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fixed bridge for sit drag

W

Waymore

Active Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
199
So I have a sit drag and have been looking through the all the info but sorry if I missed this. I want to put a fixed bridge probably in the 24-28in range. What do you think is the best material and way to fasten to the SD? I Probably would tie a knot since I have no sewing skills or equipment to do it. I think I read people are splicing amsteel blue rope but I don't trust myself to do that right either. So I am thinking 1 inch tubular webbing or rope. I am not concerned about weight since it is so short but safety would be #1. Also I like the idea of putting a belt on to wear to stand. Probably try to glue one on.

Thanks
 
Do not glue it, the elements will eventually break down the glue. If you look back through the custom sit drag posts ( the one with 15 pages) if you look closely at the sit drag pics I posted you can see that I used two buckles from a safety harness to make a fixed bridge. It allowed me to adjust it till I was happy with it. I did sew the end of it so that it couldn't back out through the buckle. I now have a fixed bridge ( look at the post your 2016 set up) that I sewed using a speedy stitcher that I bought from Joanne's fab brick for 15.00. I have also used the the heavy duty thread and needles that you get from marine stores as well (FSE Robline is the brand).
 
I use 1" tubular webbing tied with a water knot. it's simple and light weight, I just have to inspect the knots before I hang from a tree to make sure they haven't slipped.
 
I suggest getting the speedy stitcher sewing awl. From Amazon it's under 10 bucks and there are videos how to use it on YouTube. I had never sewn before and I did a little the other day. Looks like crap but holds better than glue.
 
The glue was just for the belt just to keep the SD from sliding down. Maybe I will pick up the sewing awl. So when tying the bridge in are you tying a knot to each side of the SD or just one knot joining the bridge together to make a loop?
 
Waymore said:
So I have a sit drag and have been looking through the all the info but sorry if I missed this. I want to put a fixed bridge probably in the 24-28in range. What do you think is the best material and way to fasten to the SD? I Probably would tie a knot since I have no sewing skills or equipment to do it. I think I read people are splicing amsteel blue rope but I don't trust myself to do that right either. So I am thinking 1 inch tubular webbing or rope. I am not concerned about weight since it is so short but safety would be #1. Also I like the idea of putting a belt on to wear to stand. Probably try to glue one on.

Thanks
Click to expand...
You're best and safest option for a bridge would be to put a climbing rated carabiner on each loop of the sit and drag. Then get a piece of climbing rope and tie a figure 8 on a bight on each end and attach it to the carabiners. http://www.climbingtechniques.org/figure-eight-on-a-bight.html
The speedy stitcher will work great for sewing a belt on to hold it up. I strongly recommend that you pick up a rock climbing harness to use as a backup with the sit and drag because the sit and drag is only rated to be used at ground level.
 
Thanks Red. I was trying to eliminate the carabiners. If I go that route I would probably use a runner. I do have a rc harness I will use as backup
 
Waymore said:
Thanks Red. I was trying to eliminate the carabiners. If I go that route I would probably use a runner. I do have a rc harness I will use as backup
Click to expand...
Ok, no problem. Generally they don't recommend having a soft contact point on another soft contact point.
 
Don't be afraid to splice amsteel blue. It's super easy. Plus, amsteel is pound for pound (or ounce for ounce) stronger than any other type of rope out there.

I spliced my bridge and in the description of the video on YouTube I link to the videos that taught me how to do it.

 
Thinking about this too...I was just out shooting in my SitDrag using the original strap attached around the tree with a Carabiner.

Was thinking about using a runner with two carabiners. But if I have to add too much bulk to this I might as well use my NewTribe.
 
I have an Amsteel tether spliced directly to my SD like G2 does. I really like it and you can't get any lighter than that. Amsteel is SUPER easy to splice there are several youtube vids on how to do it.
 
g2outdoors said:
Don't be afraid to splice amsteel blue. It's super easy. Plus, amsteel is pound for pound (or ounce for ounce) stronger than any other type of rope out there.

I spliced my bridge and in the description of the video on YouTube I link to the videos that taught me how to do it.

Click to expand...
flinginairos said:
I have an Amsteel tether spliced directly to my SD like G2 does. I really like it and you can't get any lighter than that. Amsteel is SUPER easy to splice there are several youtube vids on how to do it.
Click to expand...
Question for you guys. In climbing they try to avoid soft contact point on soft contact point, the theory being that the one contact point could rip through the other in the case of a fall. So you would go runner to biner to runner.
Do you guys think in even a short fall the amsteel bridge could rip through that webbing? That amsteel is seriously strong.

Just food for thought. Always thinking safety first.
 
redsquirrel said:
Question for you guys. In climbing they try to avoid soft contact point on soft contact point, the theory being that the one contact point could rip through the other in the case of a fall. So you would go runner to biner to runner.
Do you guys think in even a short fall the amsteel bridge could rip through that webbing? That amsteel is seriously strong.

Just food for thought. Always thinking safety first.
Click to expand...

I guess it would be possible. I don't think in our case the soft contact point would be a big issue since a "fall" while using a saddle would most likely be a slip from a stick or platform. I never let myself get to the point where I would fall more than a foot if I would somehow slip. Anything more than that it may be a concern? Good question tho Red, I honestly hadn't thought about it much.
 
I've never really thought about that. I certainly hope it doesn't happen. ouch.

It seems like it wouldn't though...especially considering we are rolling up the webbing loops and sewing the "layers" together. My webbing loops are folded in thirds then sewn through to make clipping the lineman belt on and off easier.
 
That sitdrag webbing isn't like normal webbing that I see anyway. Be careful up there!
 
g2outdoors said:
I've never really thought about that. I certainly hope it doesn't happen. ouch.

It seems like it wouldn't though...especially considering we are rolling up the webbing loops and sewing the "layers" together. My webbing loops are folded in thirds then sewn through to make clipping the lineman belt on and off easier.
Click to expand...

Same here. I also have the spliced loops on my amsteel very tight around the folded webbing of the SD. I can't see it cutting through that very easy.
 
SO yeah....after a bit of experimentation I am finding what you guys have...SHORT Bridge is better. Also, carabiners can dig into your sides when sitting forward. I am comfortable with a water knot tied webbing. You could add an anti-abrasion layer at the loops maybe. Gorilla tape if you are lazy :)

An advantage to a tied sling or a clipped on runner is that you won't always have the same contact points. A disadvantage to the tied water knot is you just have to make sure it isn't in your way to pivot. You also have to make sure you clip across the whole runner and not just one side.... You could fasten the two sides together (not structural, just to neaten it up) but you want to keep it where it disperses the load evenly and slides freely as you pivot.
 
justsomedude said:
SO yeah....after a bit of experimentation I am finding what you guys have...SHORT Bridge is better. Also, carabiners can dig into your sides when sitting forward. I am comfortable with a water knot tied webbing. You could add an anti-abrasion layer at the loops maybe. Gorilla tape if you are lazy :)

An advantage to a tied sling or a clipped on runner is that you won't always have the same contact points. A disadvantage to the tied water knot is you just have to make sure it isn't in your way to pivot. You also have to make sure you clip across the whole runner and not just one side.... You could fasten the two sides together (not structural, just to neaten it up) but you want to keep it where it disperses the load evenly and slides freely as you pivot.
Click to expand...

Spliced Amsteel solves all your problems...just sayin ;)
 
I watched 1 video tonight and spliced 1/4" amsteel easily. I used a piece of old aluminum arrow with the swedged end as a fid. With 6" of bury it seems locked, but I might stitch it since they typ recommend 10-15" of bury.
 
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