New to saddle hunting, question on clothing

[Erkman28]

Went up for my second sit Sunday evening, nice doe caught me getting into position, still fine tuning this whole set up. That being said, it was afternoon so started in mid 40’s and was able to wear my normal temp gear. I sweat quite a bit going up the tree and getting it all set up already. My question is when it’s really cold, what’s the methodology for really cold weather clothing, I have not yet needed to use fanatic bibs and jacket, but two issues I think I will have....1..sweating my ass off which does not bold well for when I finally get in place and staying warm, 2.. the stuff is so thick, already LOTS going on, maneuvering around all the gear (wild edge steps, nailer/swaider, wild edge battlement when I am surrounded with all the bulk of staying warm... how are others doing it?

I assume as I get better at it, less energy will be expended, but the fanatic gear is very insulating, and I can’t see putting it on at elevation.. enlighten me!

 

[Arkie]

Heated Vest.
It’s cut out several layers/bulk for me.
It has been well worth it.
Merino wool long sleeve and vest on the way in & up and then throw a light jacket on once I’m set. I was out yesterday. Windy and 33, and I was more than comfortable. I one-stick so I had the same issue with bulk/sweating getting set up.


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[Wyatt_burp]

Layers. Merino wool. Zip sides on my bibs.

I hike in with my bibs unzipped from my right knee to my left knee, all the way across my backside, with the front unzipped wearing either just an upper base layer or base layer with a hoodie. My jacket, vest, hats, whatever, in pockets or bunjie corded to my pack. Walk in, climb, get cool, then rezip my bibs, and put on my upper layers and hat. Same as when I used to hike to the top of the mountain with my climber, except I had worse clothing so I would wear shorts and a hoodie and carry my clothes in a backpack. Getting naked in the dark the Monday after Thanksgiving at the top of a mountain in north central PA was always a trip.

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[Erkman28]

Arkie, I wear the heated vest also, I tend to run very cold, heated insoles, heated vest, heated muff, and still have to bundle up like the Michelin man to be comfortable. I need some very cold days to work on climbing in bulk gear.

Bibs unzipped absolutely, I probably need to get completely dry before I start my climb and just do it nice and easy, the nailer/swaider make it a bit more intensive, maybe just use all 8 WE steps to getup the tree for less sweaty climb

 

[Empostarr]

I'm new to it too, from Michigan. I did two 10 to 30 degree sits in my full winter gear, and carrying my clothes, saddle, platform, and climbing method, it was just too much. I run hot, so I walked in wearing my bibs unzipped, and my 2 stage winter coat packed in, and I was sore and overheated even at a slow pace using a backpacking pack. Climbing sucked too.

I hunted the following weekend, 25 degrees, packing in just my winter gear and hunted from the ground. Barely felt my pack, walked out in long johns, a thermal shirt, and a hoody. I was able to cool off and add layers as needed to stay warm, and got my first deer on new years day.

Unless I find a game changing pack that can handle everything better, I'm sticking to the ground when the temps call for my winter clothes.

 

[Doofy]

Walk in wearing just your baselayers. I couldnt imagine wearing bibs for anything more than a 100 yard walk.

Gotta be cool and dry at your tree and then get dressed and setup. For the colder months it might be worth using multiple sticks opposed to other methods that may require a greater deal of energy and agility.

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[raisins]

You have to find a way tolerable to you to walk in cold and then dress at the tree or preferably in the tree.

I don't want to deal with heated clothing, so my solution is:

1. buy tons of Hot Hands adhesive body warmers and super warmers when wally world has a sale and use them liberally (like 4 on your torso on base layer when really cold, key location is high kidneys where you can pull in arms and get turbo heat).
2. buy high quality down jacket, down vest, and down insulating pants and compress all that down along with a windproof shirt inside a compression stuff sack that fits inside my 32 liter hunting pack

 

[Coathanger15]

Lots of good advise in this thread. Wearing a first layer upper of a moisturizer wicking under armour has really helped me cool off and dry off fast in those situations. If I have to get, or unexpected get sweaty for whatever reason, I strip down to that last layer until I get cold then start bundling up again.

 

[boyne bowhunter]

I hunt in the northern 1/3 of Michigan's lower peninsula. I do hike in (typically 1/2 to 3/4 mile) with all my lower half layers on, typically wool bibs, camo bibs and my saddle.

On my upper body though I typically only wear a long sleeve T over my wicking midweight thermal shirt (if its really cold I'll add a light sweatshirt). No insulated hat, no gloves. In fact if I start to warm up I'll push up my sleeves and take the ball cap off too. I let my natural radiators help keep me cool and I make a concentrated effort to move slow enough not to overheat (at my age that's naturally becoming easier ).

