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Super light experimental DIY LWCG stick

Murph4028 said:
Awesome thanks! Ill probably get some. I always get mine from online metals and they never have it.
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I’ve never ordered from this place but was looking last night....I also don’t know how different 6061 and 6063 are but I figure it should be good.


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I had one of my 1/16 wall 3/4 at Saddleplooza last year. Several guys climbed it. They bend. With the lone wolf step the bolt broke through the wall


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GBlevins92 said:
I’ve never ordered from this place but was looking last night....I also don’t know how different 6061 and 6063 are but I figure it should be good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTEno. 6063 has only half the strength of 6061.
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ImThere said:
Don’t buy 6063


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After some googling I realized that’s the cheap junk like at Lowe’s......so did you find 6061 in 3/4” 1/8” wall?


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@ImThere and I have been working on this off and on this year.
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With some rubber grommets I think the side stack mechanism to lock them together can be duplicated


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So the stick worked but as expected it does flex and I don't feel comfortable with it. I'll keep messing with all these different DIY sticks ive made and if I feel like I wanna go with this type of stick I'll just transfer all the hardware to a 1/8" tube. So far the first stick I built is the winner for me and hard to beat. Next I'm going to explore methods with cranford rope steps.
 
They look pretty slick. All the talk about side stacking sticks got me looking at a set of lone wolfs I’ve had sitting around.

I’m getting ready to cut them down to the 2 step minis. I was brainstorming on how to create the space to allow the standoffs to spin instead of the extra but on the back.

What if you took the nut off of the backside of the step stop bolt and used a threaded insert instead and cut the bolt flush? I’m thinking you’d need to drill the hole a little bigger and then the insert would sit flush with the stick and allow the standoff to rotate freely.

Anybody know what size the bolt/thread pitch is on the Lone wolfs?


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Murph4028 said:
My train of thought is that 22" is perfect for a double step but may get a little hairy with a single step. I figured that's why the lone wolf minis are only 17". So This ones a little longer. Im not sure though. Ive never owned a single step stick before. I just started building man lol. Tomorrow Ill definitely know where I stand with it. If I can shed the middle step and save 2.5 ounces that's cool. It was kind of a just for fun and maybe use it type build. And I know some people are wondering if 3/4 tubing has the strength to hold up as a stick so I thought Id find out. Not sure if this will actually get used or not yet at this point because I really like my other stick that I built a couple weeks ago. But well see.
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I think the minis are 17 in because the regulars are 17 in and they have standardized on that. When I climb with single step sticks for sure I am spacing them more like 24-28. Double steps benefit most climbing awkward trees and making hanging the next stick more comfy.
 
tim_dawg22 said:
They look pretty slick. All the talk about side stacking sticks got me looking at a set of lone wolfs I’ve had sitting around.

I’m getting ready to cut them down to the 2 step minis. I was brainstorming on how to create the space to allow the standoffs to spin instead of the extra but on the back.

What if you took the nut off of the backside of the step stop bolt and used a threaded insert instead and cut the bolt flush? I’m thinking you’d need to drill the hole a little bigger and then the insert would sit flush with the stick and allow the standoff to rotate freely.

Anybody know what size the bolt/thread pitch is on the Lone wolfs?


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Click to expand...

A threaded insert is what I had in mind as well.


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GBlevins92 said:
A threaded insert is what I had in mind as well.


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Click to expand...
tim_dawg22 said:
They look pretty slick. All the talk about side stacking sticks got me looking at a set of lone wolfs I’ve had sitting around.

I’m getting ready to cut them down to the 2 step minis. I was brainstorming on how to create the space to allow the standoffs to spin instead of the extra but on the back.

What if you took the nut off of the backside of the step stop bolt and used a threaded insert instead and cut the bolt flush? I’m thinking you’d need to drill the hole a little bigger and then the insert would sit flush with the stick and allow the standoff to rotate freely.

Anybody know what size the bolt/thread pitch is on the Lone wolfs?


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Click to expand...
You guys are prolly right. Im sure that would be a better option. Glad I didn't put too much time into this one because I don't think Im really a fan of the single step style stick. On to the next project.....
 
mattsteg said:
I think the minis are 17 in because the regulars are 17 in and they have standardized on that. When I climb with single step sticks for sure I am spacing them more like 24-28. Double steps benefit most climbing awkward trees and making hanging the next stick more comfy.
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I don't doubt it. Ive never used a single step stick prior to this and just made assumptions.
 
ImThere said:
30PCs 1/4"-20 Stainless Steel Rivet Nuts Flat Head Insert Nutsert 1/4-20UNC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GQLQZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H-3oCbGCC73QV


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Question is will that be strong enough to bolt the step with out going through the back of the tubing......if not I wonder if you could put two inserts and use two bolts to secure a aluminum block like on the xop steps. I know this would add a little weight though.


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I’m eyeballing some threaded aluminum bungs for an option to level my Klemz platform platform but you’d need access to a welder. I wouldn’t trust those river style ones not strong enough imo.
 
GBlevins92 said:
Question is will that be strong enough to bolt the step with out going through the back of the tubing......if not I wonder if you could put two inserts and use two bolts to secure a aluminum block like on the xop steps. I know this would add a little weight though.


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Not sure. I think I’m gonna order these and give them a try. I have the rivet tool that can set riv nuts so that should keep it pretty solid I think.


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