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How I use the Wild Edge Stepps

I feel like it'll be just like everything else and take time to figure out. You just made it look too easy Cain! I messed around a little more tonight and improved a bit. Consistently getting the same spacing is the hardest part.
 
I always tie the top step as high as I can and put the lower step 1/2 the distance from the top step to the ground. Then once I step up on the 1st step, it’s always tie one as high as I can and the spacing stays consistent.
 
Ok so I was curious if anyone tried Cains method by putting a runner girth hitched on each of the lineman belt loops on the saddle (kestrel) and then having a carabiner connected to both runners to use to connect to the step at waist level. This would take the need out of having to use my bridge. I know this would not load the carabiner correctly, would that be an issue since there is no chance of falling any distance from that protection point?
 
Cain said:
Yea. When I first purchased them, I practiced with them and was like there is no way I'm going to use these. So I put them in a closet for a few months and went back to using my sticks, but never could quit thinking about how compact they were. So I got them back out and played with them for a few days and got to noticing how fast I was getting with them. Now when I hunt I can be at hunting heights in just a few minutes. It's just a learning curve and I'm glad I put in the time with them. My father in law still hunts with an API climber and when he sees me walking in the woods with everything I need to climb any tree, he says " this just ain't fair". LOL
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Im there right now, i am struggling to use the WE aider and the cam over...i almost quit but i am gonna start over and just use them with smaller spacing until I get it. I want to use these bad i know i just need to put in the time it will come.


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Doesn't look like it would necessarily easy to go back down the tree with this method??

Edit: must have missed that part of the video the first go... doesn't look like a problem
 
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Ive had a few of these steps loosen on initial step up due to type of tree. Method seems solid, but hooking my tether to one of these steps aint gonna happen. Curious Cane, how did the 175lb dummy drop work out?
 
Still haven’t done it. I may mess with it after hunting season is over.
 
I bought some of these from Jim years ago and couldn’t get use to them I ended up throwing most of them away. Now that I’m in the saddle I bought 16 with bag from a friend that is scared to death of them. I like them a lot now. I’m going to try this as well as G2’s five step aider method. This is what I love about this site, so many smart people.
 
flinginairos said:
Maybe it was mentioned earlier in the thread, but what about using a small rock climbing sling hitched around the horizontal bar of the WE step instead of hooking the biner directly to the bar. @redsquirrel does this on the strap of his Silent Approach steps to connect his adjustable aider while climbing. I think it would eliminate the risk of the biner sliding to one side and also eliminate noise. Just a thought I had after seeing how Red used them on his straps at Saddlepalooza. The only issue I see is it may position your body back a little farther.
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Yep... That's my plan. I use a short climbing sling clipped into a prusic above my ropeman1 as a backup anyway.
Now I have a reason to use it on the way up!
 
I don't know. Call me Mr. Negative, Mr. Overthinker, but my concern with the Cain method would be for someone who didn't get their bottom or lower step properly adjusted/cammed over, and it kicks out. Potentially shifting all weight in whichever direction the step kicked out, to the biner clipped to the upper step. Biner and all weight sliding hard to one side of the step, causing it to kick out, and potentially losing the knot.

If the WE steps had 4 even points of contact, I'd be less concerned with the potential side-loading effect of this scenario.
 
Pic1 said:
I don't know. Call me Mr. Negative, Mr. Overthinker, but my concern with the Cain method would be for someone who didn't get their bottom or lower step properly adjusted/cammed over, and it kicks out. Potentially shifting all weight in whichever direction the step kicked out, to the biner clipped to the upper step. Biner and all weight sliding hard to one side of the step, causing it to kick out, and potentially losing the knot.

If the WE steps had 4 even points of contact, I'd be less concerned with the potential side-loading effect of this scenario.
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Take a table outside and move it around your yard. You rarely will get 4 points of contact on an uneven surface. Move a tripod around the yard and you always get three points.
I’ve accidentally uncammed my steps with a pull up rope and they held my weight fine. I’ve also had them turn to the side some with no ill effect. Unless the weld on the crossbar broke It’s not coming untied unless you untie it. It feels a little sketchy when you first start using them. Get a dozen or so climbs under your belt and you’ll be good enough setting them that you will rarely have one move. On the few occasions they do move by then you will trust them and not freak out.
 
