Hinge cuts for deer habitat

[KYHunter]

Sure, but not all situations are suited for clear cutting. Certain tree species and the age of those trees may be worthless as timber, or not enough quanity for even pulp. The location of the spot can also be problematic for getting logging equipment in or out.

In my case, this section of my property was hayfield when I bought it in 1985. There was not a single sapling in these fields. I decided to allow it to naturally revert to forest. But I wanted it to stay in early succession once it developed. The area exploded with hawthorn, crab apple, wild apples, 3 varieties of dogwood, but it also began to grow unwanted black walnut, elm, maple, and black cherry...species that would shade out mast producers within a decade.
I wanted to keep it as a brushy, wild orchard of heavy cover.
As the unwanted trees started crowding and shading out the wanted trees, I employed hinge cutting.

I did not go into a mature forest and attempt to hinge, I hinged in order to KEEP the cover in the early succession stage, not to CREATE the cover.

I'm not saying that in every case hinge cutting is the end-all, beat-all. In some cases a timber cut would be a better choice.
But some posters have dismissed hinge cutting as a short-term deal.
I'm here to say that is not the case. When done properly, hinge cutting can be very advantageous.

I also know for a fact that hinging has extended the life of my ash saplings. Ash borers dont seem to attack young ash. Ive kept a number of ash in a young and living state by hinge cutting them. Time will tell how this will play out, but for now, those trees are still alive after several years (some now need re-hinged). They would have surely gone the way of the mature ash by this point...dead.

If anyone ever gets the opportunity to tour Tony Lapratt's 55(?) Acres in MI I highly encourage it. It's amazing what proper hing cutting can accomplish.

I’m really learning a lot from your posts so thank you! They are very insightful and I can tell are based on experience.
Have you done any attempts of hinge cutting in mature timber to any success?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Unless it's a mast producer, once a forest reaches 6 feet it's basically useless to deer. Browse become out of reach and all those trees produce shade and not much more. A clear cut will produce a new flush of growth...in a few years. But proper hinging produces food and cover instantly.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I’m really learning a lot from your posts so thank you! They are very insightful and I can tell are based on experience.
Have you done any attempts of hinge cutting in mature timber to any success?

Not very much. It really does depend on the tree species. Once a tree gets over 6" DBH (diameter breast height), it's harder to control the fall. One thing that helps hinge cuts survive is to lay one tree so its supported by the stump (or trunk) of the previous hinge cut. Try to keep trees at 90 degrees or greater. A hook really helps pull trees to lay exactly where you want them. Sometimes it's almost surgical.
But mature trees are difficult to fall like that, and sometimes its downright dangerous to try to hinge mature trees. If large trees will shade the area you want to hinge cut, then drop those trees 1st with tradition felling techniques.
I will say that elm is one of the best species to hinge. It's not brittle so it holds a hinge well...it doesn’t snap as it falls, so you can get away with hinging a more mature elm, but be extremely careful.

 

[Plebe]

Sure, but not all situations are suited for clear cutting. Certain tree species and the age of those trees may be worthless as timber, or not enough quanity for even pulp. The location of the spot can also be problematic for getting logging equipment in or out.

In my case, this section of my property was hayfield when I bought it in 1985. There was not a single sapling in these fields. I decided to allow it to naturally revert to forest. But I wanted it to stay in early succession once it developed. The area exploded with hawthorn, crab apple, wild apples, 3 varieties of dogwood, but it also began to grow unwanted black walnut, elm, maple, and black cherry...species that would shade out mast producers within a decade.
I wanted to keep it as a brushy, wild orchard of heavy cover.
As the unwanted trees started crowding and shading out the wanted trees, I employed hinge cutting.

I did not go into a mature forest and attempt to hinge, I hinged in order to KEEP the cover in the early succession stage, not to CREATE the cover.

I'm not saying that in every case hinge cutting is the end-all, beat-all. In some cases a timber cut would be a better choice.
But some posters have dismissed hinge cutting as a short-term deal.
I'm here to say that is not the case. When done properly, hinge cutting can be very advantageous.

I also know for a fact that hinging has extended the life of my ash saplings. Ash borers dont seem to attack young ash. Ive kept a number of ash in a young and living state by hinge cutting them. Time will tell how this will play out, but for now, those trees are still alive after several years (some now need re-hinged). They would have surely gone the way of the mature ash by this point...dead.

If anyone ever gets the opportunity to tour Tony Lapratt's 55(?) Acres in MI I highly encourage it. It's amazing what proper hinge cutting can accomplish.

I'm not arguing against the hinge cut. I'm learning what and why. I appreciate your experience here. I don't have a hunting property, but may someday. Sorting pros and cons is where I'm at.

