Easiest climbing methods for old guys

[bj139]

If it's binding up, try lengthening it a bit at a time till it stops binding. If it continues binding may have to switch hitches, adjust how many wraps it has, or a larger diameter hitch cord that doesn't dig into the climb line as much.

I've considered getting the newer HHX but haven't pulled the trigger one on yet https://climbing-innovations.myshopify.com/products/hitch-hiker-x-without-swivaeye

I am just using a five wrap hitch which essentially pulls down into a Valdotain Trese. If I sit for a few minutes I have slight trouble getting it started but once it does it works fine. Fingertips get a bit hot if I'm not careful. It works fine and like I said several of the tree arborists mention the same thing with friction hitches. They can vary from day to day or rope to rope or same rope with more wear. That is just their nature. They will never be as consistent as a metal device. That is why people use the Ropeman so much in spite of the additional weight.
Edit: I probably should have bought the HHx but I was just wanting to try it without spending a fortune. I did buy a shackle for the HH2 which works great. I will post a picture. It is wide but provides plenty of clearance for the Hitchhiker holster which I recommend for tending.

Amazon.com

 

[brydan]

Having worked as a professional Arborist myself I would concor .

 

[cedar paul]

A 5 wrap Michocan which is essentially a Blake's hitch with eyes has become my hitch of choice and works sweet on my 24 strand ropes Rocket Line, Poison Ivy and Tachyon to name a few. When tied right it tends nice and grips readily with minimal sitback. I use a secondary ATC when descending a long way so I can compress the hitch and extend its life as well as get a nicer ride coming down. Richard makes some neat stuff and his version of the Hitchhiker is pretty sweet.

 

[bj139]

A 5 wrap Michocan which is essentially a Blake's hitch with eyes has become my hitch of choice and works sweet on my 24 strand ropes Rocket Line, Poison Ivy and Tachyon to name a few. When tied right it tends nice and grips readily with minimal sitback. I use a secondary ATC when descending a long way so I can compress the hitch and extend its life as well as get a nicer ride coming down. Richard makes some neat stuff and his version of the Hitchhiker is pretty sweet.

I have been watching Richard Mumfords videos. He has a lot of great advice. I tried many hitches like Distel, Innovtion hitch, Scwabisch but have not found anything better than a simple 5 to 7 wrap hitch with a simple modification I have not seen elsewhere. After wrapping up, I take the end and feed it behind the left side cord starting point and then through the right side dogbone. I want to try the Michocan as you suggest as well as the other hitch Richard recommends, I can't remember the name now, where you start wrapping clockwise down then over the standing end and back around counterclockwise 5 times. That may actually be a Michocan, I will have to study it. I bought the Hitchhiker2 which is the steel sided version for almost $90 less than the HHx. This gear is too heavy for hunting use when you have people arguing about saving an ounce. RADS is simpler and lighter. With the foot ascender I can imagine stepping into a mudhole and getting it gunked up.

 

[cedar paul]

The art of correctly tying the Michocan is that the end(eyes) need to be the same length after taking slack out of your hitch coils. I walk to my setups(rope preset in tree) put on foot ascender and Rope runner then go up tree so mud is not an issue. I used a combination of bolts with the Ridgerunner and a set 0f 3 W.E. steps for platforms for the other 2 presets. My platforms are only probably 20-22' high so I can be up there pretty quick and use the end of my climbing rope to pull up bow . I have eliminated having to use a seperate pull up line( but I still carry one) and a tree tether adjuster as I have the Rope runner in place and ready to go.

 

[brydan]

The thing that's kept me from springing for a proper multicender like a Roperunner is the need to use larger diameter ropes. I do so little tree work these days it's hard to justify the cost for 20' hunting climbs. That has me working on a little Rope Wrench rig here that I'm setting up for 9mm rope. If it doesn't work out then I'll probably spring for an HHX because of it's versatility (SRT, DdRT, smaller ropes, etc)

 

[bj139]

These would be on opposite ends of my recreational climbing line, DRT on left and SRT on right. I have a separate 9mm rope and ascender and descender for hunting climbing by RADS.

 

[Labonte.r]

I would think strap on steps would be pretty easy for an older gent. They aren’t the fastest but your ability to set to whatever distance your comfortable stepping, their compactness and weigh while walking in all add up. At first I was very skeptical of them until I made half dozen or so climbs with them. They are a tad slower than sticks but I can literally fit 10-12 in a small fanny pack.

 

[mattsteg]

I would think strap on steps would be pretty easy for an older gent. They aren’t the fastest but your ability to set to whatever distance your comfortable stepping, their compactness and weigh while walking in all add up. At first I was very skeptical of them until I made half dozen or so climbs with them. They are a tad slower than sticks but I can literally fit 10-12 in a small fanny pack.

Which steps do you use? Some are great, others frustrating. I'm currently liking squirrelsteps on ocb strap a lot. The ocb is quick on/off the tree, gives a rock solid mount, and the whole package is compact and lightweight. Something like cranfords are a lot more fiddly.

And you're only handling small, easily manipulated objects that aren't a clang risk.

Bolts are nice as well. Less to haul, slower up, but faster down and faster on repeat sits.

 

[Labonte.r]

Which steps do you use? Some are great, others frustrating. I'm currently liking squirrelsteps on ocb strap a lot. The ocb is quick on/off the tree, gives a rock solid mount, and the whole package is compact and lightweight. Something like cranfords are a lot more fiddly.

And you're only handling small, easily manipulated objects that aren't a clang risk.

Bolts are nice as well. Less to haul, slower up, but faster down and faster on repeat sits.

