Grizzlystik broadheads (arrow build time :)

[Weldabeast]

I’ve used both the GrizzlyStik Masai heads and the Silver Flames you mentioned as well as the Cutthroat 150 RH bevel heads. All have spun really well out of the package and fly well too, the one thing that made me switch to Iron Wills was the ability or inability to resharpen the heads effectively which in my opinion is hugely important if your going to spend big money for 3 broadheads. The cutthroats design makes them tricky to fit in a KME or Wicked Edge vise style sharpener, although the steal is so soft (56HRC) that it’s not bad to do by hand. Single bevels are notorious for holding good edge geometry for a “few” resharpening sessions and then they start morphing into a new shape with a more rounded off tip - especially the Cutthroats. The Grizzlystiks are a little harder so edge retention is a little bit better. I merry my Iron Wills with Day Six shafts and I don’t see myself switching systems for a long time and my customers are doing the same lately.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed... I think about blade shape and the ease of resharpening when buying knives and broadheads....

 

[Kurt]

I’ve used both the GrizzlyStik Masai heads and the Silver Flames you mentioned as well as the Cutthroat 150 RH bevel heads. All have spun really well out of the package and fly well too, the one thing that made me switch to Iron Wills was the ability or inability to resharpen the heads effectively which in my opinion is hugely important if your going to spend big money for 3 broadheads. The cutthroats design makes them tricky to fit in a KME or Wicked Edge vise style sharpener, although the steal is so soft (56HRC) that it’s not bad to do by hand. Single bevels are notorious for holding good edge geometry for a “few” resharpening sessions and then they start morphing into a new shape with a more rounded off tip - especially the Cutthroats. The Grizzlystiks are a little harder so edge retention is a little bit better. I merry my Iron Wills with Day Six shafts and I don’t see myself switching systems for a long time and my customers are doing the same lately.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Iron Wills are a good looking broadhead. Thanks.

 

[michigandrake]

I was thinking with my bow at 70# having arrows in the mid 500s.

Should go through any deer you shot at, just make sure you can live with the trajectory. Get some heavy field points before you buy your broadheads and test a few setups.

 

[DaWiz9578]

I reached out to the ranch fairy for some guidance. Don't think hed mind me posting it on here. I've been cyber building an arrow just to get an idea of where I'm going heres his responses

RF
"I’d recommend the ranch fairy special
300 spine arrow
100 grain insert
125 grain broadhead. Don’t over look the Magnus black Hornet Ser razor.
If you need any “not so humble advice” let me know!!!"

Me
"Couple things Ive been stuck on.

- Threaded vs glue on. If threaded, is the threading considered a weak point? Read that in the ashby studies I believe. If so, would you beef it up with a brass insert (does it provide structural substantial structural improvement as well as weight) and call it good or should you get some sort of outsert? Or would the outsert only be needed for aluminum or glue on?

- Is it better to have the weight in the broadhead, or is putting some weight back in the insert fine? I know you just recommended a weighted insert, but just something Ive been wondering. I was looking at the tuffheads and the 265 meatheads will be back on the shelves in january they said, and was thinking I wouldnt need the weighted insert necessarily. Was planning to slowly bump it up with the goldtip FACT system and see how it shot. Or would it be better to split the weight between broadhead and insert?

- Should I go bare shaft, knock/insert tune, then fletch according to the knock position? Or will getting fletched arrows provide enough wiggle room to get it reasonably close.

- Is hot melt sufficient or should I glue everything? Just assume this will be a learning curve and rather have something I can mess around with a little easier if no structural integrity is lost.

Thanks man. Appreciate the timely responses!"

RF

"Here’s the easiest thing - get your arrows right first!!

Buy (2) 300’s and (2) 250 spine arrows you like (shop has easy) and have stock inserts installed.

Then do this.

You can get the heavy field point kit at ethics archery.

Once you have a “recipe” you can run heavy broadhead or insert and lighter broadhead.

It’s like a recipe. But you want a normal weight arrow and all the rest of the weight up front. Don’t buy intentionally “heavy” shafts.

We’ll worry about glue on and screw in later!!

Bare shaft nock tune with random points. Both arrow spines.

Holler if you need more help. One step at a time"

Hope this helps kurt










Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Weldabeast]

Hot melt works great

 

[swampsnyper]

I was going on my 1st bear hunt and using a 50# tradbow with a 25in draw length and had some concerns. I read all of the grizzlystik site's info and called them to order. The lady I spoke with sounded like a salesman. There was never a test done with my DL and Poundage with posted results but it was obvious she was reading from a notebook to recommend an arrow. That would work with a compound because you have a lot of adjustments but lots of factors change arrow spine recommendations for a tradbow. I know my bow and what spine I could get to work with my tip weights, so I didn't take her recommendation and bought the spine I thought would work. Good thing because I had to use full shafts to make them work. Their suggestion wouldn't have been close to working with the tip weight I wanted. For the cost of the arrows, there wasn't anything magical about them to justify their cost. I feel the same about their broadheads. Anyway, here is a penetration test I did before my hunt.

