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Bridge Basics

S

SaddleMaster

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2015
Messages
59
Please compare/contrast fixed versus adjustable bridges.

What determines your choice of one over the other?
What determines the length?
What knots/hardware are you using to attach to the saddle?
What knots/hardware are you using to make it adjustable?
What determines your choice of webbing versus rope?
What types of rope and webbing are used?

There are comments about these things spread throughout the forum. It would be nice for a newb like me to have that "everything you ever wanted to know about bridges" thread.

I'm still testing the waters with saddles and just got my first sitdrag the other day. I tested it out at ground level last night and I'm thinking this thing is more comfortable than sitting on a stand. I'm getting ready to put together the bridge and tree strap and trying to determine which way to go with some of these things.
 
Saddles are personal, hence all the modifying you see on here. Lots of ways to skin the cat as they say and all of us are constantly refining our saddles as new ideas show up. I had an adjustable bridge, but went to fixed. In my opinion bridge length determines pinch. I like a long bridge and short hook up height. So for me, Im 6'2 @ 235lbs and use eye level hook up, with 36" bridge(36" x 1" runners sling) connected via carabiners. A few of us are messing around with amsteel ideas, see that thread for more info. I may do away with the carabiners and splice right to the saddle loops.
 
kenn1320 said:
Saddles are personal, hence all the modifying you see on here. Lots of ways to skin the cat as they say and all of us are constantly refining our saddles as new ideas show up. I had an adjustable bridge, but went to fixed. In my opinion bridge length determines pinch. I like a long bridge and short hook up height. So for me, Im 6'2 @ 235lbs and use eye level hook up, with 36" bridge(36" x 1" runners sling) connected via carabiners. A few of us are messing around with amsteel ideas, see that thread for more info. I may do away with the carabiners and splice right to the saddle loops.
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I typed out a long response but for some reason it messed up and didnt post lol, basically I said the same thing. I prefer a longer bridge with shorter hookup to minimize hip pinch. I will say that the SitDrag doesnt seem to have much at all so you might be able to get away with a shorter bridge. My next will be Amsteel for sure with spliced end loops. Super light weight and extremely strong!
 
As they said, everything about this style of hunting is personal. As an example, many are talking about platforms for standing on. I stand on tree steps and have no interest in a platform. I use a fixed 24" bridge. Some like the same length as me, others prefer much longer.


What determines your choice of one over the other?
After I got a New Tribe Evolution with an adjustable bridge, I quickly found myself adjusting the bridge to the same length every time. So I figured, why not just get rid of all this excess material?
What determines the length?
The length that I kept coming to was 24" from end to end (so 12 on each side of tether). That consistently worked for me and I went with it.
What knots/hardware are you using to attach to the saddle?
The evolution has paws, so I have a stopper knot on the outside of each paw. On my custom saddles I am using a light weight locking carabiner.
What knots/hardware are you using to make it adjustable?
New tribe used a blakes hitch.
What determines your choice of webbing versus rope?
Webbing is lighter. But rope is more durable so you have to keep an eye on any webbing sling and replace as needed.
What types of rope and webbing are used?
Yale bandit is a popular rope. Any webbing that is rated for climbing uses. 1 inch tubular webbing is popular.
 
Sounds like most are settling on a fixed bridge. Are you using a figure 8 knot to tie to the carabiners? Could you also use a figure 8 follow through to tie directly to the sling if you didn't want the carabiners? You also mentioned splicing which would make it lighter and the knots wouldn't get in the way.

So with a fixed bridge you're adjusting your distance from the tree based on moving the tether up and down and also with some other adjustment provided by the tether - Ropeman, Blakes Hitch, etc?
 
Yep. I use a ropeman on the tether to fine tune. As far as knots I've always just used double overhand knots with a decent tail sticking out. Never had a problem that way


Sent from space
 
I dont really adjust distance from the tree as im not sitting in the saddle. I basically stand the whole time and just use the saddle as something to lean against(like you would lean against a counter). This is why a platform is so valuable. I dont walk around the tree, i shoot around it like DaveT shows in his video. Very difficult to spin around or step over to another step vs using a platform.
 
SaddleMaster said:
Sounds like most are settling on a fixed bridge. Are you using a figure 8 knot to tie to the carabiners? Could you also use a figure 8 follow through to tie directly to the sling if you didn't want the carabiners? You also mentioned splicing which would make it lighter and the knots wouldn't get in the way.

So with a fixed bridge you're adjusting your distance from the tree based on moving the tether up and down and also with some other adjustment provided by the tether - Ropeman, Blakes Hitch, etc?
Click to expand...

A figure 8 is a good knot to tie in. Some are using pre-sewn climbing runners for this purpose also. You could tie directly in to the sling, but the "climbing recommendation" is to not have soft contact points. So sling to metal to bridge. This eliminates having one soft material rip through another. Now whether you or anyone follows that is up to the user's discretion.

For the tether, I almost always put it around eye level, but at least somewhere around head height. I just adjust the length with a ropman like you said.

kenn1320 said:
I dont really adjust distance from the tree as im not sitting in the saddle. I basically stand the whole time and just use the saddle as something to lean against(like you would lean against a counter). This is why a platform is so valuable. I dont walk around the tree, i shoot around it like DaveT shows in his video. Very difficult to spin around or step over to another step vs using a platform.
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I think Dave and Kenn are in the minority here, but the beauty of saddle hunting is you can make it do whatever works for you. I am the opposite, I never use a platform, sit in my saddle and walk around the tree to shoot. :D
 
redsquirrel said:
I think Dave and Kenn are in the minority here, but the beauty of saddle hunting is you can make it do whatever works for you. I am the opposite, I never use a platform, sit in my saddle and walk around the tree to shoot. :D
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Some of us are just born with higher intelligence :). Just kidding. I don't believe in a cookie cutter approach to most things... We have to find what works best for us and our personalities and our circumstances.... And Im glad it's that way as i learn a lot from you younger guys.

