625207@N07/
20191027_115939 | by michael.p.davis170
https://www.flickr.com/photos/184625207@N07/with/48968731892/



 
ThePennsylvanian said:
I use a hybrid bridge/tether similar to @Nutterbuster. It consists of 7' of 1" climb spec tube webbing, a austrialpin frame release d ring, 3.5" of climb spec tube webbing and two wire gate beiners. (I'm aware of the safety issue with the the wire gates, but they work for me and are rate at 22kn, I choose this for my set as I am constantly aware of my loading). Its ultra light, easy to pack very adjustable and simply works for me.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/184625207@N07/
20191027_115939 | by michael.p.davis170
https://www.flickr.com/photos/184625207@N07/with/48968731892/



Click to expand...


So your tether is a 1” tubing cut to 7 foot and your bridge is the same material cut to 3.5’. You use that cobra thing for a tether length adjuster. That’s an interesting set up.
 
Why are you using an overhand knot instead of a water knot for webbing? Seems a bit sketchy to me.
 
EE022A77-36D6-40D4-8A6C-FA82A5CCCBFB.png

And your system is only as good as your weakest link. Which in this case would be the webbing rated at 17.7 kN, which would be a good bit less after you tie your knots. Not that i am saying it is unsafe....
 
gcr0003 said:
Why are you using an overhand knot instead of a water knot for webbing? Seems a bit sketchy to me.
Click to expand...
Well it's a single piece of webbing, so a water knot wouldn't apply in this situation, and all of the knots on the setup are overhand on a bight, not just overhand they would slide with just an overhand. Plus I can easily identify knot movement with the tag end visible.
 
ThePennsylvanian said:
Well it's a single piece of webbing, so a water knot wouldn't apply in this situation, and all of the knots on the setup are overhand on a bight, not just overhand they would slide with just an overhand. Plus I can easily identify knot movement with the tag end visible.
Click to expand...
What does over hand on a bight mean? And I a water knot Can be applied here. FB5D6CA4-1944-42DC-A9CC-086F6BA79B97.png
 
*again this setup works for me*
I check my gear before I hunt, every time. Even @ 17.7kn that's 3980lbs. The risk is minimal in the manner it is used. It will never be used to stop a fall, i just dont have it setup that way.
To note as well, I am not attempting to convince anyone to use this setup. I am simply presenting it to show different ideas in bridge and tether setups.
 
ThePennsylvanian said:
*again this setup works for me*
I check my gear before I hunt, every time. Even @ 17.7kn that's 3980lbs. The risk is minimal in the manner it is used. It will never be used to stop a fall, i just dont have it setup that way.
To note as well, I am not attempting to convince anyone to use this setup. I am simply presenting it to show different ideas in bridge and tether setups.
Click to expand...


I wasn't try to knock your set up, looking back it definitely came across that way. I use the same webbing from REI on my sticks and when I first debated on using it I looked up knots and specs and such. When I saw how you had yours set up I wanted to know why. What is that Cobra thing you are using. What part of west PA are you from? My mom and her folks are from Williamsport.
 
@ThePennsylvanian I debated on using the webbing for a tether, if I can get a hold of one of those cobra things I just might try it. The older trophyline I tried used webbing and I felt it had less tendency to fall or slip on the tree. Also, as you noted, very light and packs well.
 
As far as I am concerned the knots used by @ThePennsylvanian are correct in this application. The overhand and water knot are the same knot (structurewise). In this case, the overhand on a bight is what I want in order to create the loops for the carabiners. Using the water knot as illustrated above would tend to separate the webbing when under tension, possibly causing the knot to roll.
 
pesqimon said:
As far as I am concerned the knots used by @ThePennsylvanian are correct in this application. The overhand and water knot are the same knot (structurewise). In this case, the overhand on a bight is what I want in order to create the loops for the carabiners. Using the water knot as illustrated above would tend to separate the webbing when under tension, possibly causing the knot to roll.
Click to expand...

The overhand makes a great knot for the application and is easier to tie no doubt. I wasn't saying he was wrong for using it. I simple asked why he was using it. I asked a similar question no long ago and got over whelming majority of comments recommending to use the water not (ring bend). I prefer the overhand knot typically, but with the webbing I couldnt get it from trying to back out. Thats why I mentioned that with as short as his tag ends appeared it looked sketchy to me. I think if I go back to it ill add a extra regular overhand knot on the tag end for assurance. As far as separating the webbing under tension I am not sure what you mean?
 
Not finding a good example, but if you take the image above, imagine one end being pulled across the bridge, towards the tether (T) and the loop being pulled towards the bridge loop (B). The webbing entering the knot on the same side as the tether end will be pulled away, forces acting to separate the webbing and rolling the knot towards the remaining tag end.


1575992586670.png
 
pesqimon said:
Not finding a good example, but if you take the image above, imagine one end being pulled across the bridge, towards the tether (T) and the loop being pulled towards the bridge loop (B). The webbing entering the knot on the same side as the tether end will be pulled away, forces acting to separate the webbing and rolling the knot towards the remaining tag end.


View attachment 21843
Click to expand...
Yea I am not really following your example. I would think you could use this loop anywhere @ThePennsylvanian was using the overhand bight knot. I think we might just be talking past each other. I will say that I haven't seen any rolling or sliping of this knot that would suggest it falling over the tag end. Again, I am not recommending the water knot over the overhand bight for this application or vise versa.
 
Here is how did it. Basically tied in the webbing on the left bridge loop. For the critics it is a figure 8 on a bite with an additional stopper knot due to excess slack on the tail end. Then I used a tri-glide to a carabiner to keep it adjustable. In the near future I will just tie into the carabiner and remove the tri-glide once I figure out the length I like
EDBC44F9-AC14-4C15-8575-C23D94780468.jpeg
 
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