I climb dressed the same way and add my upper layers once I'm up in the tree. If I do get a bit sweaty on the walk in I will simply remove my cotton long sleeve T before putting my upper layers on. Since it absorbs most of the moisture through the wicking layer I'm removing 90% of that sweaty moisture simply by taking off the t-shirt. It adds almost no insulation value anyway so I don't miss it.

 

[KYHunter]

I’m hot natured and often have over a mile hike in. If it’s above 20 degrees then I’m walking in with just my thermal tights and no shirt. Sometimes I’m just in my boxers.
When I get to the tree I drop my pack and get things ready for the climb. This gives me a minute or two to cool down. I then throw on my merino layers. Then I climb. Some people on here are fanatics about speed climbing. The slower you go the less you’ll get overheated and sweaty. When I’m all setup I’ll add my puffy layers and outer layers on quickly to retain the heat I’ve built up.
The trick for me is to do it all slowly. Cause I can still somehow work up a sweat in 20 degrees and shirtless

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I hunt in the northern 1/3 of Michigan's lower peninsula. I do hike in (typically 1/2 to 3/4 mile) with all my lower half layers on, typically wool bibs, camo bibs and my saddle.

On my upper body though I typically only wear a long sleeve T over my wicking midweight thermal shirt (if its really cold I'll add a light sweatshirt). No insulated hat, no gloves. In fact if I start to warm up I'll push up my sleeves and take the ball cap off too. I let my natural radiators help keep me cool and I make a concentrated effort to move slow enough not to overheat (at my age that's naturally becoming easier ).

I climb dressed the same way and add my upper layers once I'm up in the tree. If I do get a bit sweaty on the walk in I will simply remove my cotton long sleeve T before putting my upper layers on. Since it absorbs most of the moisture through the wicking layer I'm removing 90% of that sweaty moisture simply by taking off the t-shirt. It adds almost no insulation value anyway so I don't miss it.

I'm gonna disagree with wearing anything cotton. Why not wear a thin synthetic? Lots of synthetics are now made with antimicrobial properties so they will be less apt to smell. Even if you do remove a sweaty cotton layer, you still possess that bacteria factory in your stand. Moisture promotes bacteria and that increases odors. And the wet cotton basically becomes dead weight in your pack...it serves no purpose. The synthetic can still be used for insulation if needed.

Another thing that makes a world of difference for me is a hand muff with a couple Hot Hands in it.

I also own a small thermos and sometimes I will fill it with hot apple cider and take an occasional sip. It really helps take the edge off of the cold, and apple cider has deodorizing properties so it also helps minimize mouth odor.

 

[Erkman28]

Anyone find a good solution to packing fanatic bibs and jacket along with WE steps, saddle and platform. The fanatic stuff is awesome for staying warm, but does NOT compress to much of anything

 

[Plebe]

I'm gonna disagree with wearing anything cotton. Why not wear a thin synthetic? Lots of synthetics are now made with antimicrobial properties so they will be less apt to smell. Even if you do remove a sweaty cotton layer, you still possess that bacteria factory in your stand. Moisture promotes bacteria and that increases odors. And the wet cotton basically becomes dead weight in your pack...it serves no purpose. The synthetic can still be used for insulation if needed.

Another thing that makes a world of difference for me is a hand muff with a couple Hot Hands in it.

I also own a small thermos and sometimes I will fill it with hot apple cider and take an occasional sip. It really helps take the edge off of the cold, and apple cider has deodorizing properties so it also helps minimize mouth odor.

Some good points here.

When I hunt public, often I’m going in deeper than Boyne Bowhunter, so I usually hike in wearing old first lite wool base layer pants and a cotton t-shirt, and completely change at the stand no matter the temp; I bag up the damp clothes.

I’ve used a cotton t-shirt mainly because I have them, but I do think I’d be better served by a light wool or synthetic poly gene t made for hunting and will probably pick some up for this purpose.

The apple cider thing is interesting. I may fill a couple water bottles with cider, I like having the disposable bottles so I can re-purpose them when nature calls. I don’t usually snack when I hunt, so the extra calories of cider are a bonus.

