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Newby help please

justsomedude said:
For you to fall out it sounds like you had no tension against the SitDrag.

First issue....WEAR A DAMN HARNESS :)
Just attach it with a second Prusik below your bridge attachment and set it so there is very little to no slack.

I have a stupidly ultralight CAMP Alp racer harness and an Alpine BOD. You hardly notice you are wearing them....UNTIL YOU DONT FALL :)

I have a tied webbing bridge on mine. Overhand on a bight 'retrace' tied in place on each end. I can stand sideways on the tree and shoot completely behind me with no instability
Click to expand...

You win for being the first person to tell me to wear a harness! I'm still not going to when I'm only 4 feet up though. :p Yah maybe i didn't have enough pressure on the bridge since i was only a foot off the ground and my legs were basically on the floor, but this amsteel is also really slippery stuff! webbing has WAY more friction against even smooth metal than amsteel does.

I will test test test before I really rely on my setup for safety.
 
I like that amsteel has little friction. That's why I chose it. I want the ability to maneuver easily for a shot.
 
Falling 4 feet with a rifle or a broadhead is a little different !

Ben_from_PA said:
You win for being the first person to tell me to wear a harness! I'm still not going to when I'm only 4 feet up though. :p Yah maybe i didn't have enough pressure on the bridge since i was only a foot off the ground and my legs were basically on the floor, but this amsteel is also really slippery stuff! webbing has WAY more friction against even smooth metal than amsteel does.

I will test test test before I really rely on my setup for safety.
Click to expand...
 
justsomedude said:
Falling 4 feet with a rifle or a broadhead is a little different !
Click to expand...
Yes I know.

In other news. I see in your profile pic you shoot a re-curve. I am not an archery hunter. But i have shot a lot of targets using a recurve. and I like the idea of trying to hunt with one. my Bear (polar) is only a 35# target model though. so I'd imagine insufficient to be reliable for deer. What bow and weight are you using?
 
35# would be minimum assuming your draw was long enough to actually pull that. Some .600 carbons with a SHARP 2 blade and you'll get pass throughs.

My Longbow is 55#, I also have a 60# recurve and my 'main' rig this year is a 45# ILF Recurve.
Takes a while to get confident but I enjoy it
Ben_from_PA said:
Yes I know.

In other news. I see in your profile pic you shoot a re-curve. I am not an archery hunter. But i have shot a lot of targets using a recurve. and I like the idea of trying to hunt with one. my Bear (polar) is only a 35# target model though. so I'd imagine insufficient to be reliable for deer. What bow and weight are you using?
Click to expand...
 
justsomedude said:
35# would be minimum assuming your draw was long enough to actually pull that. Some .600 carbons with a SHARP 2 blade and you'll get pass throughs.

My Longbow is 55#, I also have a 60# recurve and my 'main' rig this year is a 45# ILF Recurve.
Takes a while to get confident but I enjoy it
Click to expand...

Nice.
Tell me if you think this makes sense. I was thinking in the 45# to 50# range in a shorter mabe horse back style recurve. I'm only 5"7" tall and have a 28" draw, so I'm inclined to go a little heavier in poundage and a shorter bow. my 35# is a 30" full draw and I can't really max it out with good form. Although it is a pleasure to shoot all day long! With field points it only gets a couple inches of penetration into foam. not enough for me to feel comfortable taking a shot at a rib cage honestly. I think i'll want to go with a modern fiberglass-limb center-shot take-down bow.
 
Take a look at the ILF system. The advantage is that you aren't tied into proprietary hardware so you can mix and match limbs and risers.
It is confusing at first because the length of the riser changes the # of the limbs.
Limbs come in Short, Medium and Long. The combination of the length of limbs and riser makes the bow length. The length of the riser affects the draw weight.

Manufacturers will generally tell you the draw weight when combined a certain riser. Draw weight increases as the Riser length decreases (PHYSICS).

Tradtech 17" riser with medium limbs would make a 60" bow. Short limbs would be 58" and Long would be 62".
17" riser with Long limbs is a great smooth combo and easy to shoot accurately.
At 5'7" you might want to go with Mediums. Don't try to make a super short bow. But you can always pick up a set of short limbs and try it.I've owned a few short bows and keep selling them.

SO with ILF....you can buy one riser and then have a few sets of limbs.
It is very likely that you will end up not drawing 28" at your height.
I started off drawing 30" but now only draw 28" once I got my form/aiming and anchor down and I am 6'1"
Limbs aren't expensive and can often be found used and for trade.

My OPINION based on my development...don't start off shooting 'instinctively' (unless you are already GREAT at it of course).
If you build form with an aiming method, your instinctive shooting will follow that. I wandered a few years shooting inconsistently before watching Jimmy Blackmon's videos. Now I EXPECT to hit my target at 30 yards :)

Watch these
 
Dude! I'm humbled by your knowledge and willingness to share it. I'll definitely take your advice and look at that system. I'm not really near any GOOD archery shops that know anything about re-curves. they only stock kiddie models. So i'm more or less relegated to shopping on line. which makes me nervous unless i have a good recommendation to follow.

also. since i was griping about wearing a harness, reason being my rock climbing harness with the padded legs, and gear loops etc is way too bulky. I'm looking at this one since it's light, simple and only to be used for fall arrest, i don't need all the comfy extras. My other fall arrest harness is big over the shoulder etc, and i'm not interested in that either for what I'm doing. https://www.amazon.com/Fusion-Centa...&qid=1478877945&sr=8-14&keywords=body+harness
 
on training by the way. I'm lucky enough to work for a university that has a vibrant archery club. As a staff member I can go down to their practices (nice indoor range too) and participate and learn.
 
@Ben_from_PA do you have a belt to secure your sit drag to you?

You can get something like the Tree Hopper instead of a full harness. In fact, if I was doing deer drives like you, I would have one step with aider and maybe no saddle. Standing on a top step and leaning back on a linemans belt for an hour at a time, isn't too bad.
 
P43TrVo.jpg

micro cord to "sew" loops

d34FLh3.jpg

Saddle with amsteel bridge and belt.

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Saddle tether

QO4TiCe.jpg

Lineman loop (color is because its made of my climbing gear), I'll need to get different color eventually. For now I'll hide it once I'm up.
 
I would add a belt to that. You need to keep it around your waste when it is not under load.
 
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