Arrow penetration test.

Anyone ever do any kind of penetration test before. I’ve read the Ashby test years ago and keep going back to them. With my short draw length on a recurve I need all the help I can get. Got a bear hunt coming up so I been playing around. Seen a similar test with a barrel on leather wall. Figured...

saddlehunter.com

Here is a video on how much pressure it takes to puncture hide with different broadheads.

I feel that grizzlystiks are good but over priced and hyped up for what they are. I switched back to axis. The Ashby forged head https://www.grizzlystik.com/Ashby-315-Broadheadsbr-3-Pack-P1622.aspx has everything I'd like a broadhead to be except the price. It would be great for a high powered bow on an elephant, but for my slow tradbow the grizzly single bevels are plenty strong enough.
My thought on building an arrow is it has to be tuned for the bow. That arrow has to be flying straight, pushing all the force straight through the tip of the broadhead. Any wobble or kicking will lose energy that should be pushing through the tip. Next of importance is a cut on contact tip and broadhead that won't bend. Once it bends or breaks, you lose that straight push of energy. Then that broadhead has to be attached to the arrow just as secure and tough as the broadhead itself. Your system is as strong as the weakest link. If the arrow, insert, or broadhead breaks or bends, you lose that forward energy.

I use 150gr grizzly single-bevel glue on broadheads because the screw on heads use an aluminum screw-in adapter that I've had break in the past.

Grizzly Bruin Glue-On Broadheads

Check out the deal on Grizzly Bruin Glue-On Broadheads at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

100gr Steel screw-on adapter

Steel Screw-In Broadhead Adapters

Check out the deal on Steel Screw-In Broadhead Adapters at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

Axis shafts 500s with break off brass HIT inserts set at 75gr.

Easton Axis Brass HIT Break-Off Inserts 75/50 gr, 12-pack

Check out the deal on Easton Axis Brass HIT Break-Off Inserts 75/50 gr, 12-pack at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

And I build a 2in footer out of these aluminum shafts that brace everything on the business end together. Everything behind my footing is just there as a rudder to steer the arrow.

Easton XX75 Tribute Arrow Shafts

• Durable, accurate and economical • The stepping stone to high performance for any beginning or shorter draw, lighter poundage archer • Constructed with Easton's proprietary XX75 alloy • Hard-anodized black finish • Guaranteed Straightness: ± .005" • Weight Tolerance: ± 2% • Precision-ground...

www.lancasterarchery.com

My finished arrow is about 25 3/4 long, weighing 600gr. I never checked the FOC. I'm not set on a specific FOC but I'm guessing its close to 20%. I recently chipped the side of the leg bone on a good size hog and the broadhead exited out the opposite arm pit at 20 yards. As he ran, the opposite leg slightly bent my steel broadhead adaptor. Only could tell from spinning it when I put it on a new arrow to use again. The front leg snapped my arrow and the rest of my arrow somehow worked its way back out. When I found him, 50 yards from the shot, the broadhead was almost completely worked out of the entry hole. He snapped the arrow at the shot. The tail end was right there. I did shoot through a palmetto that was up against him. I'm guessing he was lunging forward at the shot and the bone movement on my shaft stopped it from a complete pass though. But I had 2 holes. Can't complain about that. I'm very satisfied with this set up.

 

[tyson12590]

I was going on my 1st bear hunt and using a 50# tradbow with a 25in draw length and had some concerns. I read all of the grizzlystik site's info and called them to order. The lady I spoke with sounded like a salesman. There was never a test done with my DL and Poundage with posted results but it was obvious she was reading from a notebook to recommend an arrow. That would work with a compound because you have a lot of adjustments but lots of factors change arrow spine recommendations for a tradbow. I know my bow and what spine I could get to work with my tip weights, so I didn't take her recommendation and bought the spine I thought would work. Good thing because I had to use full shafts to make them work. Their suggestion wouldn't have been close to working with the tip weight I wanted. For the cost of the arrows, there wasn't anything magical about them to justify their cost. I feel the same about their broadheads. Anyway, here is a penetration test I did before my hunt.

Arrow penetration test.