Food, bedding, transition. If I can learn what's best, and improvement timelines, it'll position me to spend well.

As for Ash, my brother had to cut a lot full. Neighbors woods are full of dead trees. Not hunting property, so it just looks sad.

 

[Plebe]

Unless it's a mast producer, once a forest reaches 6 feet it's basically useless to deer. Browse become out of reach and all those trees produce shade and not much more. A clear cut will produce a new flush of growth...in a few years. But proper hinging produces food and cover instantly.

When I was in MI, I read young maple was a major food source for deer. But everyone seemed to head to the regular oak flats right off. I really enjoyed hunting there, beautiful.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Another reason why some hinge cuts dont survive is because of the height of the cut. If cut low to the ground, and without any support to keep the top a bit propped up out of a deer's reach, it will often get browsed to death...literally. I like to cut about 5-6 feet high and lay that tree so its trunk is supported by a previous tree. Doing it that way will allow about one half of the tree to lay low and produce browse and lower cover. But the other upper (horizontal) half of the tree will be out of the reach of browsing. It can continue to live and sustain the roots to keep the tree alive.

And sometimes they just die. I can't explain it, they are the right species, they get enough sun, the cut wasn't too deep, but for some reason they crap out. But the bright side is you created some sunlight to the ground and mother nature will grow something there.
Just keep an eye on any area that you manipulate. Whether its a clearcut or a hinge cut...it's a prime place for invasives to take hold. Dont let that happen or you will be sorry!

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I'm not arguing against the hinge cut. I'm learning what and why. I appreciate your experience here. I don't have a hunting property, but may someday. Sorting pros and cons is where I'm at.

Food, bedding, transition. If I can learn what's best, and improvement timelines, it'll position me to spend well.

As for Ash, my brother had to cut a lot full. Neighbors woods are full of dead trees. Not hunting property, so it just looks sad.

Its heartbreaking what has happen to the ash trees. We had millions of ash in this region and now 99% are dead...and extremely dangerous. Dangerous to cut and dangerous to leave standing. My advice is to cut them as soon as the look doomed. Don't wait until they are already dead. And if cut when the roots are still alive, they will often stump sprout for several years creating browse for at least a little while. If you wait until they completely die, then you've missed the boat.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

When I was in MI, I read young maple was a major food source for deer. But everyone seemed to head to the regular oak flats right off. I really enjoyed hunting there, beautiful.

Here's a tip...during leaf fall (mid Oct here), deer absolutely hammer newly fallen maple and poplar leaves. I swear it's one reason guys believe in an October lull. Deer are delayed traveling because they stop and gorge on freshly fallen leaves.

 

[Plebe]

Its heartbreaking what has happen to the ash trees. We had millions of ash in this region and now 99% are dead...and extremely dangerous. Dangerous to cut and dangerous to leave standing. My advice is to cut them as soon as the look doomed. Don't wait until they are already dead. And if cut when the roots are still alive, they will often stump sprout for several years creating browse for at least a little while. If you wait until they completely die, then you've missed the boat.

It's interesting you're hinge cutting elm. Elm was abundant here, but Dutch-elm made them scarce. I don't remember learning how to id them growing up, as there just weren't any to show.

Now its the ash borer.

 

[SNIPERBBB]

Sure, but not all situations are suited for clear cutting. Certain tree species and the age of those trees may be worthless as timber, or not enough quanity for even pulp. The location of the spot can also be problematic for getting logging equipment in or out.

In my case, this section of my property was hayfield when I bought it in 1985. There was not a single sapling in these fields. I decided to allow it to naturally revert to forest. But I wanted it to stay in early succession once it developed. The area exploded with hawthorn, crab apple, wild apples, 3 varieties of dogwood, but it also began to grow unwanted black walnut, elm, maple, and black cherry...species that would shade out mast producers within a decade.
I wanted to keep it as a brushy, wild orchard of heavy cover.
As the unwanted trees started crowding and shading out the wanted trees, I employed hinge cutting.

I did not go into a mature forest and attempt to hinge, I hinged in order to KEEP the cover in the early succession stage, not to CREATE the cover.

I'm not saying that in every case hinge cutting is the end-all, beat-all. In some cases a timber cut would be a better choice.
But some posters have dismissed hinge cutting as a short-term deal.
I'm here to say that is not the case. When done properly, hinge cutting can be very advantageous.

I also know for a fact that hinging has extended the life of my ash saplings. Ash borers dont seem to attack young ash. Ive kept a number of ash in a young and living state by hinge cutting them. Time will tell how this will play out, but for now, those trees are still alive after several years (some now need re-hinged). They would have surely gone the way of the mature ash by this point...dead.

