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There’s more than one friction knot

CharlieTN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2019
Messages
580
Thought I would put together some information for many of the new saddle hunters out there. Often times they get stuck on the Prusik Knot as their friction hitch and then they become frustrated with it. There is also a misuse of that name. Much like Bandaid has become a generic name for an adhesive bandage, so Prusik has become the generic name for friction knots in general but that can be very misleading.

Here is the basic Prusik Knot. It works, in fact it often works too well tightening down so much that it can be difficult to adjust, especially one handed. One big advantage to the Prusik knot is that it is bi-directional. It will hold a pull from either direction. The biggest disadvantage is that it is hard to release once weight is taken off. The Prusik is most often made with a continuous (whether tied, or sewn) loop of cord.

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My favorite, and one you will heart mentioned quite a bit is the Schwabisch Hitch. The biggest advantage to the Schwabisch is that it will release relatively easily once weight is taken off making it easier to move. Because of this you’ll see it used on adjustable bridges, tethers, and lineman’s ropes. There is a method to be able to make it with a continuous loop. I would have to look that up again as it’s been a couple of years. Normally it is tied with a length of rope with a loop on each end. The Schwabisch also works very well with a tender to enable one-handed adjustments. In my opinion, the only possible advantage the Prusik has over the Schwabisch is that the Schwabisch really only works properly in one direction unlike the Prusik which is bi-directional.

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A close cousin to the Schwabisch Hitch is the Distel Hitch. In fact it looks very similar with the only major difference being that the running ends that go to the carabiner crisis cross in an x as they leave the knot unlike the Schwabisch where they run parallel to one another.. It works equally well in all of the situations where the Schwabisch works. My only reason for preferring the Schwabisch over the Distel Hitch is that the actual knot portion of the Distel Hitch tends to sort of stretch out on the rope as it has weight put on it and sometimes it will not release as easily as the Schwabisch, hence my preference for the former.

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Here I wanted to show my favorite friction hitch when I have a loop of rope, and that is the Klemheist. It’s easy to tie in, can even be done one handed with some practice, is easy to make sure you have it tied correctly, and it works. The Klemheist releases easily when weight is taken off. That is really it’s only flaw, sometimes it doesn’t want to grab right away if your friction cord is stiff. But when it tightens up it holds well and will release easily when you need it to. In my opinion it makes a good backup/safety friction hitch.

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And finally is the Blake’s Hitch. The big advantage that the Blake’s hitch has over the others is that it can be tied with a single run of rope. All of the others required being tied with a loop or at a minimum two free ends to hook into the carabiner. I did notice that it appears that CGM is using the Blake’s Hitch for their rope belt and it’s a great option. When tightened it holds very well although it does not release quite as easily as the other options.

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Hopefully this will help you see that there are way more friction knots out there than the much promoted, and also much hated Prusik. This is definitely just a partial list as there are many, many more. Some that work better but are often much more complicated to tie or require a longer length of cord. If you’re interested in learning to tie any of these, simply google the name and you’ll find excellent instructions out on the web.

Stay safe.
 
Thanks for the informative post!
You’re welcome. I’ve watched so many new saddle hunters get frustrated with the classic Prussik hitch that I want them to see better alternatives. At the same time I also watch some more advanced hunters throwing out these very complicated hitches as well. These are great hitches that work well, are easy to tie, and more importantly are easy to inspect visually in the field to make sure they’re done right and safe.
 
Friends, just stumbled on this thread. Great post and info. I have been tying, trying and climbing on friction hitches for 15 years. There's many more, too many to mention. Two important features that a saddle hunter wants in a friction hitch which are not present in any of those mentioned are:
1. One handed operation to remove slack without a tender.
2. The ability to break the friction hitch under the full load of our body. This is necessary to transition into rappel if only in emergency.

I have devised two friction hitches which have these properties. The 523 JRB Ascender in soft bridge mode and the Longhorn Agile Hitch, which is significantly easier to put on the rope. Look what it can do.





JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
 
CharlieTN,

Thanks for the post. Informative for the new guys.. I use the scwabby for my platforms. I'm sure Brocky will chime in. He has some good friction hitches. I personally prefer his Sticht hitch. Grabs well, one handed use, and releases under tension.
 
CharlieTN,

Thanks for the post. Informative for the new guys.. I use the scwabby for my platforms. I'm sure Brocky will chime in. He has some good friction hitches. I personally prefer his Sticht hitch. Grabs well, one handed use, and releases under tension.
That’s one I haven’t tried but I’ve heard it mentioned. I’ll have to look into it. For me, the main thing is the hitch has to be easy enough to move, easy to tie, and especially easy to visually inspect.
 
That’s one I haven’t tried but I’ve heard it mentioned. I’ll have to look into it. For me, the main thing is the hitch has to be easy enough to move, easy to tie, and especially easy to visually inspect.
Very easy to move. Easy to tie? It takes some time and requires a ring. However it grabs great and is very easy to move under tension and is one handed. Easy to inspect? Once you know what your looking for it's simple.
 
That’s one I haven’t tried but I’ve heard it mentioned. I’ll have to look into it. For me, the main thing is the hitch has to be easy enough to move, easy to tie, and especially easy to visually inspect.
There is a thread on friction hitches in the Climbing Methods forum that shows how to tie it. Another option is to search Sticht Hitch by Knotorious for a video, he has other hitches also.
There is a method to tie it without a ring and using only a length of cord.
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Thanks for this post! I've been using a sewn loop prussic of 6mm sterling xtec on my 11mm ropes for a few years and have always had issues with the prussics locking up. I'd heard how the schwabish was easier to use and I don't know why I never did it! I reckon I'd thought you could only do a schwabish with eyes and not a sewn loop. I will be trying this on a tree this week
 

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Just to follow up. If you're reading this thread and you're still using prussic knots. Just put your phone down right now and go re tie them to schwabish knots. I'm really shocked at how much easier that one small change has made climbing saddle hunting easier for me. If the government finds out they'll probably pass a law banning all schwabish knots.

They really do slide easier after being loaded, like If I'm adjusting my tether after hanging for a bit, it's not locked up tight. Still grabs 100% secure and instantly. And using a tender to shorten your linesman one handed is 100 times easier.

I know most of yall already know all this. But there's gotta be some others like me using prussics for years and never even thinking of changing but not knowing what they are missing.
 
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