And for those who just think a heavier arrow is the ticket. IT ISN'T! Get some extreme foc going. That's were you will see your arrows fly really good especially with fixed broadheads. For instance I got 125 of brass insert inside of a 28.5" victory 350 arrow with a 200 grain vandemon single bevel broadhead. Flight is unbelievable. But if I remove the 125 insert things get wonky. Flight gets a little erratic. Get as much weight up front as you can. Try it before any negative comments on this. Because if you actually try this, you'll see it's true.
Were did u get the 200 grain inserts? Im interestedI kept the lighted nock but ditched the vanes for feathers. 200gr insert with 125 broadhead for this season. My 200gr field points fly the best but I'm not going to buy new broadheads till after this hunting season
Im about a big dinner bigger than you, shooting 26/70. Im shooting GT hunter XT cut at 26 carbon to carbon with 50gr inserts, 100gr BH's, a reflective wrap, blazer vanes and lighted nocks. Runs me 420gr and have performed great. I am testing now with an extra 50gr in fact weights and 125gr heads and really like it so far.I've been geeking out on reading about arrow set ups so I'm glad I found this thread. I went inexpensive and currently shooting a Beman Bowhunter, 340 spine. It's currently at 400 gr total, cut at 27", with a 100 gr tip and 3" feathers. FOC is roughly 10%, if you're into that. Not sure what my kind of FPS my bow is shooting but am getting that chrono'd tonight. I'm a little dude so my bow is at 60 lbs with a 25.5" draw length. I think my arrow is underweight to be shooting a mechanical so I've been looking at Stingers and thinking about uping the tip weight and adding a lighted nock. Any thoughts or recommendations are welcome.
Better get that foc and total weight on up there. Add some 100 grain brass inserts and that should take you to the promise land. As a wise man once said "better have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it"I've been geeking out on reading about arrow set ups so I'm glad I found this thread. I went inexpensive and currently shooting a Beman Bowhunter, 340 spine. It's currently at 400 gr total, cut at 27", with a 100 gr tip and 3" feathers. FOC is roughly 10%, if you're into that. Not sure what my kind of FPS my bow is shooting but am getting that chrono'd tonight. I'm a little dude so my bow is at 60 lbs with a 25.5" draw length. I think my arrow is underweight to be shooting a mechanical so I've been looking at Stingers and thinking about uping the tip weight and adding a lighted nock. Any thoughts or recommendations are welcome.
Good point to bring up the broadhead length, that is something I forget to consider. Thanks.Everytime you go up in point weight, your arrow spine gets weaker......well, unless you go to a heavy insert that's maybe 1/2" longer than the previous lighter one.....then it may be a wash. Same with broadhead or point length.....how far forward the point weight is changes the spine even more.
Frontloading only works up to a point. To increase overall arrow weight you may need to stuff the arrow with something such as poly rope, string trimmer string, etc.
Lighted nocks change dynamic spine but it shouldn't be enough to affect arrow integrity, penetration or accuracy.....if it does, you are really close to the limits of the arrow spine to control flight.. You can always foot the nock and insert end of a carbon with a small piece of aluminum shaft. Definitely worth it with heavy, hard hitting setups.
This is for all of the "I'm shooting bullet holes at 100 yards with my set up, shooting 400 grain arrows".
You and a friend get into a truck, take a marble and get up to 100 mph and throw the marble at a steel plate or something. Note the damage. Then go again driving 50 mph and throw a bowling ball out. See which one had more energy.
Guys and gals. Deer or whatever your shooting is animals. There isn't a guarantee on a perfect shot. So take initiatives to get the most bang for your bow. Yea, we've all killed deer with the mechanicals and arrows at 400 grain. But the high percentage of deer animals lost are with those shooting those. Swallow some pride and try it. Heck, if you don't like it, go back to you're kiddy arrows. Best luck to all
You need to do your own testing with stuff. But overall this is the most accurate and dependable way to go. Keep the arrow light in the back and a light arrow if possible. Load the front up as high as you can. Here is why. Im a engineer and develope stuff all the time, but this is tried and true by physics. A heavy arrow with modest broadhead will not have the front momentum needed to "pull"the arrow down the range. Your vanes or whatever you use in the back help steer the back straight, but if the rear of the arrow is heavy it has to work harder to get it back in line. Were a light arrow, the vanes doesn't have to work as hard. Now ,YES! Arrows spine is important, but let me say one thing first. No matter who says what, YOU CAN'T OVER SPINE A ARROW (in a compound) ! It's physically impossible. If the bow is tuned properly, the arrow goes straight off the launcher(rest), the least flex you have the more energy stored and accuracy. Now with a recurve, it's different because the arrow must flex around the riser. Now back to the heavy foc! Get the weight up front as high as you can go without "falling off the table". The more weight up front, the easier it is for the arrow to stay on course because the forward momentum created by the drag of the heavier broadhead will help drag the arrow behind. Maybe this helped, I know a lot will argue, but I don't give a rip. I can take the horse to the watering hole, but i can't make it drink.Good point to bring up the broadhead length, that is something I forget to consider. Thanks.
I'm curious about stuffing the arrow to add weight. I've seen/read someone mention this before but never went into detail. Do you have anything I can read on this by any chance?
I'm not overly concerned with FOC. I've read a lot and listened to podcasts on it and it seems to be a trendy thing right now. I understand there are benefits and draw backs, as with anything else. I still plan on buying some heavier practice tips to play with it though.
What's your experience with windy conditions and a heavy FOC?You need to do your own testing with stuff. But overall this is the most accurate and dependable way to go. Keep the arrow light in the back and a light arrow if possible. Load the front up as high as you can. Here is why. Im a engineer and develope stuff all the time, but this is tried and true by physics. A heavy arrow with modest broadhead will not have the front momentum needed to "pull"the arrow down the range. Your vanes or whatever you use in the back help steer the back straight, but if the rear of the arrow is heavy it has to work harder to get it back in line. Were a light arrow, the vanes doesn't have to work as hard. Now ,YES! Arrows spine is important, but let me say one thing first. No matter who says what, YOU CAN'T OVER SPINE A ARROW (in a compound) ! It's physically impossible. If the bow is tuned properly, the arrow goes straight off the launcher(rest), the least flex you have the more energy stored and accuracy. Now with a recurve, it's different because the arrow must flex around the riser. Now back to the heavy foc! Get the weight up front as high as you can go without "falling off the table". The more weight up front, the easier it is for the arrow to stay on course because the forward momentum created by the drag of the heavier broadhead will help drag the arrow behind. Maybe this helped, I know a lot will argue, but I don't give a rip. I can take the horse to the watering hole, but i can't make it drink.
It makes a world of difference! Great on windy daysWhat's your experience with windy conditions and a heavy FOC?