If anyone ever gets the opportunity to tour Tony Lapratt's 55(?) Acres in MI I highly encourage it. It's amazing what proper hinge cutting can accomplish.

Can you grow ash from cuttings? Might be a nice little business possibility for you

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Can you grow ash from cuttings? Might be a nice little business possibility for you

I never tried. I suspect that you cannot.

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[JC3]

Tom-
You make a lot of good points especially regarding the invasive species !!
DO NOT let them take a hold of your property or you will regret it.
I spend and have spent many hours spraying for Japanese barberry and multiflora rose using round up, the only viable way to kill them.
Note: Multiflora is a fair to decent browse when young.
But I think you are missing a lot of value in your land and trees by not utilizing TSI.
TSI is a continuous process that can be done yearly, every other year, or what ever your property dictates.
A good forester, schooled in classic silvaculture will be able to let you realize the benefits to wildlife and still grow good timber.
You can keep your woods in a constant regenerative process by select cutting any size tree, at any time.
As far as "logging" you do not need a lot of equipment to skid logs out, I have skidded many cords of wood with a 4wd 30 hp Kubota.
Early on we used 4 wheelers to do the work, making sure we weren't overloading the machines.
The wood derived from select cuts can be used for firewood or possible saw logs.
Browse grown at ground level will sustain the herd much longer and be as nutritious as tree crowns.
Honeysuckle, greenbrier, blackberry, goldenrod, sumac, sassafras, etc. all regenerate through out the growing year after being browsed on.
I know it works for you, but I cringe when I see a hinge cut area, because I know so much more can be done with habitat.

 

[CZMark]

It's interesting you're hinge cutting elm. Elm was abundant here, but Dutch-elm made them scarce. I don't remember learning how to id them growing up, as there just weren't any to show.

Now its the ash borer.

The really sad thing is, at least around here, most of those big ashes were planted to replace the dead elms.

 

[BTaylor]

I know very little on land improvement, but know controlled burning is a popular and effective tool in the South. Both in fields and pine forest.

My understanding, is the goal isn't just young growth, that quality food-source and biodiversity are the focus.

They did understory management using various techniques in one area I hunt and the quality of bucks has improved....dramatically. Unfortunately, I've been unable to spend as much time there as I once did. In those days I had some pretty good luck, and hope to find more in the future.

Controlled burns will improve water function in the soil and release tied up nutrients as well. Burns need to be rotated to be most productive too so maybe the first burn is a cool season burn and the next burn is a warm season burn. This will encourage the greatest variety of species regen in the understory.

 

[BTaylor]

Sure, but not all situations are suited for clear cutting. Certain tree species and the age of those trees may be worthless as timber, or not enough quanity for even pulp. The location of the spot can also be problematic for getting logging equipment in or out.

In my case, this section of my property was hayfield when I bought it in 1985. There was not a single sapling in these fields. I decided to allow it to naturally revert to forest. But I wanted it to stay in early succession once it developed. The area exploded with hawthorn, crab apple, wild apples, 3 varieties of dogwood, but it also began to grow unwanted black walnut, elm, maple, and black cherry...species that would shade out mast producers within a decade.
I wanted to keep it as a brushy, wild orchard of heavy cover.
As the unwanted trees started crowding and shading out the wanted trees, I employed hinge cutting.

I did not go into a mature forest and attempt to hinge, I hinged in order to KEEP the cover in the early succession stage, not to CREATE the cover.

I'm not saying that in every case hinge cutting is the end-all, beat-all. In some cases a timber cut would be a better choice.
But some posters have dismissed hinge cutting as a short-term deal.
I'm here to say that is not the case. When done properly, hinge cutting can be very advantageous.

I also know for a fact that hinging has extended the life of my ash saplings. Ash borers dont seem to attack young ash. Ive kept a number of ash in a young and living state by hinge cutting them. Time will tell how this will play out, but for now, those trees are still alive after several years (some now need re-hinged). They would have surely gone the way of the mature ash by this point...dead.

If anyone ever gets the opportunity to tour Tony Lapratt's 55(?) Acres in MI I highly encourage it. It's amazing what proper hinge cutting can accomplish.

