Why do people keep recommending a stopper knot below a safeguard? It specifically states not to in the manual and there are better ways to back the device up.
Most are referring to a stopper knot at the very end of your tether. So if your using an 8ft tether and something happens and you slide down that rope that knot will catch you before your rope slides all the way through the mechanical device.Why do people keep recommending a stopper knot below a safeguard? It specifically states not to in the manual and there are better ways to back the device up.
When I get home I’ll check, but I’m pretty sure it says friction hitch or autoblock but also says not to tie a knot below as well. It referenced potential damage to the device which would then make it fail. I think the best way is to back it up above and tender it down on the rappel. Just my opinion.I believe Madrock recommends against an autoblock or friction hitch as it could jam the mechanism open. A bulky stopper knot alpine butterfly should stop an accidental rappel, which is what I do when I’m at hunting height.
If you’re on a short tether, why use a madrock? Just curious. I always thought the benefit was being able to climb with your tether and use it as an ascender of sorts and then rappel. If you have an 8’ tether, you aren’t rappelling so where’s the benefit? Again, just curious, not saying you’re wrong.Most are referring to a stopper knot at the very end of your tether. So if your using an 8ft tether and something happens and you slide down that rope that knot will catch you before your rope slides all the way through the mechanical device.
Exactly I have KongDuck on Linesmen I will eventually get rappel gear. I was just think not to have the Madrock sitting around and i could get use to it bit before jumping into the rappel worldI believe that TonyG22 said that he's trying to spread out the cost of buying his rappel gear...In that case, I also believe that the Safeguard would work in the same way as a Ropeman, or a Kong Duck, which is what most would use with a tether, if they wanted to use mechanicals. Just remember to have a stopper knot tied close to it!
I am finding I have "extra" or "better" stuff taking the learn as I go approach. Need to find an outlet to sell. Just pulled the rigger on Rappel kit from EWO simplest and most straight forwardMaybe you sell the Kong, & use the $ to help buy rappel rope! Rope.com has lots of options! I highly recommed that you learn to rappel. For me, there's no easier & safer way to get back down, especially in the dark!
I am finding I have "extra" or "better" stuff taking the learn as I go approach. Need to find an outlet to sell.
What madrock is saying is do not back up the device and use anything DURING THE RAPPEL. When you are sitting at hunting height it is ALWAYS good practice to alpine butterfly yourself back into your carabineer. The problem with using a friction knot below the device is if the device hits the knot, the knot will lock the device open AND the device acts like a knot tender. An Alpine Butterfly or stopper knot will not ride the rope. It stops you right there. A 6"-1' drop is a whole lot better than a 15'+ to the ground.Why do people keep recommending a stopper knot below a safeguard? It specifically states not to in the manual and there are better ways to back the device up.
What madrock is saying is do not back up the device and use anything DURING THE RAPPEL. When you are sitting at hunting height it is ALWAYS good practice to alpine butterfly yourself back into your carabineer. The problem with using a friction knot below the device is if the device hits the knot, the knot will lock the device open AND the device acts like a knot tender. An Alpine Butterfly or stopper knot will not ride the rope. It stops you right there. A 6"-1' drop is a whole lot better than a 15'+ to the ground.