Rope Bridge Length? Carabiner?

[justsomedude]

I've seen scattered posts on this in the Archery Talk Forum.

Red, are you still using the short Bridge?
24" total?
I have a 48? bridge with Blake's Hitch on it.
I generally end up shortening it about 8" after I am set up.

I'm sure I will be adjusting this stuff forever...getting closer though.

I also saw that Boswell is making his bridge removable with Carabiners so it isn't in the way when climbing.
Interesting. I might consider just using a Carabiner on one end (opposite the Blake's Hitch) and stowing it in a pouch. I have had my strap getting snagged on steps as I go up.

 

[Boudreaux]

My bridge is a fixed length and pull the slack though the D loop so its out of my way, I believe it is JHicks that uses a removable bridge.

Thanks,
Boswell

 

[redsquirrel]

I was using a short bridge with the blakes hitch, about 24 inches total. Took the plunge this week and actually cut the bridge. I have a stopper knot on each side of the paws. The total active length is 24 inches, so 12 inches on each side of the tree strap. I thought about trying shorter but the 24 inches was working pretty good so I stuck with it.

No problems so far with the shorter bridge getting hung up. I did have that problem when it was longer.

 

[BassBoysLLP]

Interesting. I find it easier to pivot with a little bit longer bridge and the side pressure is less. I'll shorten it for the next hunt and see how I like it.

 

[Stykbow1]

I was using a short bridge with the blakes hitch, about 24 inches total. Took the plunge this week and actually cut the bridge. I have a stopper knot on each side of the paws. The total active length is 24 inches, so 12 inches on each side of the tree strap. I thought about trying shorter but the 24 inches was working pretty good so I stuck with it.

No problems so far with the shorter bridge getting hung up. I did have that problem when it was longer.

Red I took my Blake's hitch off and was going to cut my bridge but my buddy Mike suggested tying another stopper knot in each end to get to the 24" that way if something changed you could go back to the original length, which, I think is pretty smart. The reason I'm doing it is because of all the reasons listed by others and the fact that the Blake's hitch kept locking up and required a great amount of force to move after it had tightened down on the bridge. I will let you know how it works as soon as I get a chance to practice with it. I'm waiting for my Ropeman 1's to come so I can get all rigged up and then do some serious stand work. So far for me that has been the only real drawback to the whole Aero Hunter system the use of Blake's hitches on the bridge, tree rope, and lineman's belt and while rope may be quieter than say the Ropeman 1 and carabiner hook up it doesn't offer the ease and convenience that the ascender does. I can tape the hardware to reduce noise but I can't figure out how to make the Blake's hitch work more smoothly and not bind up and while I realize that some feel any metal in the system is a no go no matter what I am willing to deal with it for the adjustability and simplicity it provides. I know some will disagree about putting more metal into the system but for me it's the best work around I have right now, unless they come out with a rubberized ascender or a super slick Blake's hitch.

Roger

 

[redsquirrel]

I was using a short bridge with the blakes hitch, about 24 inches total. Took the plunge this week and actually cut the bridge. I have a stopper knot on each side of the paws. The total active length is 24 inches, so 12 inches on each side of the tree strap. I thought about trying shorter but the 24 inches was working pretty good so I stuck with it.

No problems so far with the shorter bridge getting hung up. I did have that problem when it was longer.

Red I took my Blake's hitch off and was going to cut my bridge but my buddy Mike suggested tying another stopper knot in each end to get to the 24" that way if something changed you could go back to the original length, which, I think is pretty smart. The reason I'm doing it is because of all the reasons listed by others and the fact that the Blake's hitch kept locking up and required a great amount of force to move after it had tightened down on the bridge. I will let you know how it works as soon as I get a chance to practice with it. I'm waiting for my Ropeman 1's to come so I can get all rigged up and then do some serious stand work. So far for me that has been the only real drawback to the whole Aero Hunter system the use of Blake's hitches on the bridge, tree rope, and lineman's belt and while rope may be quieter than say the Ropeman 1 and carabiner hook up it doesn't offer the ease and convenience that the ascender does. I can tape the hardware to reduce noise but I can't figure out how to make the Blake's hitch work more smoothly and not bind up and while I realize that some feel any metal in the system is a no go no matter what I am willing to deal with it for the adjustability and simplicity it provides. I know some will disagree about putting more metal into the system but for me it's the best work around I have right now, unless they come out with a rubberized ascender or a super slick Blake's hitch.

Roger

Definetily agree with you on the ropeman 1 over the blakes hitch Roger.

 

[Stykbow1]

Red what was the tape you used on your pawls to quiet the metal to metal noise.

Thanks, Roger

 

[redsquirrel]

Camo form cloth wrap. they make it in a couple different types and camo pattersn.

 

[Stykbow1]

Camo form cloth wrap. they make it in a couple different types and camo pattersn.

How is it holding up I was thinking of using that or hockey tape for the pawl and ropeman 1's to keep the metal to metal contact to a minimum but I think I'm going to wait until I have all my adjustments nailed down. Thanks for the help.

Roger

 

[redsquirrel]

Camo form cloth wrap. they make it in a couple different types and camo pattersn.

How is it holding up I was thinking of using that or hockey tape for the pawl and ropeman 1's to keep the metal to metal contact to a minimum but I think I'm going to wait until I have all my adjustments nailed down. Thanks for the help.

Roger

It is holding up good on the paws. I like it better than hockey tape because there is no sticky residue.

 

[Stykbow1]

Thanks Scott I'll have to pick some up soon so when I have everything dialed in I can stealthify everything! Thanks.

Roger

 

[jhicks54]

I also use camo cloth tape on the paws, and then I connect the bridge via carabiners once I'm at hunting height.

 

[jhicks54]

Oh yeah, the other part of the question: per John Eberhart's recommendations, I'm now using a shorter bridge length of 24" and placing the tree strap at eye level. It's made a big difference for me.

 

[Stykbow1]

Re:

Oh yeah, the other part of the question: per John Eberhart's recommendations, I'm now using a shorter bridge length of 24" and placing the tree strap at eye level. It's made a big difference for me.

I thought about using the carabiners myself on the bridge but with the Ropeman 1's on both the tree rope and the lineman's belt I felt I had enough hardware in that area and so I took my buddies Mike's advice and rather than cut the bridge tied an additional stopper knot on each side of the bridge and now it's around 24". I do agree that having a removable bridge can be an asset in many ways and makes putting the saddle on even easier and there is nothing to hang up while climbing the tree, if the current setup I have doesn't work as well as I think I may try it. As for the eye level hookup I have to experiment but the first few sits the eye level wasn't as comfortable to me as head high but then I am new and haven't had a chance to dial things in so that might change. John has spent many years hunting from a saddle and most if not all his suggestions are spot on L when it comes to the saddle for hunting! Looking forward to doing some experimenting of my own I'll keep you posted. Thanks.

Roger