Ps. I still think (i hope not though) you guys hanging off t screws may make a strong case for Darwinian evolution though ;)
 
DaveT1963 said:
redsquirrel said:
Ps. I still think (i hope not though) you guys hanging off t screws may make a strong case for Darwinian evolution though ;)
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Click to expand...

I hope not either but the comment made me chuckle.

there are some things on here I would never do and the hunter/climber says are perfectly safe. It all comes down to the level of risk you're willing to accept to shoot whitetail deer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can only think of a couple trees that are so big the T screw would be the only way to saddle hunt from them. I hunt the tree next to it instead. :lol:
 
Question for the Forum: I hunt from a Guido's Web with 11 mm static kernmantle rope - Ropeman1 - 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) for my tie- in. I bought the rope and sling from MTS Runner several years back (good stuff but I don't think he's selling anymore..MTS Runner if you have a lead on where you got your slings it would be appreciated) but am planning on replacing it this year out of abundance of caution and the use I've put on it. I have two redundancy's that I use with the rope: (1) an overhand knot loop at the end of the rope that I hook into the carabiner coming off the Ropeman 1; and (2) a prussic knot that is also attached to the carabiner (that's attached to the Ropeman 1) and loosely attached to the rope above the Ropeman 1. I don't have any redundancy, however, should the climbing sling (bridge) fail. So it's important to me that I use the strongest 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) that I can find (a hunting friendly color would be a bonus) . Any ideas? Thanks.
 
DXD said:
Question for the Forum: I hunt from a Guido's Web with 11 mm static kernmantle rope - Ropeman1 - 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) for my tie- in. I bought the rope and sling from MTS Runner several years back (good stuff but I don't think he's selling anymore..MTS Runner if you have a lead on where you got your slings it would be appreciated) but am planning on replacing it this year out of abundance of caution and the use I've put on it. I have two redundancy's that I use with the rope: (1) an overhand knot loop at the end of the rope that I hook into the carabiner coming off the Ropeman 1; and (2) a prussic knot that is also attached to the carabiner (that's attached to the Ropeman 1) and loosely attached to the rope above the Ropeman 1. I don't have any redundancy, however, should the climbing sling (bridge) fail. So it's important to me that I use the strongest 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) that I can find (a hunting friendly color would be a bonus) . Any ideas? Thanks.
Click to expand...


I actually had him build me my first ropes for my sticks and a tether and bridge for my guidos web.... he was a great guy to deal with. I think you can go to any climbing store on line and get a 1 inch climbing runner - that is what I did when it came time to replace mine.
 
DXD said:
Question for the Forum: I hunt from a Guido's Web with 11 mm static kernmantle rope - Ropeman1 - 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) for my tie- in. I bought the rope and sling from MTS Runner several years back (good stuff but I don't think he's selling anymore..MTS Runner if you have a lead on where you got your slings it would be appreciated) but am planning on replacing it this year out of abundance of caution and the use I've put on it. I have two redundancy's that I use with the rope: (1) an overhand knot loop at the end of the rope that I hook into the carabiner coming off the Ropeman 1; and (2) a prussic knot that is also attached to the carabiner (that's attached to the Ropeman 1) and loosely attached to the rope above the Ropeman 1. I don't have any redundancy, however, should the climbing sling (bridge) fail. So it's important to me that I use the strongest 1" X 24" climbing sling (bridge) that I can find (a hunting friendly color would be a bonus) . Any ideas? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Some of us wear a rock climbing harness. We attach the lose end of the tether to it, so if the bridge or ropeman1 fail, we are still connected to the tree. They also double as a great lineman belt connector when climbing/prepping trees. You can also do the one stick climbing method as well.
 
Agreed. If you have an REI, they will solve your problem. If you don't mind the DIY route, 1/4 Amsteel Blue is stronger than a climbing runner.
 
g2outdoors said:
Agreed. If you have an REI, they will solve your problem. If you don't mind the DIY route, 1/4 Amsteel Blue is stronger than a climbing runner.
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Not only stronger, but all the cool guys are using them this yr. :cool:
 
kenn1320 said:
Some of us wear a rock climbing harness. We attach the lose end of the tether to it, so if the bridge or ropeman1 fail, we are still connected to the tree. They also double as a great lineman belt connector when climbing/prepping trees. You can also do the one stick climbing method as well.
Click to expand...
Excellent idea, thank you. I use a Treehopper climbing belt to setup my Jim Stepps but than have been taking it off when I put on the Web and re-climb to hunt. I think I'll just leave it on and attach the end of my tie-in rope to one of the D rings on the Treehopper belt. It would be a less graceful "fall" than a rock climbing harness but would still keep me from hitting the ground in the event of a bridge failure.
 
g2outdoors said:
Agreed. If you have an REI, they will solve your problem. If you don't mind the DIY route, 1/4 Amsteel Blue is stronger than a climbing runner.
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with this...do you have a link to any "how to" type posts that address it? Does the diy part entail sewing? If it does I'm out.
 
New sewing, but you do have to Splice. Splicing is SUPER EASY. Waaaaaay easier than sewing.

I go over my DIY bridge in this video. Also, I put the links I followed to finish it. Hope it helps!

 
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