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Kayak Landing Gear

IkemanTX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2015
Messages
3,501
Well, I decided to get back into hunting from my kayak. I am starting with pig hunting and crappie/white bass season.

I think it is kind of crazy that I hunted more from water access when I didn’t even own a canoe/kayak than I have in the past 3 years of owning a kayak. I previously BORROWED something more often than I have used my own KAYAK in the last 3 years.

Much of my kayak access has changed in that time… a few of the authorities in charge of the many properties I hunt have restricted access with gates and fences, or have established restricted access points. Almost all of these are “Walk-In” based, and have no thought to water access. As such, I stopped dragging my kayak to water. Access points can easily be 200-400 yards to water. Ow on many of these old county road access location. Even with short drags, I have almost drug the keel off the back of my kayak… gravel and asphalt apparently don’t mix well with root-molded plastic.

As such, I decided to build a set of landing gear for my kayak. I have used a kayak cart in the past, and I just can’t stand them. I know they work for MANY guys, but I just cannot find a way to make them work in my context/creek systems. I have been teaching myself welding, and decided that this was a great first project.

I cut some plate steel to mount to the old rod holders, and welded a piece of square tubing to it.
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There are plates on the inside of the root-mold that sandwich together so the force is not simply the 4 bolts.
Next up was the legs and wheels. I wanted the wheels to store out of the way when on the water, and the square tubing allowed me a vertical and horizontal orientation with the same plate and tube mounting hardware.
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There was a LOT of slop between the size of the larger and smaller tubing, so I did a little 3D modeling and had my brother (who has a 3D printer) print a sleeve to go inside the larger tube and take up most of the excess space.
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This shored up the legs a ton. They are firm and fairly quiet as well. A little Jb weld, and they won’t be coming out.
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I used it this morning for the first time, having to park 200 yards from the water. I quickly realized that my tubing was too thin to constantly handle the strain of a 200-400 yard drag without bending… so, I added some 1/4” plate steel to reinforce the 90° angle. It is not sturdy as an ox!
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Don’t judge the welds… I’m still learning. They don’t look pretty, but they penetrate well. In fact, I blew through the tubing wall right at the end and had to fill it. There’s no chance of bending now.
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This pic was before the plate reinforcement and the sleeve, but gives an idea…

A cotter pin and some drilled holes, and the wheels lock in nicely. I don’t even have to lift the wheels to load in the truck. The wheels end up about 6” behind the open tailgate.

I totally forgot to take a picture this morning on the inaugural hunt. I’m kind of bummed about that…


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I like it! I have used commercially available carts as well for my boat, a lot, and most of them suck, they either shift at the worst possible time or collapse as your loading them, this looks solid!
 
What was the thoughts while cutting the tubing at an angle at the wheel? If u bending the tubing at the weld connection and having to reinforce i would think u want that wheel bolt in double shear
 
looks good. A handyman's Boondox set.

Even with the backer plates keep an eye on the four screws. It looks like a light boat to start with so that shouldn't be a problem, but if you load it with your gear and a deer then you're going to be pushing how much that rotomold plastic can take. I've got an old town autopilot which is a heavy fishing kayak and even with backing plates that style of mount is hard on the plastic especially when you catch a rock or branch on the trail. Bigger tires with some air in them will help buffer.
 
What was the thoughts while cutting the tubing at an angle at the wheel? If u bending the tubing at the weld connection and having to reinforce i would think u want that wheel bolt in double shear

The thought on that was not having to buy new hardware for the wheel . The wheels came with grade 8 bolts, washers, and lock nuts… but the bolts weren’t long enough to accommodate the thickness of the tube steel.


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looks good. A handyman's Boondox set.

Even with the backer plates keep an eye on the four screws. It looks like a light boat to start with so that shouldn't be a problem, but if you load it with your gear and a deer then you're going to be pushing how much that rotomold plastic can take. I've got an old town autopilot which is a heavy fishing kayak and even with backing plates that style of mount is hard on the plastic especially when you catch a rock or branch on the trail. Bigger tires with some air in them will help buffer.

If I end up compromising the roto-molding, I may just be forced to upgrade to a heavier duty 12.8 or 14’ kayak…
I’m not carrying much weight on the wheels for 99% of the use. Just the kayak itself, a backpack, and a recurve. The only time it will be loaded up is when harvesting an animal. With a stick bow, though, that won’t be very frequent.


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If I end up compromising the roto-molding, I may just be forced to upgrade to a heavier duty 12.8 or 14’ kayak…
I’m not carrying much weight on the wheels for 99% of the use. Just the kayak itself, a backpack, and a recurve. The only time it will be loaded up is when harvesting an animal. With a stick bow, though, that won’t be very frequent.


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You could drill holes or weld a couple hooks on the downriggers so you could run a ratchet strap under the kayak to support most of the weight and keep the weight off those screws when in tow.
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You could drill holes or weld a couple hooks on the downriggers so you could run a ratchet strap under the kayak to support most of the weight and keep the weight off those screws when in tow.
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Yeah I agree that the strap would help a lot. I went a different route and made a cart. Your build looks really good.

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I tell you what.. your giving me ideas, until you have to load, unload, portage, back in the water again over and over people have no idea how slick your idea is.. I have a friend that does all my fab work on my business equipment, this summer I think I’ll see what he can do to my boat.
 
I hunt from a van and pull a small trailer. I just push or pull the trailer to the water. Works really well for me but when I needed a cart, I made a rack w/two wheels and two studs sticking up that just slipped up into my skupper holes. Light wt. and easy to use and no need for any type of bracket or straps. When you get to the water you just pick up the back and it falls out. I could flip it over and stick it in from the top if I wanted to take it w/me.
 
I hunt from a van and pull a small trailer. I just push or pull the trailer to the water. Works really well for me but when I needed a cart, I made a rack w/two wheels and two studs sticking up that just slipped up into my skupper holes. Light wt. and easy to use and no need for any type of bracket or straps. When you get to the water you just pick up the back and it falls out. I could flip it over and stick it in from the top if I wanted to take it w/me.

I have used a cart like that a time or two.
I fished with a guy that had the boondocks landing gear, and it was sick as could be, so this is my copy of it.


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