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Rappelling gear/setup

Got to be the 19" version, seems longer than 13.5". But pics can be deceiving. I went ahead and ordered a 24"/60cm dyneema runner which should be super strong and super light. The dyneema runners all seem to follow the standard sizes of 30cm/60cm/120cm and my 30cm one I have is too short.

13.5" is what my Amazon order says :wink:
 
Aw man y'all are killing my wallet. :cry: I ask one question and you guys throw out 3 more options. Which one do I try. . .uhmmm. . .
. . . ALL of them!! :tonguewink: Love the input, thanks a bunch!
 
Would anyone see a reason not to use a carabiner to connect to the eye of your rappelling line so you don't have to run the entire rope through the eye to tether it to the tree? Was just thinking that it would be easier to keep the 30+ foot rope organized.
 
Would anyone see a reason not to use a carabiner to connect to the eye of your rappelling line so you don't have to run the entire rope through the eye to tether it to the tree? Was just thinking that it would be easier to keep the 30+ foot rope organized.
Side loading. Usea screw link instead.
 
Have any examples?

315ca336a9b091f8bae034726774c466.jpg


I’m guessing either oval would be best.


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Have any examples?

315ca336a9b091f8bae034726774c466.jpg


I’m guessing either oval would be best.


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I’m using the Petzl version of the quick link and it works great. Just have to be mindful of the diameter of rope that’ll fit; I’m using 9mil with 1”tubular webbing around it for abrasion protection and it just barely fits.
 
I’m using the Petzl version of the quick link and it works great. Just have to be mindful of the diameter of rope that’ll fit; I’m using 9mil with 1”tubular webbing around it for abrasion protection and it just barely fits.
 
Man that's a good point. You want to use a shorter bridge but not short enough that the prusik gets stuck on the belay. That would be a mess that left you stranded halfway down


Just use longer bridge already attached for Belay device? seems that would provide better separation.
 
Have any of you switched over to the oplux for rapelling or are you sticking with the 9mm?


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Have any of you switched over to the oplux for rapelling or are you sticking with the 9mm?


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I have, in conjuction with a MadRock Safeguard. Full disclosure the Oplux is out of spec of the Safeguard so do so at your own risk and know that ahead of time.
 
I’m having a hard time grasping the atc with a autoblock. Do I keep the autoblock completely loose and it only locks up if I were to loose control? Or should I be controlling my decent/ speed with it?


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I’m having a hard time grasping the atc with a autoblock. Do I keep the autoblock completely loose and it only locks up if I were to loose control? Or should I be controlling my decent/ speed with it?


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Should be tight when you start your decent. Just squeeze the autoblock and down you go. Watch the rappelling video on Jamie Clines YouTube to see it in action.

There are options for the friction hitch but the autoblock (sometimes called French Prusik) woks the best for this. If you wanted to try a hitch above your ATC the VT Prusik is an option.

*at ground level you need to ensure your bridge length and attachment to your friction hitch allow for enough clearance on rappel. You don’t want your hitch to get caught in the ATC.

Pictured is roughly 7 inches of separation and that’s as close as they ever get. Increasing the bridge length widens the gap.

f70f9b232197b3e2147b3f0bb2733998.jpg



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Last edited:
I have, in conjuction with a MadRock Safeguard. Full disclosure the Oplux is out of spec of the Safeguard so do so at your own risk and know that ahead of time.


Do you use an autoblock? This is the setup that I was thinking about doing.
If you back it up with an autoblock, it should be safe I would think.
Trying to talk myself into it.

Did you swap out your lineman’s belt and tether with oplux as well?


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Do you use an autoblock? This is the setup that I was thinking about doing.
If you back it up with an autoblock, it should be safe I would think.
Trying to talk myself into it.

Did you swap out your lineman’s belt and tether with oplux as well?


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Yes, I use the short Beal Jammy for an autoblock. I have a piece of Oplux (I bought 36') that my Safeguard stays on, it also has a small scew link on the loop. I also have another piece of Oplux (I bought 10' or 12' for that) that has a piece of Sterling TRC tied in a Distel. These are the only two ropes I need. I start my climb with the shorter peice, if I need to go around a limb a pull out the long rope, not all of it, to get around the limb. That's where the screw link comes in play. The long rappel piece is in a pouch on my saddle so I only have to pull out a few feet to go around the limb. With the screw link I don't have to feed the entire length back through the loop. So I get around the limb and rehook up my short piece and put the long section back in the pouch. Works great, I only need those two ropes and 3 biners ( one on the tether, one on the rappel/safeguard rope, and one for the autoblock). It's really a simple setup.
 
Should be tight when you start your decent. Just squeeze the autoblock and down you go. Watch the rappelling video on Jamie Clines YouTube to see it in action.

There are options for the friction hitch but the autoblock (sometimes called French Prusik) woks the best for this. If you wanted to try a hitch above your ATC the VT Prusik is an option.

*at ground level you need to ensure your bridge length and attachment to your friction hitch allow for enough clearance on rappel. You don’t want your hitch to get caught in the ATC.

Pictured is roughly 7 inches of separation and that’s as close as they ever get. Increasing the bridge length widens the gap.

f70f9b232197b3e2147b3f0bb2733998.jpg



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I ordered a HollowBlock, will it stop me as a French Prusik/ autoblock if I let go of it? As in removing a stick, pass out...etc?


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I ordered a HollowBlock, will it stop me as a French Prusik/ autoblock if I let go of it? As in removing a stick, pass out...etc?


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That is the hollowblock in the picture of post #95. That is a prescribed use for the hollowblock and from there it is up to you to set it up properly so it grabs when your weight is on it. That means properly making and dressing the french prusik.
 
That is the hollowblock in the picture of post #95. That is a prescribed use for the hollowblock and from there it is up to you to set it up properly so it grabs when your weight is on it. That means properly making and dressing the french prusik.

I understand that and know that’s what it is. I’m asking if it’s a instant stop like a conventional Prusik or is it merely just creating friction for slowing you.


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