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Ropeman Safety

You could probably open up a similar can of worms with a prusik knot or similar knot, because they can also fail, they can slip, any slack and they don't hold, too much slack and they won't catch and they can burn through themselves and even the main rope.

I'm no expert but if we're gonna play the what if game we should include both sides of the discussion.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106721297/does-a-prusik-catch-a-quick-fall

50% failure rate, ofc much bigger falls

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donnieballgame said:
You could probably open up a similar can of worms with a prusik knot or similar knot, because they can also fail, they can slip, any slack and they don't hold, too much slack and they won't catch and they can burn through themselves and even the main rope.

I'm no expert but if we're gonna play the what if game we should include both sides of the discussion.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106721297/does-a-prusik-catch-a-quick-fall

50% failure rate, ofc much bigger falls

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Most eye to eye friction cords are heat resistant, Mines rated for over 800°, My main rope is rated to 480° and would melt waaaay before my friction hitch. My 8mm bee line hitch cord is stronger then my 11mm htp rope. My hitch cord starts to slip around 7-8kn on my 11mm rope. You also have to take into account for how many people use friction hitches compared to ropemans. Probably 1000 to 1 if not more. Ropemans under general use for what we do shouldnt be a issue as long as people take their time and pay attention to what their doing.

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Heres the hitch cord i use, even after chopping it with a axe it still held to 19kn.

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donnieballgame said:
Wow, now that is really cool! Crazy long walk in the middle there, I almost lost interest, lol.
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The guy doing the testing is nick bonner from treestuff.com. he has a lot of cool videos on YouTube.

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I am by far not an expert in any if this. But just about anything is safer than the way most hunt from a cheap Chinese made tree stand with no safety harness.

At some point in some trees there has to be a risk of the tree itself failing. I've seen stands up in barkless long dead trees.

I try to be as safe as I can but there is risk just walking through the woods. How many people check for dead limbs or trees located by their sites? I feel most on this site are checking their equipment regularly for safety concerns.
 
Root said:
I am by far not an expert in any if this. But just about anything is safer than the way most hunt from a cheap Chinese made tree stand with no safety harness.

At some point in some trees there has to be a risk of the tree itself failing. I've seen stands up in barkless long dead trees.

I try to be as safe as I can but there is risk just walking through the woods. How many people check for dead limbs or trees located by their sites? I feel most on this site are checking their equipment regularly for safety concerns.
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I was just about to say that...
a ropeman on 11m climbing grade rope, with a high tensile strength nylon webbing wrapped around my waist (sewn in waist band), all held together by 24Kn+ rated carabiners.........

Are MUCH safer than than the 2 2X6’s and a piece of plywood I grew up hunting out of. We literally nailed 2X4s to the tree trunk to climb.

I get that we need to be safety minded, but I think sometimes it is possible to go overboard. We are using highly refined equipment, under very short possible fall distances. I feel we are one of the safer ways to hunt that there is.


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Root you're definitely right. However. I think it's important to at least talk about this stuff so people can have the right info and make choices that make sense.

I'd never hunt from what John e uses, but he's not wrong or reckless for sharing his methods.

Use what you want but make sure you know the risks and use what's acceptable to you.

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And it is just fun to try different things and buy more equipment. And when your wife complains about it you can just play the safety card.

I did order the stuff to try out the bee line and micro pulley. I want to see what The Tracker is all about.

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redsquirrel said:
What do you think about the kong duck? The tooth design is very similar to the ropeman 1, but the biner has a separate hole that it goes through. In theory the duck should have similar problems to the ropeman 1 but I've never heard anything.
kong-duck-seilklemme_3.jpg
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Just FYI

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Lol, I'm gonna keep using the ropeman and will try not to have any slack in it. The only time I do right now is when I'm using the XOP hand climber and I have to move my rope up.

Not buying any more crap this year!

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Nolehoe said:
Just FYI

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Excellent information, thank you. I can't believe I missed that. I am starting to back it up with a blake's hitch so I can continue using it as I do.
 
TheTracker said:
Most eye to eye friction cords are heat resistant, Mines rated for over 800°, My main rope is rated to 480° and would melt waaaay before my friction hitch. My 8mm bee line hitch cord is stronger then my 11mm htp rope. My hitch cord starts to slip around 7-8kn on my 11mm rope. You also have to take into account for how many people use friction hitches compared to ropemans. Probably 1000 to 1 if not more. Ropemans under general use for what we do shouldnt be a issue as long as people take their time and pay attention to what their doing.

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Click to expand...

What do you do with the ends when you cut it? I go some a while back and didn’t think about not being able to melt the ends. I just have mine taped, should I put some super glue or something on the ends also? Also I’ve been using a blakes hitch and it seems to work for me, any reason I should try a different friction hitch?
 
BenG said:
What do you do with the ends when you cut it? I go some a while back and didn’t think about not being able to melt the ends. I just have mine taped, should I put some super glue or something on the ends also? Also I’ve been using a blakes hitch and it seems to work for me, any reason I should try a different friction hitch?
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Ends of the hitch cord? For bee line i do this.
After im done i coat the ends in maxijacket.

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