Anyone ever do any kind of penetration test before. I’ve read the Ashby test years ago and keep going back to them. With my short draw length on a recurve I need all the help I can get. Got a bear hunt coming up so I been playing around. Seen a similar test with a barrel on leather wall. Figured...

saddlehunter.com

Here is a video on how much pressure it takes to puncture hide with different broadheads.

I feel that grizzlystiks are good but over priced and hyped up for what they are. I switched back to axis. The Ashby forged head https://www.grizzlystik.com/Ashby-315-Broadheadsbr-3-Pack-P1622.aspx has everything I'd like a broadhead to be except the price. It would be great for a high powered bow on an elephant, but for my slow tradbow the grizzly single bevels are plenty strong enough.
My thought on building an arrow is it has to be tuned for the bow. That arrow has to be flying straight, pushing all the force straight through the tip of the broadhead. Any wobble or kicking will lose energy that should be pushing through the tip. Next of importance is a cut on contact tip and broadhead that won't bend. Once it bends or breaks, you lose that straight push of energy. Then that broadhead has to be attached to the arrow just as secure and tough as the broadhead itself. Your system is as strong as the weakest link. If the arrow, insert, or broadhead breaks or bends, you lose that forward energy.

I use 150gr grizzly single-bevel glue on broadheads because the screw on heads use an aluminum screw-in adapter that I've had break in the past.

Grizzly Bruin Glue-On Broadheads

Check out the deal on Grizzly Bruin Glue-On Broadheads at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

100gr Steel screw-on adapter

Steel Screw-In Broadhead Adapters

Check out the deal on Steel Screw-In Broadhead Adapters at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

Axis shafts 500s with break off brass HIT inserts set at 75gr.

Easton Axis Brass HIT Break-Off Inserts 75/50 gr, 12-pack

Check out the deal on Easton Axis Brass HIT Break-Off Inserts 75/50 gr, 12-pack at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

And I build a 2in footer out of these aluminum shafts that brace everything on the business end together. Everything behind my footing is just there as a rudder to steer the arrow.

Easton XX75 Tribute Arrow Shafts

• Durable, accurate and economical • The stepping stone to high performance for any beginning or shorter draw, lighter poundage archer • Constructed with Easton's proprietary XX75 alloy • Hard-anodized black finish • Guaranteed Straightness: ± .005" • Weight Tolerance: ± 2% • Precision-ground...

www.lancasterarchery.com

My finished arrow is about 25 3/4 long, weighing 600gr. I never checked the FOC. I'm not set on a specific FOC but I'm guessing its close to 20%. I recently chipped the side of the leg bone on a good size hog and the broadhead exited out the opposite arm pit at 20 yards. As he ran, the opposite leg slightly bent my steel broadhead adaptor. Only could tell from spinning it when I put it on a new arrow to use again. The front leg snapped my arrow and the rest of my arrow somehow worked its way back out. When I found him, 50 yards from the shot, the broadhead was almost completely worked out of the entry hole. He snapped the arrow at the shot. The tail end was right there. I did shoot through a palmetto that was up against him. I'm guessing he was lunging forward at the shot and the bone movement on my shaft stopped it from a complete pass though. But I had 2 holes. Can't complain about that. I'm very satisfied with this set up.

That is an awesome kill! I know from experience that those boars are hard to kill. Congrats!

 

[Marc W]

I tried the 200 grain cutthroats this year. I was not impressed with the 2 animals I shot with them and went back to my 3 blade VPA’s. I get about the same penetration with both out of my recurve and the extra blade seems to shorten blood trails a lot. I hunt mainly wet marsh habitat so the quicker they die the better for me.

 

[swampsnyper]

I tried the 200 grain cutthroats this year. I was not impressed with the 2 animals I shot with them and went back to my 3 blade VPA’s. I get about the same penetration with both out of my recurve and the extra blade seems to shorten blood trails a lot. I hunt mainly wet marsh habitat so the quicker they die the better for me.

My 1st recurve kill was with a 3 blade VPA. Slipped between the ribs so no problem there. Used the 2 blade VPAs, also a good head. Went with the grizzly's to check out the single bevel option. Hard to say if they make a difference in killing but I believe they have a stronger edge if that matters. Mainly they are cheap and work.

 

[Bach55]

Great thread. I’m also looking to build a heavier arrow. I’m at ~430 grains now, and I’m thinking about just adding a 100 grain brass insert. The single bevels sound great, but I just bought some G5 Montecs and want to give them a shot.

My question is - can I do this with the same arrow spine I have, or does adding 100 grains to the front end change things?

 

[Jason Wandling]

Great thread. I’m also looking to build a heavier arrow. I’m at ~430 grains now, and I’m thinking about just adding a 100 grain brass insert. The single bevels sound great, but I just bought some G5 Montecs and want to give them a shot.