Boyne Bowhunter, not sure where you are at, but there is an awesome taxidermist in Interlochen, goes bu Verne: https://m.facebook.com/pg/Spikehorn...31900421914/photos/ref=page_internal&mt_nav=0

 

[kyler1945]

Anyone find a good solution to packing fanatic bibs and jacket along with WE steps, saddle and platform. The fanatic stuff is awesome for staying warm, but does NOT compress to much of anything

pack them just like any other clothes. Clothes don’t need to be in a pack. You’ll see lots of people advocate for frame packs(myself included) for this very reason. Shove clothes in the load shelf and go. Sometimes it makes sense to have a water proof bag to put them in if you’re hiking remote in bad weather, or if you have to go through briars and hitchhikers.

strapping 20-30lbs of clothes to the front of a cheap ill fitting backpack will be miserable to carry.

as for sweating, the above advice is sound. You should be very cold when you leave access. Like “what the hell am I doing I can put more clothes on?!” Cold. Once you start walking and get your heart rate elevated and muscles engorged, you’ll start generating serious body heat. If you’re in warm clothes your body will think it’s time to start sweating.

you’ve got to keep your temperature down when walking and climbing.

this means a few things. Less clothes, slowing down while walking in - if you can avoid elevated heart rate and breathing hard, you’ll avoid sweating. If you can’t, you better only have one layer on, and let it fully cool and the sweat evaporate before you drsss at your tree.

as far as climbing goes - I can dress for 10-40* temps at base of tree, with exception of outer layer for upper body, and use any climbing method without sweating. This requires you to be proficient with whatever climbing method you’re using, and to go slow. There’s two type of sweat. Exercise/overheating sweat, and stress sweat. One is eliminated by going slow. One is eliminated by knowing what you’re doing and not getting frustrated.

if you cant climb 20’ in a tree using any of the aviable methods without sweating, you’re wearing too much clothes, going too fast, aren’t good enough at it, or are in such bad aerobic condition you shouldn’t be climbing trees to begin with.

 

[woodsdog2]

Yes take your time and plan well ahead of your normal schedule to give yourself time to "suit up" at the base of the tree. Never sweat going in when its cold or you'll be screwed. I try to carry most of my stuff in wearing just my baselayers and then bdu pants and if its a bit colder, a hoody. Otherwise just a long sleeve camo t-shirt over my base layers which are a combination of merino wool and polyester. Presets just carrying my weapon and bulky clothes in. New areas or new locations within and around preset locations obviously I try to carry everything in so I don't get heated up and especially on public where I'm going in a ways. With precipitation coming down I wear a thin wool anorak from Asbell Wool so my underclothes don't get soaked on the way in but I'm still not getting too overheated. None of this in my experience is perfect but going this route you should be able to hunt at least four hours in super cold temps. I have found rather than your normal bulky "over-bibs" for those mid to late October through Mid November days, last year I went to ECWCS Polar fleece bibs that you wear over your base layers but under your bdu's and regular hunting clothes and they provide great midriff warmth especially for saddle hunting where the break between your tops and bottoms can sometimes be accentuated due to the saddle. Earlier in the season I just wear the polyester base layer under these say 35 to 40 degrees, then I switch to my wool/polyester blend base layers for times below 35 degrees. At about in the teens I'm packing my regular bibs. I like to be able to walk in light and nimble then get bulked up when I'm done doing most of the energy exerting activities.

Another thing I do and I don't read much about it in the "how to keep warm" threads is the actual location where you plan to hunt. Wind chill is a killer to long stand sits but you will not have to bulk up as much if (like we've pounded over and over again ad nauseum) you don't sweat going in AND also, you select locations (like the deer and big bucks do) where the wind is NOT blowing at you constantly. Find those terrain features, side hills, the lee side of ridges where there is good sign etc. where you will be out of the wind. The deer hate the wind during the cold too... .so should you. Find those spots out of the wind and set up early in them. It will be like a different world and you'll stay warmer on stand too.

 

[boyne bowhunter]

I'm gonna disagree with wearing anything cotton. Why not wear a thin synthetic? Lots of synthetics are now made with antimicrobial properties so they will be less apt to smell. Even if you do remove a sweaty cotton layer, you still possess that bacteria factory in your stand. Moisture promotes bacteria and that increases odors. And the wet cotton basically becomes dead weight in your pack...it serves no purpose. The synthetic can still be used for insulation if needed.

Another thing that makes a world of difference for me is a hand muff with a couple Hot Hands in it.

I also own a small thermos and sometimes I will fill it with hot apple cider and take an occasional sip. It really helps take the edge off of the cold, and apple cider has deodorizing properties so it also helps minimize mouth odor.

For me, I wear the cotton T over my synthetic wicking layer especially because it does absorb the moisture making it easy to shed the wet layer if I need to. I'm not hunting in mountainous terrain, miles back in where I may have to spend a night. The only reason I have some up to 1 mile walks is because I choose not to drive closer (the truck being at camp can be a deterrent to some would be troublemakers). I agree, for true wilderness hunts the saying cotton kills definitely applies. Not so for much in my twice a day excursions into the "wilds" of northern Michigan . Additional, how much does a soaked tee shirt weigh? Certainly less than a pound. Even in my advancing years I can suck it up and lug that back out.

