Splicing Amseel question

[TooheyBirdie]

Love that this topic just came up... I just got 110 ft of 3/16 and 35ft of 1/8 to make some rope one stick ropes, some USAs, and a 3 step aider.... got a 1/4 fid and realized that is Not going to be big enough to do much so I'm going to make that one Greg makes on his G2 yt page...

 

[Allegheny Tom]

To me, it is worth the time to do the full bury on that first length just to have less rope to get snagged on anything. Also, if you have even an inkling of thought that you may want to use the daisy chain on another project down the road, I would do all daisy on the whole rope and not skip that first long segment - based on personal experience!

As we speak, I am doing a full length daisy chain for the very reason you stated.
Thanks for the input.

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[Bwhana]

Took a minute to find the link, but I highly recommend doing the button on any daisy chain, again, for future projects or uses you haven't thought about yet...http://www.saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?posts/356186

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Took a minute to find the link, but I highly recommend doing the button on any daisy chain, again, for future projects or uses you haven't thought about yet...http://www.saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?posts/356186

Thanks John. I will have to study on that thread a bit.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

One thing that's helping me keep the ends of the Amsteel from unraveling during splicing is to put a dab of Fletchtite on it. I coat about the end 1/4" or so with Fletchtite and when it's almost dry, I kinda knead it between my fingers to work the glue well into the fibers.
Not sure if it will act as a durable wicking, time will tell. But it does make splicing a little easier.
This also has an idea popping into my skull...The section coated with glue does get pretty rigid. I'm wondering if it could be pushed into the core when doing a bury. Might not need a tool to pull it. Might also make a solid, blunt end for using a pusher. Just tossing ideas out there.

 

[bfriendly]

I’ve used everything from hemostats to fids and a long hard wire for splicing. On long buries I’ll push the hard wire through then tape the end of the cord to it to pull back through…..it goes through ez and it hasn’t come off yet. I put a piece of tape on the ends of amsteel anytime I’m splicing and it really helps. I’ve only played with 3/16 and 1/4” thus far. BTW, the hemos work great !

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I’ve used everything from hemostats to fids and a long hard wire for splicing. On long buries I’ll push the hard wire through then tape the end of the cord to it to pull back through…..it goes through ez and it hasn’t come off yet. I put a piece of tape on the ends of amsteel anytime I’m splicing and it really helps. I’ve only played with 3/16 and 1/4” thus far. BTW, the hemos work great !

IME, there is a big difference in working with 7/64" and 1/8" than the larger diameters. Making the locks is easy but doing a bury with that tiny stuff is not so easy. I've tried the wires, push rods, and even the smaller Selma fid in order to get the tag-end started into a bury. The Selma fid seems to be a decent solution to get the Amsteel to open up a hole large enough to get the bury started but even then it takes a bit of effort (for me, anyway). I wish someone made fids one size smaller.

 

[Tr33_n1nj@]

Splicing 7/64 I used a ball point pen as a pusher and a straightened out paper clip bent in half like a loop turner. Yes I did it at work, sue me!

 

[bfriendly]

Splicing 7/64 I used a ball point pen as a pusher and a straightened out paper clip bent in half like a loop turner. Yes I did it a work, sue me!

You can’t do that! You have to buy a $40 fid set and use the proper one!

 

[Brocky]

A larger and longer sewing needle turned around helps with small stuff buries, Hobby Lobby has a larger selection. Sometimes it’s easier to do a series of short buries rather than one long one. Need to make exit and entry points clean, totally between the strands, magnification helps at this point also.