-
The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
-
We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules
Knaider/Swaider tutorial
- Thread starter Peterk1234
- Start date
d_rek
Well-Known Member
You should post some pictures of how you have the webbing run through the adjusters. If I’m not mistaken the adjusters shouldn’t be weight bearing. They simply trap the webbing so that it can’t come undone.
This one is adjustable as short as you need.
- Joined
- May 16, 2018
- Messages
- 1,844
Back to water knot method per @Peterk1234's suggestion. I had used this before to practice while adjusters were shipping so it was easy to tie again. Very solid. A little more strap bulk but not bad.
I think I have an idea to solve the boot slippage I had experienced earlier and that others are mentioning. I cut a 5-6" piece of tubular webbing and inserted each Kn/Sw foot loop inside the "tube" and out the other side. This allows me to slide the tube up and down the Kn/Sw to snug the foot loop firmly against my boot. Seems to hold when I apply pressure to the strap... though admittedly that is testing in my living room only. I'll have to try it on a tree tomorrow and report back. This might only work if you have a full double strap using the water knot. You guys that sew only have one strap and that may not be thick enough to fill/grip the tube and hold it.
Food for thought. I still really like the whoopie idea I found on YouTube and posted above. Just don't want to drop $40 on enough Amsteel to make them. If you have the rope on hand and are inclined to try it I'd love to know how it comes out. I think you need a 7' piece for the Swaider and a 6' piece for the Knaider (if my calculations are correct).
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I think I have an idea to solve the boot slippage I had experienced earlier and that others are mentioning. I cut a 5-6" piece of tubular webbing and inserted each Kn/Sw foot loop inside the "tube" and out the other side. This allows me to slide the tube up and down the Kn/Sw to snug the foot loop firmly against my boot. Seems to hold when I apply pressure to the strap... though admittedly that is testing in my living room only. I'll have to try it on a tree tomorrow and report back. This might only work if you have a full double strap using the water knot. You guys that sew only have one strap and that may not be thick enough to fill/grip the tube and hold it.
Food for thought. I still really like the whoopie idea I found on YouTube and posted above. Just don't want to drop $40 on enough Amsteel to make them. If you have the rope on hand and are inclined to try it I'd love to know how it comes out. I think you need a 7' piece for the Swaider and a 6' piece for the Knaider (if my calculations are correct).
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
- Joined
- May 16, 2018
- Messages
- 1,844
Anybody know anything about Tenex rope? That is what the guy in the YouTube video uses.
Looks like it is quite a bit cheaper than amsteel at about $0.50 per foot at various sites. Looks to be just as easy top spice. Think I saw a 6,000 lb rating.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Looks like it is quite a bit cheaper than amsteel at about $0.50 per foot at various sites. Looks to be just as easy top spice. Think I saw a 6,000 lb rating.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
- Joined
- May 16, 2018
- Messages
- 1,844
Testing today on a practice climb went well as far as the water knots and my cinch tube go. Those that don't want to sew should look at this method. The knots held strong and the cinch tube seemed to solve the boot slippage issue.
The climb itself was not so reassuring. I didn't fall or anything but for some reason I felt much more unstable and nervous than any of my previous practice sessions. I actually gave up after only three steps and decided to try again another day. I think the main issue was my tree had some varying lean to it at different points. Nothing I would have even noticed with my climber but enough to want to force my body sideways as I stepped up the aiders.
Left a little discouraged since the season is drawing so close. If my saddle would just get here so I can do real practice with either the WEs or my HC it would be nice. Sigh....
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Something I've learned is that if I'm not happy in the yard I definitely won't be happy in the woods. I have tried almost every climbing method. A lot of them are fun and work great in the yard. When I get in the woods I don't like them for hunting. I need to be confident AND safe when I'm out there in the woods.
Orion5
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2018
- Messages
- 137
BLUF: If you are going to sew, make sure you know how to sew properly for the application.
So it sounds like some people are having problems with buckles and/or stitching failures. People need to be careful with sewing especially if you are new with it. I am still waiting on all my stuff to come in that I ordered to make mine with all rated weight bearing components. From my research on sewing I learned that the forces applied to the stitching when sewing a foot loop are different than on a loop attached to a small hook or carabineer sized attachment. Essentially the wider eye on the foot loop pulls the straps apart pulling on the stitches, so the forces applied include, not only a downward force vector, but also a pulling the straps apart force vector. (Very technical terms there, LOL) With the smaller eye there isn't a pulling the strap apart force vector. Not sure if that makes any sense or not. If not, let me know and I can try to draw a simple diagram to illustrate. The bottom line is make sure you are sewing properly, and if you aren't sure you are, then consider just using knots or a configuration using pre-sewn/manufactured rated components.
So it sounds like some people are having problems with buckles and/or stitching failures. People need to be careful with sewing especially if you are new with it. I am still waiting on all my stuff to come in that I ordered to make mine with all rated weight bearing components. From my research on sewing I learned that the forces applied to the stitching when sewing a foot loop are different than on a loop attached to a small hook or carabineer sized attachment. Essentially the wider eye on the foot loop pulls the straps apart pulling on the stitches, so the forces applied include, not only a downward force vector, but also a pulling the straps apart force vector. (Very technical terms there, LOL) With the smaller eye there isn't a pulling the strap apart force vector. Not sure if that makes any sense or not. If not, let me know and I can try to draw a simple diagram to illustrate. The bottom line is make sure you are sewing properly, and if you aren't sure you are, then consider just using knots or a configuration using pre-sewn/manufactured rated components.
Besides using the right thread what else is there to consider on sewing properly? Asking for a friend lol
One way to eliminate the multi direction stress on the stitching is to make your loop larger and add a 3 bar adjuster. This should significantly reduce the stress on the stitches and ensure the stress that is there is on a single plane. It also allows me to cinch the loop to my foot.
https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/sewing-resources-and-information.6100/
There is a video series on sewing webbing in this thread. A box x should be plenty strong in this application since these should not be receiving a shock load.
d_rek
Well-Known Member
Where did you source your 3 bar adjuster from? Strapworks?
WOW! gorgeous work! Thanks for the info.
tam9492
Well-Known Member
I've actually been thinking that I need to re-stitch my loop to make it smaller to in an effort to keep it on my foot better. I'm having occasional trouble with the bands. This should do the trick!
d_rek
Well-Known Member
It really needs to be tight around the foot to stay in place, otherwise it is prone to falling off. That's why a slide is nice because you can cinch it up tight to your foot. Plus it makes it easier when putting the loop on.
tam9492
Well-Known Member
Yep. I've practiced a lot, and it gets tight with the bands. But, two thoughts: the bands stretch (wear) when under a lot of continued force, and my loops were sewn large enough that, when under pressure, the bands were being stretched wider than they should have. That led me to think that I should just put some more stitches in the loop to make the opening smaller, but with the slides, I don't see a need to do that.