If scent is the issue all I would really need is a large zip lock bag in my pack. I don't bother though since I figure my sweaty ball cap rim is not much different. I just tuck both down in the bottom of my pack and rely on my tree selection based on my assessment of wind/thermal direction to bail me out. Also, I have a large selection of these camo long sleeve tees so I just throw it in the laundry bag back at camp and break out a fresh one if II need to.

 

[Plebe]

Anyone find a good solution to packing fanatic bibs and jacket along with WE steps, saddle and platform. The fanatic stuff is awesome for staying warm, but does NOT compress to much of anything

I run incinerator bibs or Stratus (depending on temp) because they compress way better than Fanatic. I do love my fanatic jacket though (old elevated forest version).

I lengthen the lid straps on my pack all the way, roll up the bibs (bungee, strap, or gear tie them in a roll), lay the coat underneath them and tighten the straps down.

I know some guys are moding laundry bags with compression straps and fitting them to their system for packing coats and bibs, I haven’t tried it.

A frame pack, as Kyler notes, is often the best solution, and is what I prefer if carrying a large platform.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

For me, I wear the cotton T over my synthetic wicking layer especially because it does absorb the moisture making it easy to shed the wet layer if I need to. I'm not hunting in mountainous terrain, miles back in where I may have to spend a night. The only reason I have some up to 1 mile walks is because I choose not to drive closer (the truck being at camp can be a deterrent to some would be troublemakers). I agree, for true wilderness hunts the saying cotton kills definitely applies. Not so for much in my twice a day excursions into the "wilds" of northern Michigan . Additional, how much does a soaked tee shirt weigh? Certainly less than a pound. Even in my advancing years I can suck it up and lug that back out.

If scent is the issue all I would really need is a large zip lock bag in my pack. I don't bother though since I figure my sweaty ball cap rim is not much different. I just tuck both down in the bottom of my pack and rely on my tree selection based on my assessment of wind/thermal direction to bail me out. Also, I have a large selection of these camo long sleeve tees so I just throw it in the laundry bag back at camp and break out a fresh one if II need to.

Oops, I misread your original post and I didn't realize you were wearing a synthetic base under the cotton.
My point about the cotton in the pack being useless weight wasn't exactly about it being "heavy". My point was that a damp cotton in a pack is useless.
And if your hat is getting sweaty, why are you wearing it? The 1st way to regulate temps is to adjust head gear.

 

[Erkman28]

pack them just like any other clothes. Clothes don’t need to be in a pack. You’ll see lots of people advocate for frame packs(myself included) for this very reason. Shove clothes in the load shelf and go. Sometimes it makes sense to have a water proof bag to put them in if you’re hiking remote in bad weather, or if you have to go through briars and hitchhikers.

strapping 20-30lbs of clothes to the front of a cheap ill fitting backpack will be miserable to carry.

as for sweating, the above advice is sound. You should be very cold when you leave access. Like “what the hell am I doing I can put more clothes on?!” Cold. Once you start walking and get your heart rate elevated and muscles engorged, you’ll start generating serious body heat. If you’re in warm clothes your body will think it’s time to start sweating.

you’ve got to keep your temperature down when walking and climbing.

this means a few things. Less clothes, slowing down while walking in - if you can avoid elevated heart rate and breathing hard, you’ll avoid sweating. If you can’t, you better only have one layer on, and let it fully cool and the sweat evaporate before you drsss at your tree.

as far as climbing goes - I can dress for 10-40* temps at base of tree, with exception of outer layer for upper body, and use any climbing method without sweating. This requires you to be proficient with whatever climbing method you’re using, and to go slow. There’s two type of sweat. Exercise/overheating sweat, and stress sweat. One is eliminated by going slow. One is eliminated by knowing what you’re doing and not getting frustrated.

if you cant climb 20’ in a tree using any of the aviable methods without sweating, you’re wearing too much clothes, going too fast, aren’t good enough at it, or are in such bad aerobic condition you shouldn’t be climbing trees to begin with.

Excellent advice thank you

 

[Plebe]

Oops, I misread your original post and I didn't realize you were wearing a synthetic base under the cotton.
My point about the cotton in the pack being useless weight wasn't exactly about it being "heavy". My point was that a damp cotton in a pack is useless.
And if your hat is getting sweaty, why are you wearing it? The 1st way to regulate temps is to adjust head gear.

Some states require an orange hat by law. I hate wearing the hat, in the dark, but do it when required.

I also misread that post, but your recommendation is useful to me. I’m going to go the lightweight wool t shirt route I think, as it soaks up moisture and controls odor.