It's all good.... I've been tinkering with enough of it to know the process to get my stuff shooting right. I bare shaft to 20 before I fletch them
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Arrow building
- Thread starter slonstdy
- Start date
Flight and your nock end of the arrow after impact. They will be pointing slightly off from launch point even if your dead on hitting impact. Once they fly good and the nock end is pointing at the place the arrow launched I know it's ok to start fletching and begin shooting broadheads
Homebrew454
Well-Known Member
What about paper tuning bare shafts back at 10 yards? I just did that last year and then put on my FOBs. Should I shot the shafts at farther distances as stated above or would this be fine?
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Gamover06
Well-Known Member
Its all personal preference. Paper tuning works great. I will paper tune in the shop then shoot bare shaft, fletched field, and fletched broadhead. I want all three to be grouping and I typically work to 30 yards and stop.
Gamover06
Well-Known Member
Ok so might have missed read this earlier. The 400 grain to 800 grain is that different shaft so the spine is correct or all on the same spine. If you have used different spined arrows and getting those results it just means your bow is really tuned well that it can handle the different weights but if your using the same arrow specs (spine and length) and putting that much weight on it and not getting any tail that is confusing but great I guess. Have you stepped back farther then 30? You have to have an arrow that is extremely under or over spined with that much difference and you should see a tail left or right and at 30 yards you should be off to the left or right also. I could see 100 grains but 400 grains difference is way to much.
like.2.fly
Well-Known Member
This is, of course, highly dependent on the type of target material you are shooting into. Solid non-directional material, like a non-layered broadhead foam block or 3D animal target can preserve bareshaft impact angle, thus making it readable and useful. But targets of thin horizontal foam layers or stuffed cloth can greatly influence/change shaft angles as they penetrate, and your readings will be misleading.
Yeah.... Should have said that. I use 3d target
Never stepped back that far with bare shaft. I do 10 then 20 and call it good. I set up for 20 and under in hunting situations....25+ and I'm not confident in that shot due to the animal moving. I did spend a lot of time getting my bow tuned.... All weights I shot are the same victory 350 at 29'', 200gr insert, 3 2'' feathers and a nock
Kurt
Well-Known Member
It does sound crazy, but I watched a bunch of Ranch Fairy videos, and he uses a .300 spine to build all types of arrows with different total weights and FoCs. I also heard in one video where he called into question the accuracy of spine charts. It made me a bit nervous because I just bought a dozen of .250 spine shafts and didn't want to be stuck with shafts that would be to stiff to tune. I did contact him and he thought it would be fine. I'll see when I get them and start building.
DaWiz9578
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear you reached out to him for some input. Go straight to the source.
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GTel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2019
- Messages
- 233
I started watching RF videos a few weeks ago as well, ordered the 100g brass inserts, Ethics Ranch Fairy field point pack and Gold Tip Hunter XT 300 spine so I could start building me some adult arrows. I've been paper tuning for two decades but always with vanes on the arrow so bare shaft tuning was a new idea to me. I took vanes off two of my arrows and they only had a slight tear. Adjusted knock point and QAD and was shooting bare shaft bullets with my standard 340 spine 100g setup. Then I started shooting all the different Ethics fp weights on my 340 spine and on the new 300 spines. For the 340 spine, the 225g shot bullets. For the 340 spine, the 400g shot the best with less than a quarter inch tear. Going to try different length arrows to see if that helps gets bullets. All shots at 10 yards so the arrow doesn't have time to straighten out.
I've cut my own arrows with a dremel mounted in a jig I made years ago and square the ends/spin them on a Firenock tuner. I never thought of rotating the inserts while spinning and that helped straighten out a bunch of my arrows. I used the drill bit tip @Gamover06 wrote about to knock out the nocks, worked great - I whip the arrow a few times and it pushes the nock out a bit at a time. And use a small enough bit that it slides freely when you whip it.
I had never thought of tuning the nock and always just relegated those arrows to practice only. Started using the RF nock tuning method and was amazed how great it worked.
I haven't seen RF paper tune but he mentions Big Mike doing it and shows a pic of it. I tried using the RF method of lining up the arrow to where I was standing but that only gives representation of the horizontal plane. And how good is the human eye at telling something is actually straight? We wouldn't need levels and squaring devices if it was and I don't want my arrows to be 'good enough' if I'm spending this much time tuning them. The paper tuning shows both horizontal and vertical flight and let's you know with 100% certainty that the arrow is flying true or not, so definitely recommend it. I'm not sure how anyone would get all weights to fly perfectly based on what I experienced in this pic and what RF shows in Big Mike's paper tune results. I'm shooting Bowtech Carbon Knight 60# 31" arrows.
PS - All the ones that aren't marked are the 300 spine 400g while I was nock tuning. I end up right back where I started since I had already nock tuned with another weight.
I've cut my own arrows with a dremel mounted in a jig I made years ago and square the ends/spin them on a Firenock tuner. I never thought of rotating the inserts while spinning and that helped straighten out a bunch of my arrows. I used the drill bit tip @Gamover06 wrote about to knock out the nocks, worked great - I whip the arrow a few times and it pushes the nock out a bit at a time. And use a small enough bit that it slides freely when you whip it.
I had never thought of tuning the nock and always just relegated those arrows to practice only. Started using the RF nock tuning method and was amazed how great it worked.
I haven't seen RF paper tune but he mentions Big Mike doing it and shows a pic of it. I tried using the RF method of lining up the arrow to where I was standing but that only gives representation of the horizontal plane. And how good is the human eye at telling something is actually straight? We wouldn't need levels and squaring devices if it was and I don't want my arrows to be 'good enough' if I'm spending this much time tuning them. The paper tuning shows both horizontal and vertical flight and let's you know with 100% certainty that the arrow is flying true or not, so definitely recommend it. I'm not sure how anyone would get all weights to fly perfectly based on what I experienced in this pic and what RF shows in Big Mike's paper tune results. I'm shooting Bowtech Carbon Knight 60# 31" arrows.
