Xop platform noise

[IkemanTX]

I think I will change the washers after season. I'm thinking 3 washers on each side.

Nylon/steel/nylon

That way there is no metal to metal contact between the seat and pillar, and the nylon washers can rotate against the smooth steel washer.


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[bowhunter15]

Mine gets creaky occasionally. Usually it's totally fine for the first couple hours of the morning and then gets squeaky if I shift my weight side to side. I already have stealth strips, nylon washers, and bowstring wax. There's still metal on metal contact between the bolt and the holes in the tube though. I'll try waxing or putting graphite on the bolt to see if it helps. It's tough to check because sometimes it's fine so the only way to test is trying it out for a few hours.

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[DIYSaddler]

Mine gets creaky occasionally. Usually it's totally fine for the first couple hours of the morning and then gets squeaky if I shift my weight side to side. I already have stealth strips, nylon washers, and bowstring wax. There's still metal on metal contact between the bolt and the holes in the tube though. I'll try waxing or putting graphite on the bolt to see if it helps. It's tough to check because sometimes it's fine so the only way to test is trying it out for a few hours.

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Could you tool dip the bolt or but a piece of small diameter intertube around it.

 

[bowhunter15]

Could you tool dip the bolt or but a piece of small diameter intertube around it.

The fit is too close. Wax is probably the most I'd have space for, and some of that would probably scrape off while inserting the bolt.

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[DIYSaddler]

The fit is too close. Wax is probably the most I'd have space for, and some of that would probably scrape off while inserting the bolt.

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Grease or silicon lube?

 

[DaveT1963]

yes I was referring to the actual cast "ears" on the seat platform. I file them down quite a bit to get a more level attachment and then use washers and nylon washers to make it all tight. It is important to fill your tube with bondo so it does not bend/collapse at the bolt junction point and also where the seat adjustment bolt contacts the aluminum tubing.

 

[IkemanTX]

yes I was referring to the actual cast "ears" on the seat platform. I file them down quite a bit to get a more level attachment and then use washers and nylon washers to make it all tight. It is important to fill your tube with bondo so it does not bend/collapse at the bolt junction point and also where the seat adjustment bolt contacts the aluminum tubing.

My riser is a solid bar of aluminum (as opposed to the tubing) and I am still having issues. One thing I have noticed is that the leveling screw is a little loose in the seat, which allows it to wiggle side to side a bit.
Also, it has dug out quite the hole in the bar where the screw head rests. I think I will have to JB weld a small steel plate on the contact point to avoid that.


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[kenn1320]

yes I was referring to the actual cast "ears" on the seat platform. I file them down quite a bit to get a more level attachment and then use washers and nylon washers to make it all tight. It is important to fill your tube with bondo so it does not bend/collapse at the bolt junction point and also where the seat adjustment bolt contacts the aluminum tubing.

Before you file those flat, note the washers that come with the seat are tapered to match that angle on the seat caused by draft(casting byproduct). You want the thicker portion of that washer towards the top. If you already filed them flat, then you will want to buy flat washers.

 

[DaveT1963]

Before you file those flat, note the washers that come with the seat are tapered to match that angle on the seat caused by draft(casting byproduct). You want the thicker portion of that washer towards the top. If you already filed them flat, then you will want to buy flat washers.

file them flat, get a grade eight bolt and washers..... let's not make this hard

 

[kenn1320]

file them flat, get a grade eight bolt and washers..... let's not make this hard

That's funny. I thought filing it and upgrading washers was a great way to make it hard. No reason to fix a problem that doesn't exist if you put the parts together as intended.

 

[DaveT1963]

That's funny. I thought filing it and upgrading washers was a great way to make it hard. No reason to fix a problem that doesn't exist if you put the parts together as intended.

As intended? Dont think the seat was ever intended to be used as a platform? Filing it and cleaning it up is working well for me and I'm not having a noise issue.

 

[IkemanTX]

I think we are in one of those "more than one way to skin a cat" kind of situations.


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[kenn1320]

As intended? Dont think the seat was ever intended to be used as a platform? Filing it and cleaning it up is working well for me and I'm not having a noise issue.

The seat was designed to fold up/down and hold weight. That is how we are using it. To cut cost it was cheaper to source a tapered washer than to machine the seat ears flat. If you install the washer in the orientation they were designed to work, you wont have issues.

I think we are in one of those "more than one way to skin a cat" kind of situations.


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Yes Ike there are many ways to skin a cat, I'm letting people know if they pay attention to details and understand how things work, they dont have to get out the file and spend money on new washers.

 

[DaveT1963]

i think there is a difference between sitting on a seat and standing and leaning side to side on it... but i could be wrong?

For the rest, try both methods and see which works for you. I fill my tubes and get everything squared and not having the noise issue. A tapered washer, IMHO, is asking for noise as they rotate.