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Bridge type differences

J

Joe07296333

New Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Messages
3
Ordered my aero kestrel flex, never hunted never sat in a tree stand, been ziplining that’s as close as I’ve gotten to a saddle. I did love to climb trees when I was a kid. Call it a mid life crisis but I got the sudden urge this year to learn how to hunt. Not just deer but everything worth hunting. I’m interested in helping conservation efforts, the thrill of the hunt, plain old just looking for something new and fun to do outside for excercise(not one for the gym) and getting some nice natural wild venison for my freezer. Lmbo my question is which bridge to buy with the saddle. It comes with options for 3 different bridges I’m sure u vets know the choices I just wanna know what’s the safest/easiest option for a beginner. Seems the one with the rope is nice in theory but another point at which problems could arise if the knots aren’t properly maintained. I know I will need to learn knots with 100% confidence but the tether bridge that’s connected on both sides strikes me as the safest option but I know nothing so plz school me on what I should do plz.
 
Welcome.
For a new guy, I would recommend a bridge that the length can be adjusted. Bridge length is a very personal thing and one of the major influences on comfort. The Mantis bridge, IMO, is way too long and its not adjustable.
For just a few dollars, you can buy 5 or 6 feet of 1/4" Amsteel and easily make an adjustable whoopie sling bridge that is crazy strong. Amsteel isn't knot friendly so buries are used. They are easy to make.

Climbing rope makes an okay bridge but it is my least favorite. I don't like the bulky knots.

My favorite bridge is 1" tubular webbing with tri slides on each side. Slides makes the bridge fully adjustable and requires no stitching or knots. It also allows you to clinch the bridge to the saddle loops which gives you yet another adjustment. Changing where the bridge grips the loops also has an influence on comfort.

Lots of guys just tie tubular webbing to the bridge. Its still semi adjustable, but you just have to re-tie each time.
Some guys do adjust bridge length fairly often depending on the situation at hand.
I don't adjust mine very much.
I have it about 23 inches with a low tether, which feels good to me and has other advantages, often discussed in other threads.
 
I am brand new to saddles as well, just got my first deer from one Monday. I went with the sitdrag type seat made by Mike Isbell. It came with a webbing bridge which was sewn on one end then tied with a water not on the other to make it adjustable. He had left plenty of extra webbing so I could play with length.

I wound up switching to a 7mm accessory cord bridge since I want to make a back band and will attach it with small prussiks and that won’t work with the webbing. The bridge is tied in permanently with figure-8 follow through knots with extra on one end to allow for some adjustability as I move into colder weather and more clothing.

Definitely adjustable is the way to go starting out.
 
Looks like I’m callin new tribe to see how much adjustment is available in their step bridges...if not I’ll stick with my original choice which is the climbing rope with the caribeaner


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Joe07296333 said:
Looks like I’m callin new tribe to see how much adjustment is available in their step bridges...if not I’ll stick with my original choice which is the climbing rope with the caribeaner


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Click to expand...
I would highly advise going with the adjustable, fixed loop webbing bridge to start out. You can always remove it later on if you decide to go a different route.
 
What is your reasoning behind that being my best option? Sorry new to this and want to make sure I understand why
 
Does anyone have pics they could share of the whoopie sling bridge setup? I am trying to wrap my pea brain around how this works
 
Joe07296333 said:
What is your reasoning behind that being my best option? Sorry new to this and want to make sure I understand why
Click to expand...
Bridge length is highly personal for a few reasons and most new guys really don't know what length they will like best until they use it for a while. Bridge length effects hip comfort for some guys, but your style of sitting vs leaning comes into play, as does platform vs ROS.
Another reason I like a short bridge is so I can have a lower tether. That set up gives me more elbow clearance on my draw and is also easier to get the bow over for weak side shots.
A long bridge requires a higher tether. I don't care for having that angle of long bridge and high tether right there in the space for my elbow during a draw.

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Joe07296333 said:
What is your reasoning behind that being my best option? Sorry new to this and want to make sure I understand why
Click to expand...
I had it on my Flex. Unless you have access to sewing, it is best to get it from AH that way from the start. There is plenty of adjustment in that bridge to find what you like. It is a very stable feeling bridge, which will also boost your confidence. If you decide to go a different route after that, cut it off and you are no worse for wear! Easier to get it and cut off, than to not get it and want one later. Having tried all options cor several seasons, this has been my favorite so far.
 
jspradley said:
Does anyone have pics they could share of the whoopie sling bridge setup? I am trying to wrap my pea brain around how this works
Click to expand...
You dont HAVE to double wrap the Amsteel around the saddle loops, but it is helpful.
In this pic, one side is a locked brummel and the other side is the whoopie. The tag end of the woopie should have a simple end bury which keeps the end from un-weaving, but more importantly, it acts as a stopper in the unlikely event the whoopie ever slipped. But I never had that whoopie slip even a fraction of an inch. Its an excellent bridge but not quite as smooth during rotation thru the carabiner compared to a webbing bridge. I could "feel" the ends of the buries when I rotated.
Btw, that little orange loop on the end was just to make it easier to un-do the end bury if I ever wanted to. I could just pull that orange loop and then undo the whoopie. Its almost impossible to pull an end bury back thru the Amsteel. If you want to easily undo the whoopie, you need to undo the end bury. That little pull loop isnt really needed.
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For you guys (like me) that prefer the smooth operation of a webbing bridge, but dont fully trust it (like Dave), you can double bridge.
Run an ever so slightly longer Amsteel bridge AND a slightly shorter webbing bridge. Clip the carabiner on BOTH bridges. The carabiner will ride on the smoother webbing but if the webbing ever broke, the Amsteel becomes a back up bridge. Make the Amsteel bridge just a hair longer than the webbing so there isn't excessive shock on it if the webbing fails.
I ran a double bridge thru most of the summer practice sessions but removed it. After hearing what Dave says about web rot, I may put it back on.

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