Is it worth getting for Cranford steps... i just got someIt's made of awesome.
I think it might be aluminum but I'm not sure. I also couldn't find it on the website. It is very light, but I can see some slight deformation from all the use in the hole the step goes in, that is why I suspect it's aluminum.Guys that have the ultimate steptool, is it made of steel or aluminum?
I have never used it with cranfords, and I'm not sure it would work with how they pivot around the screw portion, but they go in so easy that I don't think it is necessary.Is it worth getting for Cranford steps... i just got some
That is what I thought. I guess it makes buying Cranfords an even better dealI think it might be aluminum but I'm not sure. I also couldn't find it on the website. It is very light, but I can see some slight deformation from all the use in the hole the step goes in, that is why I suspect it's aluminum.
I have never used it with cranfords, and I'm not sure it would work with how they pivot around the screw portion, but they go in so easy that I don't think it is necessary.
I take my previous statement back. I have never used their rod steps, and I'm sure they go in very nice, but the tool will definitely make them go in easier.Is it worth getting for Cranford steps... i just got some
I just tried a rod step on a pine. It went in like butter. I have 4 folding cranfords and the rod steps seem no different.I take my previous statement back. I have never used their rod steps, and I'm sure they go in very nice, but the tool will definitely make them go in easier.
They are pretty easy to make. I made my first one for a couple bucks out of some parts I had laying around. Even had the mallet head from an old plastic hammer.Thanks. I wanted to make one
I really like the point idea. I'm going to add one to the tool I madeI made my own. I like the Ultimate tool concept but wanted to make a few changes plus I like to tinker. I started out with a 9" length of 5/16"thick by 1" aluminum flat stock. I wanted to use 1/4" stock but the 5/16" is what I had available without having to order it.
For a handle I used a 3/8", grade 8 bolt 4-3/4" long. I ground down the threaded end with a belt sander to a point to mimic the taper of the Ameristep screw in steps. To make a "spinning" handle it took a 5/8" diameter piece of plastic, drilled out and counter bored to fit over the bolt. The hook end is a piece of angle iron milled to accept the step and attached to the aluminum with 2, grade 8 #10-32 flat head machine screws.
The point on the inside of the handle is to create a starter hole to more easily start the tree step. A good Wack with the point makes a divot about 1/4"-3/8" in the tree. When starting a step in the divot, it will start easily and only requires one hand instead of two hands (one holding the steps and one pounding the steps in) like the Ultimate tool requires. So far all of my tests indicate it works pretty well.
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I made my own. I like the Ultimate tool concept but wanted to make a few changes plus I like to tinker. I started out with a 9" length of 5/16"thick by 1" aluminum flat stock. I wanted to use 1/4" stock but the 5/16" is what I had available without having to order it.
For a handle I used a 3/8", grade 8 bolt 4-3/4" long. I ground down the threaded end with a belt sander to a point to mimic the taper of the Ameristep screw in steps. To make a "spinning" handle it took a 5/8" diameter piece of plastic, drilled out and counter bored to fit over the bolt. The hook end is a piece of angle iron milled to accept the step and attached to the aluminum with 2, grade 8 #10-32 flat head machine screws.
The point on the inside of the handle is to create a starter hole to more easily start the tree step. A good Wack with the point makes a divot about 1/4"-3/8" in the tree. When starting a step in the divot, it will start easily and only requires one hand instead of two hands (one holding the steps and one pounding the steps in) like the Ultimate tool requires. So far all of my tests indicate it works pretty well.