PS - All the ones that aren't marked are the 300 spine 400g while I was nock tuning. I end up right back where I started since I had already nock tuned with another weight.
I never tried the paper...RF makes a good point in one of those videos in a bare shaft isn't a fletched arrow and a fletched arrow isn't a arrow with a broadheads... Some of the ones I made would shot great bare and fletched but wouldn't shoot with broadheads. Then I suspect, if your bows tuned up, you either start cutting the total arrow length or adding/subtracting bow draw poundage. But once I get to the fletched arrow stage all the different point weights screwed on to that tuned arrow fly great
DaWiz9578
Well-Known Member
papertune looks good. I just put a 250 spine with one weight and shoot the 250 with another weight right next to it and pick which is straighter. if weights were the same I would tweak poundage up or down. this is just in the determining recipe phase, so no nock tuning and just had lancaster glue in the inserts. dont have a paper tuner accessible (or havent built one), but if you have one great way to save your eyes from squinting trying to compare arrows haha.I started watching RF videos a few weeks ago as well, ordered the 100g brass inserts, Ethics Ranch Fairy field point pack and Gold Tip Hunter XT 300 spine so I could start building me some adult arrows. I've been paper tuning for two decades but always with vanes on the arrow so bare shaft tuning was a new idea to me. I took vanes off two of my arrows and they only had a slight tear. Adjusted knock point and QAD and was shooting bare shaft bullets with my standard 340 spine 100g setup. Then I started shooting all the different Ethics fp weights on my 340 spine and on the new 300 spines. For the 340 spine, the 225g shot bullets. For the 340 spine, the 400g shot the best with less than a quarter inch tear. Going to try different length arrows to see if that helps gets bullets. All shots at 10 yards so the arrow doesn't have time to straighten out.
I've cut my own arrows with a dremel mounted in a jig I made years ago and square the ends/spin them on a Firenock tuner. I never thought of rotating the inserts while spinning and that helped straighten out a bunch of my arrows. I used the drill bit tip @Gamover06 wrote about to knock out the nocks, worked great - I whip the arrow a few times and it pushes the nock out a bit at a time. And use a small enough bit that it slides freely when you whip it.
I had never thought of tuning the nock and always just relegated those arrows to practice only. Started using the RF nock tuning method and was amazed how great it worked.
I haven't seen RF paper tune but he mentions Big Mike doing it and shows a pic of it. I tried using the RF method of lining up the arrow to where I was standing but that only gives representation of the horizontal plane. And how good is the human eye at telling something is actually straight? We wouldn't need levels and squaring devices if it was and I don't want my arrows to be 'good enough' if I'm spending this much time tuning them. The paper tuning shows both horizontal and vertical flight and let's you know with 100% certainty that the arrow is flying true or not, so definitely recommend it. I'm not sure how anyone would get all weights to fly perfectly based on what I experienced in this pic and what RF shows in Big Mike's paper tune results. I'm shooting Bowtech Carbon Knight 60# 31" arrows.
PS - All the ones that aren't marked are the 300 spine 400g while I was nock tuning. I end up right back where I started since I had already nock tuned with another weight.
new RF video...we must not be the only ones talking about it. iIl say im surprised at hwo few people have subscribed to his channel. im sure it will start to take off, but with how long he has been at it...
Gamover06
Well-Known Member
I went with 250 also a couple years ago. I would rather be over spinned everyday of the week. I have watched his videos and do agree with a lot of what he is saying. So times the adding that much weigh and still getting great results baffles me just because of what others have stated about being under spinned. I personally have never shot severely under spinned arrows I just don't want to risk it. But the proof is in the pudding I guess. This is a great thread.
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2019
- Messages
- 1,373
Just to add a few things... I bought a fletching jig last year and do enjoy fletching - and then repairing lost fletchings - myself. IMO it’s almost impossible to build an FOC arrow that’s not crazy heavy with FMJs. I built arrows in line with OPs target specs with Axis 300s, brass inserts, and I shoot 125 gr points. I think I’m 515-525, and sometimes wonder if I shouldn’t find a slightly lighter shaft, for whitetail. I haven’t yet attempted insert removal. Remember if you do happen to want 3 blade broadheads to align to fletchings, light grinding on the shaft allows you to adjust where the broadhead threads seat tight. I’m always shooting some bareshafts with fletched, at least out to 20-30 yards. Farthest Ive personally shot bareshafts through paper is 15 yards, and if those look good I’m probably going to shoot fine with fletchings on, good enough for deer at <35 yards anyway. I shoot fixed well at the range, but I need to experiment out of the JX3 this season, because if I can’t keep good consistent form out of that, I’ll probably stick with Spitfires for the form forgiveness. Shooting fixed well at the range may or may not mean you’re doing the same from the tree.
The project dikdik bow and arrow build was pretty wild....40something pound draw and 1000+ arrow
mattfish
Active Member
I found this to be an interesting podcast from John Dudley. He is very successful target archer as well as hunter for those you maybe unfamiliar with him.
The podcast focuses on arrow building and rating what HE feels is important in arrow building ranking them from 1-10 in importance.
The podcast focuses on arrow building and rating what HE feels is important in arrow building ranking them from 1-10 in importance.
Nock On Archery: PC 232 - Arrow Priorities with Aron Snyder on Apple Podcasts
Show Nock On Archery, Ep PC 232 - Arrow Priorities with Aron Snyder - May 29, 2019
podcasts.apple.com