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Will this work

I use ratcheting straps and prefer the set it gives on the lower cleat. Once you find the sweet spot you can do either ratchet /cam. I just prefer the little extra bite . Heads up and a shout out to the out on a limb crew .I have been toying with a new cleat style something like what you guys did . I absolutely will be DYIng a vertical cleat system for future builds . Great work everyone.
 
IMG_3786.jpg
Amsteel to hold in place and as safety backup. Cam buckle strap, lift seat 3/4 way up, tighten strap, cam down. Like a rock


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View attachment 11079
Amsteel to hold in place and as safety backup. Cam buckle strap, lift seat 3/4 way up, tighten strap, cam down. Like a rock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im new so sorry if this is dumb but 1) is Amsteel sufficient, is the extra strap necessary? 2) could you just repurpose a LW strap instead? Could you girth hitch each end to the seat and then insert into the buckle and tighten? Inserting into the buckle might be a pain but in my mind it seems like it would work
 
Im new so sorry if this is dumb but 1) is Amsteel sufficient, is the extra strap necessary? 2) could you just repurpose a LW strap instead? Could you girth hitch each end to the seat and then insert into the buckle and tighten? Inserting into the buckle might be a pain but in my mind it seems like it would work
My feedback/opinions
1) the Amsteel should be but I think it would be a challenge to figure out how to attach to our style seats and adjust length to properly cam.
2) yes LW strap will definately work. It's what I initially started with but wanted something more user friendly. Rethreading strap thru the buckle in the dark with cold hands was a PIA.

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My feedback/opinions
1) the Amsteel should be but I think it would be a challenge to figure out how to attach to our style seats and adjust length to properly cam.
2) yes LW strap will definately work. It's what I initially started with but wanted something more user friendly. Rethreading strap thru the buckle in the dark with cold hands was a PIA.

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X2 for me!! The DanO strap (s) work the best. I think the amsteel to hold it together will be like the EZ hanger on lone Wolfs... One extra step but way less aggravating
 
X3, what these guys said, as far as the extra step, it is an optional thing and gives some extra foot placement options and is nice when switching shot positions to go around the tree, etc


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I do like that flat hook buckle, may end up with one of those soon just to remove the threading part. However, I always threaded my cam buckles for my stabilizer straps that were on my climbers stands. Hooks could be nice but threading is not the end of the world


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My feedback/opinions
1) the Amsteel should be but I think it would be a challenge to figure out how to attach to our style seats and adjust length to properly cam.
2) yes LW strap will definately work. It's what I initially started with but wanted something more user friendly. Rethreading strap thru the buckle in the dark with cold hands was a PIA.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thanks Steve, what about the seats that have the two wings on each side? If I girth hitched the LW strap to the seat on one side and then hooked the end of the strap to the wing that comes of the seat would that be safe? Or will that tab not hold up?




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Thanks Steve, what about the seats that have the two wings on each side? If I girth hitched the LW strap to the seat on one side and then hooked the end of the strap to the wing that comes of the seat would that be safe? Or will that tab not hold up?




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Will it work..... yes
Will it be safe...... your call

Greg, G2 outdoors, has a YouTube video on how to do that.

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Has anyone used an “S” hook from an old ratchet strap and use that to connect the LW strap to the seat...opposite of the girth hitched side?
 
Yes I tried it too and it will work. Only issue I had was the S radius of the metal hook was starting to bend the aluminum of the seat where I hooked it to. I wasn't comfortable with that.

Want to rephrase above cause it sounds a bit misleading. The seat frame wasn't bending. The S hook was only making contact to the seat frame on the edges so the force when cammed over was causing the edges of the seat that was in contact to "compress? crush? cave?" in. I guess since aluminum is softer than steel?.... hope that made sense...

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