BigBrando247
Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2019
- Messages
- 78
Can’t thank this site enough for all the great ideas. I read thru pages, watched videos, and looked at every image I could on slings. I by no means know what I’m doing so thank you fellow saddlehunters for helping me. After about a month of really figuring out what might be best for me(I’m a sitter who naps occasionally) and all different configurations of webbing possibilities as well as safety if I fall this is what I did.
30ft of 2” olive seatbelt webbing(strapworks)
(2) continuous loops 40” & 38” laid completely flat with 10” overlap(long box stitches). Length will shorten more with longer spacers. The 40” loop was bottom, 38 was top. I read where people preferred a shorter top section. I guesstimated about a 1-2” loss overall length in the end putting me in the meat of what everyone is going with. Spacers run front to back and end spacers were sewn where 10” overlap stops.
Bottom section spacers are long box stitched for extra rigidity. Top I left unstitched so I could pass the belt through and still allow it to move freely. I’ll cut off excess belt length and add a stopper on the end once I get perfect fit. Might redo the belt and get more stitching but should be ok with just the one box. Buckle came from old cheap treestand harness and has a pull tab for easy adjustment/release. If I were to somehow fall face first I believe the belt/saddle connections would not break. That was actually a big concern for me cause I like to live.
Wrapped all areas with stitching with camer duct tape. I only had enough to do the bottom but eventually every stitch will have tape over it to help prevent fraying. May try vet tape but tape flexes nice so far. Gonna use something to connect the sections so the bottom doesn’t slide down while walking/climbing.
Went to a local marine/auto upholstery shop and guy said it’s “illegal” to stitch seatbelt webbing if it’s not going in a car??? Laughed when I mentioned strapworks. Regardless I paid under the table as he did it on the spot and let me watch. He used some kinda 138 heavy duty marine thread with a juki for stitching and said that it was bombproof. When he finished he asked what’s this for, I put it on and explained how it works, he said...that’s badass
Folds up nice and small, insanely comfy, and weighs maybe a pound(my fish scale didn’t move much, it’s used to lunkers). Tehe
My next step:
Using Samson Predator as a bridge with 2-3” figure 8 loops on each end. I don’t want rope to webbing friction so I’m thinking maybe a very rigid hose type material(2 inches or so) at the bottom of the figure 8 loops that the Predator could pass thru, flexing slightly when weight is applied, and allow the webbing to lay flat preventing binding/fraying.
Using Predator for bridge, saddle tether, and climbing method tether(Sams stealth mode). Trying to keep metal away from this project other than belt buckle and bridge carabiner. Prusik on tether since I’ll be two tether climbing and won’t need to adjust much.
Thanks again for all the forums/pics/vids on these slings. I just copied what the OG’s(Anderson,Wraptor,Wraith,Recon) were making. I’ll post more pics once everything’s done. I had a mantis last year but wanted more adjustability/comfort and less cost.
30ft of 2” olive seatbelt webbing(strapworks)
(2) continuous loops 40” & 38” laid completely flat with 10” overlap(long box stitches). Length will shorten more with longer spacers. The 40” loop was bottom, 38 was top. I read where people preferred a shorter top section. I guesstimated about a 1-2” loss overall length in the end putting me in the meat of what everyone is going with. Spacers run front to back and end spacers were sewn where 10” overlap stops.
Bottom section spacers are long box stitched for extra rigidity. Top I left unstitched so I could pass the belt through and still allow it to move freely. I’ll cut off excess belt length and add a stopper on the end once I get perfect fit. Might redo the belt and get more stitching but should be ok with just the one box. Buckle came from old cheap treestand harness and has a pull tab for easy adjustment/release. If I were to somehow fall face first I believe the belt/saddle connections would not break. That was actually a big concern for me cause I like to live.
Wrapped all areas with stitching with camer duct tape. I only had enough to do the bottom but eventually every stitch will have tape over it to help prevent fraying. May try vet tape but tape flexes nice so far. Gonna use something to connect the sections so the bottom doesn’t slide down while walking/climbing.
Went to a local marine/auto upholstery shop and guy said it’s “illegal” to stitch seatbelt webbing if it’s not going in a car??? Laughed when I mentioned strapworks. Regardless I paid under the table as he did it on the spot and let me watch. He used some kinda 138 heavy duty marine thread with a juki for stitching and said that it was bombproof. When he finished he asked what’s this for, I put it on and explained how it works, he said...that’s badass
Folds up nice and small, insanely comfy, and weighs maybe a pound(my fish scale didn’t move much, it’s used to lunkers). Tehe
My next step:
Using Samson Predator as a bridge with 2-3” figure 8 loops on each end. I don’t want rope to webbing friction so I’m thinking maybe a very rigid hose type material(2 inches or so) at the bottom of the figure 8 loops that the Predator could pass thru, flexing slightly when weight is applied, and allow the webbing to lay flat preventing binding/fraying.
Using Predator for bridge, saddle tether, and climbing method tether(Sams stealth mode). Trying to keep metal away from this project other than belt buckle and bridge carabiner. Prusik on tether since I’ll be two tether climbing and won’t need to adjust much.
Thanks again for all the forums/pics/vids on these slings. I just copied what the OG’s(Anderson,Wraptor,Wraith,Recon) were making. I’ll post more pics once everything’s done. I had a mantis last year but wanted more adjustability/comfort and less cost.
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