Absolutely agree. At my buddy's place we are dealing with overly mature closed canopy oak/hickory forest. It is a pretty good sized place so we are doing a variety of cuts. General TSI in some areas, some areas are going to be cut between general TSI and savanna and some areas we are going to take almost if not to true savanna spacing. We have broken the place down into quadrants or compartments and have laid out cut plans based on access and topography so that we can maximize edge and flow. We have used some hinging in a few areas as well similar to what you have done in regrowth areas and have also used them for edge feathering to shield property lines and the county road.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Tom-
You make a lot of good points especially regarding the invasive species !!
DO NOT let them take a hold of your property or you will regret it.
I spend and have spent many hours spraying for Japanese barberry and multiflora rose using round up, the only viable way to kill them.
Note: Multiflora is a fair to decent browse when young.
But I think you are missing a lot of value in your land and trees by not utilizing TSI.
TSI is a continuous process that can be done yearly, every other year, or what ever your property dictates.
A good forester, schooled in classic silvaculture will be able to let you realize the benefits to wildlife and still grow good timber.
You can keep your woods in a constant regenerative process by select cutting any size tree, at any time.
As far as "logging" you do not need a lot of equipment to skid logs out, I have skidded many cords of wood with a 4wd 30 hp Kubota.
Early on we used 4 wheelers to do the work, making sure we weren't overloading the machines.
The wood derived from select cuts can be used for firewood or possible saw logs.
Browse grown at ground level will sustain the herd much longer and be as nutritious as tree crowns.
Honeysuckle, greenbrier, blackberry, goldenrod, sumac, sassafras, etc. all regenerate through out the growing year after being browsed on.
I know it works for you, but I cringe when I see a hinge cut area, because I know so much more can be done with habitat.

I do practice a little Timber Stand Improvement. I've released dozens of wild apple and crabs on my place and I do haul out some of the logs for firewood.

But not all species are suitable for firewood. Elm, aspen, sassafras are a few that I won't waste my time putting in my wood stove. I resist hinging any of the "valuable" trees like oak and black cherry, unless the tree is obviously never going to be a straight tree or is otherwise compromised with holes, rot, etc.
I gladly take hickory for TSI and its my favorite firewood.

So, what am I to do with a tree like an elm that is beginning to shade my crabs? No logger is gonna buy a few middle-age elm from me and I ain't gonna waste the effort to haul it out.
If I drop it and let it lay, what does that accomplish?
If I hinge it, it produces instant cover, instant food (my deer love to browse elm) and it will continue to live and produce food/cover for years. I have 15 year old hinge cut elm that are still going strong.

I hinge high which allows deer to have travel routes, and bedding within the cut area. It also creates walls of cover and separation making my small acreage hunt "bigger".

I don't find it "cringe" worthy and my deer seem to be fine with it.
I'll say it again...I'm not implying that hinge cutting is the end-all, beat-all in all situations. Sometimes TSI is good, and sometimes a clear-cut may be better, and other times a mixture of the 3 may be the best choice.

I don't know who on this thread that said hinge cutting is a short-term term deal, but I chimed in to say that is just not true. I know that from hands on experience on property I've owned for 36 years.

If hinging makes you cringe then don't do it. But its wrong for someone to say that hinging is short term.

All property needs management and maintenance, even hinge cut areas. I'm managing my land for deer not for timber species that has no market value.

And yeah, I actively eliminate young black walnut due to the limitations the juglone creates. Lots of desirable habitat species cannot grow in the presence of juglone.

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[Allegheny Tom]

Absolutely agree. At my buddy's place we are dealing with overly mature closed canopy oak/hickory forest. It is a pretty good sized place so we are doing a variety of cuts. General TSI in some areas, some areas are going to be cut between general TSI and savanna and some areas we are going to take almost if not to true savanna spacing. We have broken the place down into quadrants or compartments and have laid out cut plans based on access and topography so that we can maximize edge and flow. We have used some hinging in a few areas as well similar to what you have done in regrowth areas and have also used them for edge feathering to shield property lines and the county road.

A well planned-out variety of practices. Lots of edge, funnels and variations of cover and species.
I like it.

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[JC3]

Tom-
You are successful in your techniques, and I like mine, so we will have to "agree to disagree", on hinge cuts.
Keep up the good work, as I have met people with acreage that do nothing for the habitat and expect a herd of deer to reside on the property.
But I would urge people new to habitat management, to consult with your local forester and talk to them about your long term goals for wildlife habitat.
Habitat improvement is not an overnight process, it can sometime take a few years to fully realize the potential of the land.

 

[BTaylor]

Tom-
You are successful in your techniques, and I like mine, so we will have to "agree to disagree", on hinge cuts.
Keep up the good work, as I have met people with acreage that do nothing for the habitat and expect a herd of deer to reside on the property.
But I would urge people new to habitat management, to consult with your local forester and talk to them about your long term goals for wildlife habitat.
Habitat improvement is not an overnight process, it can sometime take a few years to fully realize the potential of the land.

I would say IT WILL take several years to fully realize improvements. Managing for great wildlife habitat has no end, you will never be finished. Same goes for soil improvements, esp those of us not blessed with great soil to start with.