EricS said:
Take a table outside and move it around your yard. You rarely will get 4 points of contact on an uneven surface. Move a tripod around the yard and you always get three points.
I’ve accidentally uncammed my steps with a pull up rope and they held my weight fine. I’ve also had them turn to the side some with no ill effect. Unless the weld on the crossbar broke It’s not coming untied unless you untie it. It feels a little sketchy when you first start using them. Get a dozen or so climbs under your belt and you’ll be good enough setting them that you will rarely have one move. On the few occasions they do move by then you will trust them and not freak out.
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I understand the reason Jim Stepp designed them with 3 points of contact, and the analogy your trying to show. But they were designed with the intent of weight/foot pressure mainly centered. Not for someones entire 250-300 lbs. sent forcibly to one supporting leg in a kick out or slip/fall situation of lower step. There's been cases of steps being bent just from camming on uneven diam trees. https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/bent-wild-edge-stepp.10336/#post-160017

U guys go with what you're comfortable with. 25-30' up,....."Cains" is not for me.
 
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Pic1 said:
I understand the reason Jim Stepp designed them with 3 points of contact, and the analogy your trying to show. But they were designed with the intent of weight/foot pressure mainly centered. Not for someones entire 250-300 lbs. sent forcibly to one supporting leg in a kick out or slip/fall situation of lower step. There's been cases of steps being bent just from camming on uneven diam trees. https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/bent-wild-edge-stepp.10336/#post-160017

U guys go with what you're comfortable with. 25-30' up,....."Cains" is not for me.
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I think Cain's WE method is functional. I'd use it. This method is no different than anything else in saddle hunting. It's not a one size fits all. Plus I feel like your tether should never be loose enough anyway to cause a dynamic load shock on the step. So in reality the weight applied to the step even in the event of a fall shouldn't be much different than stepping on it normally. Just my two cents
 
Slingpredator06 said:
I think Cain's WE method is functional. I'd use it. This method is no different than anything else in saddle hunting. It's not a one size fits all. Plus I feel like your tether should never be loose enough anyway to cause a dynamic load shock on the step. So in reality the weight applied to the step even in the event of a fall shouldn't be much different than stepping on it normally. Just my two cents
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My only concern with this method is tether to the step. Hook it to the tree above the step and Its fine. If for some reason he slipped there for sure would be several feet of slack and at adult weight that's a big dynamic force.
As an example this site shows the math for a 200lb guy falling 6ft. If math is your thing, you can change values as desired. For the rest of us let's stick to their numbers. Lol a 200lb guy falls 6ft in 0.61 seconds and generates 2400lbs of force. I think its foolish to think that shock load wont have a negative effect on the step, or a cheap carabiner that is easier to unhook.
https://www.roofingcontractor.com/articles/85252-web-exclusive-terminal-impact-force-analysis
 
kenn1320 said:
My only concern with this method is tether to the step. Hook it to the tree above the step and Its fine. If for some reason he slipped there for sure would be several feet of slack and at adult weight that's a big dynamic force.
As an example this site shows the math for a 200lb guy falling 6ft. If math is your thing, you can change values as desired. For the rest of us let's stick to their numbers. Lol a 200lb guy falls 6ft in 0.61 seconds and generates 2400lbs of force. I think its foolish to think that shock load wont have a negative effect on the step, or a cheap carabiner that is easier to unhook.
https://www.roofingcontractor.com/articles/85252-web-exclusive-terminal-impact-force-analysis
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Shock load would have an effect. I was saying if you keep your tether adjusted properly there should be minimal to no fall at all.
 
kenn1320 said:
Ive had a few of these steps loosen on initial step up due to type of tree. Method seems solid, but hooking my tether to one of these steps aint gonna happen. Curious Cane, how did the 175lb dummy drop work out?
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I use this method when I use the WE Stepps but I girth hitch around the tree and drape the tether over the highest stepp. Each time I tie on a new stepp I just loosen the girth hitch and lift it up over the newly tied stepp. That way, in the unlikey chance that the bar were to break, I'm still firmly attached to the tree.
 
boyne bowhunter said:
I use this method when I use the WE Stepps but I girth hitch around the tree and drape the tether over the highest stepp. Each time I tie on a new stepp I just loosen the girth hitch and lift it up over the newly tied stepp. That way, in the unlikey chance that the bar were to break, I'm still firmly attached to the tree.
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LOL that makes too much sense!
 
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