Sorry should have specified I have cpl squirrels with a dozen more on the way I’ve also got a bunch of strap on api skyhooks which started me down this step road. They are the two best steps IMO. I’ve also got bolts as well my only issue with those is I hunt a lot of public which they wouldn’t be allowed. For presets bolts are the best IMO but other than that i give the nod to steps for packability and weight, third would be sticks.

 

[Labonte.r]

I also forgot to mention that although I prefer the ocb for a ROS I’m really liking the cam buckle for my climbing steps. I’ve got some of the original cam straps from the api skyhook and my opinion a lot easier to set, quieter, and lighter than the ocb. They are a little looser but found that not an issue for me as I’m only on it for few seconds while I set next step. Once I strap step I’ll pull down to set it and plenty sturdy to ascend. I’m thinking about sourcing out someone like DAnO to reproduce the api cam strap for me so I can have some extras.

 

[mattsteg]

Sorry should have specified I have cpl squirrels with a dozen more on the way I’ve also got a bunch of strap on api skyhooks which started me down this step road. They are the two best steps IMO. I’ve also got bolts as well my only issue with those is I hunt a lot of public which they wouldn’t be allowed. For presets bolts are the best IMO but other than that i give the nod to steps for packability and weight, third would be sticks.

Awesome. Just wanted to point that out as there are a lot of less-good steps out there. The profile of the step and strap design both matter a lot for getting that rock solid attachment quickly.

And for those who are new to individual steps - when strapping on steps (or bolts) - don't go full-straddle on the tree. Keep them in more of a "v" from left/right. You want that for maximum comfort and balance. Don't straddle the tree.

 

[mattsteg]

I also forgot to mention that although I prefer the ocb for a ROS I’m really liking the cam buckle for my climbing steps. I’ve got some of the original cam straps from the api skyhook and my opinion a lot easier to set, quieter, and lighter than the ocb. They are a little looser but found that not an issue for me as I’m only on it for few seconds while I set next step. Once I strap step I’ll pull down to set it and plenty sturdy to ascend. I’m thinking about sourcing out someone like DAnO to reproduce the api cam strap for me so I can have some extras.

Interesting. The ocb is a tad heavy maybe, but I find it quick/easy, super easy to get into a routine, and easy to silence. Grab buckle in one hand, hook in the other, step on appropriate hand. Give the tree a hug and connect the buckle. Way tighter than needed, easy to release, and easy to just get into a nice smooth rhythm with zero effort or extra motion to get the step super secure.

 

[Labonte.r]

Agree I’m not saying they are bad by any means just imo overkill. I’m personally faster and less clumsy with the cam buckle. I wouldn’t do without the ocb on the ros tho it’s money. I’ll try to get a pic up tonight of the difference in size and weight.

 

[Labonte.r]

Here are pics as promised

 

[TNSTAAFL]

Thanks for posting those pics. Super helpful. There does appear to be a substantial difference in weight and bulk between the two strap styles. The question is... will @DanO come through once again and find a source for these straps? He might sell a few more Squirrel Steps if so. I know a guy who wouldn't take much convincing to put an order in.

 

[bj139]

These would be on opposite ends of my recreational climbing line, DRT on left and SRT on right. I have a separate 9mm rope and ascender and descender for hunting climbing by RADS.

I was just out in the backyard trying rope walking on my 8.5mm dynamic line. The line had plenty of stretch so it would be good in a fall but it made climbing difficult. The shackle came unscrewed after I descended which was a close call. I suppose if it happened in the air I could have hung onto the HH2 body and released the friction hitch with one hand. I will Loctite it and wrap a wire through the hole. I tried the Michocan hitch and it worked well and did not bind. The rope was flattened by the HH2 because of the pinching action. The system seems designed to use 11mm or greater static rope and does not work well with the thinner, lighter ropes. With the foot ascender, knee ascender and chest strap needed for tending and the HH2 itself as well as with the need to use bigger heavier ropes there is no weight savings. I got out my RADS gear, a Petzl hand ascender, rollclip and Madrock Lifeguard and went up a few times on the 8.5mm rope. A much more pleasant experience. For heavy tree service work the ropewalker system works well. For just going up a tree to sit for 6 to 8 hours hunting, RADS has it beat for ease of climbing and lightness of gear needed.

 

[mattsteg]

@Labonte.r How long are the straps, and how much difference in bulk is down to strap material/length vs. The ocb vs cam buckle? Do you need to thread the cam every time? It almost seems like a different stram material would be half the difference (but maybe the ocb needs the beefier strap?)

 

[DanO]

Thanks for posting those pics. Super helpful. There does appear to be a substantial difference in weight and bulk between the two strap styles. The question is... will @DanO come through once again and find a source for these straps? He might sell a few more Squirrel Steps if so. I know a guy who wouldn't take much convincing to put an order in.

That sure looks like thin webbing. There's a point with retail sales that you have to draw a line, and I'm not sure how thin I want to go with the strap. The current strap I'm using is rated at 3000#s. I do have some lighter weight cam buckles that are very similar to that style and they are rated for 1300# breaking strength / 433# safe working load, but I just didn't like them . I'll grab some thinner webbing and do some testing, no promises.

 

[bj139]

That sure looks like thin webbing. There's a point with retail sales that you have to draw a line, and I'm not sure how thin I want to go with the strap. The current strap I'm using is rated at 3000#s. I do have some lighter weight cam buckles that are very similar to that style and they are rated for 1300# breaking strength / 433# safe working load, but I just didn't like them . I'll grab some thinner webbing and do some testing, no promises.

Isn't the usual working load for climbing gear one tenth of the breaking strength? That is the criteria I have been using.