My question is - can I do this with the same arrow spine I have, or does adding 100 grains to the front end change things?

Go with a 300 spine if adding weight to the front. My 340 was fine with 100 grain heads but 125 causes too much flex. I’m shooting 40 grain insert weight and 125 head. Increasing to 90 grain weights this season.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Great thread. I’m also looking to build a heavier arrow. I’m at ~430 grains now, and I’m thinking about just adding a 100 grain brass insert. The single bevels sound great, but I just bought some G5 Montecs and want to give them a shot.

My question is - can I do this with the same arrow spine I have, or does adding 100 grains to the front end change things?

It will change things but it doesn't mean you can't shoot them effectively. There is more to the equation. What type of bow do you shoot? Trad or tech?
And if its trad, how center shot is the rest?
What type of release do you shoot? Fingers are more critical of spine than a mechanical release.
There is another concept that I seldom hear anyone talk about...yeah, adding weight to the TIP of the arrow will weaken the spine but adding weight to the NOCK end stiffens the spine. I've never messed with adding weight to the nock end, so I can't comment of the details such as the amount of weight needed or how its added, but I read that adding weight to the nock end does stiffen spine, so it may be possible to offset (to a degree) the weight you add to the tip.
Of course adding weight to the arrow will decrease trajectory.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Bach55]

It will change things but it doesn't mean you can't shoot them effectively. There is more to the equation. What type of bow do you shoot? Trad or tech?
And if its trad, how center shot is the rest?
What type of release do you shoot? Fingers are more critical of spine than a mechanical release.
There is another concept that I seldom hear anyone talk about...yeah, adding weight to the TIP of the arrow will weaken the spine but adding weight to the NOCK end stiffens the spine. I've never messed with adding weight to the nock end, so I can't comment of the details such as the amount of weight needed or how its added, but I read that adding weight to the nock end does stiffen spine, so it may be possible to offset (to a degree) the weight you add to the tip.
Of course adding weight to the arrow will decrease trajectory.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I’m shooting a PSE Stinger 3G. 57#, 29” draw. Just a run of the mill whitetail setup.

 

[DaWiz9578]

You can always turn your draw weight down a little to see if you can make your spines work. Throw an insert in one, take vanes off, shoot. Stiff spine (knock left) too much weight. Weak spine either reduce weight or drop bow poundage. As long as you're not tied to maxing out your bow and sacrificing a little speed.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Red Beard]

Man you’re reading my mind. Same reasons you listed. Just bought the test pack from grizzly - 125 grain massi and 150 grain silver flame. Going to borrow the 200 gr massi from a buddy of mine along with the grizzly tapered arrows and the Victory VAP TKO 300s with the 95 gr stainless steel inserts. Going to try out different combinations and see what flies best.

Currently shooting FMJ 340s with a 125 G5 Montec, @ 536 grains, but after researching the single bevels really excited to see them in action.

Very interested in following this thread as it plays out. Will provide updates as I go.

@ericabbott How did the Maasai and Silver Flame work out for you sir? I'm looking into a test pack with the 200 Maasai and 150 Silver Flame.

 

[Jtaylor]

Here's another option on a good 3:1 single bevel broadhead if you guys are interested: https://www.tuffhead.com/broadheads

 

[ericabbott]

@ericabbott How did the Maasai and Silver Flame work out for you sir? I'm looking into a test pack with the 200 Maasai and 150 Silver Flame.

I tested the 200 Maasai on a few deer legs, split the elbow and almost through the block target behind it with little deflection. Unfortunately didn’t get a chance to test on a live animal. Never tested the Silver Flame, sent it to @Kurt not sure if he’s tested it out yet.

 

[Red Beard]

I tested the 200 Maasai on a few deer legs, split the elbow and almost through the block target behind it with little deflection. Unfortunately didn’t get a chance to test on a live animal. Never tested the Silver Flame, sent it to @Kurt not sure if he’s tested it out yet.

Well that's good news! Is the Maasai in your quiver now? Or did you move to something else?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Here's another option on a good 3:1 single bevel broadhead if you guys are interested: https://www.tuffhead.com/broadheads

Im seriously considering going that route. I've been absorbing Asbel info the last couple weeks and I want to increase my FOC above my current 17% and 550 grains.
I'm liking what I read about uefoc and 650 grains.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[ericabbott]

Well that's good news! Is the Maasai in your quiver now? Or did you move to something else?

That and the 250 grain Cutthroat. Open to others but leaning toward single bevel right now. I figure I have 7 months to test out a few options