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Hickory Creek Koolaid

T1 demonstrates unpredictable parallax shift. T2 performs better wrt that. May not be an issue for some, but worth noting for those who would like the benefit of more consistency in that regards.
 
T1 demonstrates unpredictable parallax shift. T2 performs better wrt that. May not be an issue for some, but worth noting for those who would like the benefit of more consistency in that regards.

I’ve had mine for about 10 years on 4 different weapons and not had any issues. T2 is slightly sexier. If I were buying new right now, I would go with the T2.


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I’ve had mine for about 10 years on 4 different weapons and not had any issues. T2 is slightly sexier. If I were buying new right now, I would go with the T2.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not saying the T1 is bad. Its a good optic, but it has average parallax shift, noted to be a bit more unpredictable optic-to-optic and user-to-user. The T-2 is more consistent and a bit better there.

If I anticipated I'd be taking contorted shots like some show on saddle hunting videos, I'd spring for the T-2.

I prefer big platforms and predictable shooting positions, so I'm sure the T1 would be fine for me.
 
Call me stupid. But when shooting crossbows I am used to some variation of 4 or 5 stacked dots and each one is out to a specific distance, between 20-60 yards or something like that.

How does that play-in when using red dots, you just manually move the red dot based on distance, hold it higher or lower, depending on distance?
 
Call me stupid. But when shooting crossbows I am used to some variation of 4 or 5 stacked dots and each one is out to a specific distance, between 20-60 yards or something like that.

How does that play-in when using red dots, you just manually move the red dot based on distance, hold it higher or lower, depending on distance?
At 320 fps I can shoot from 10 to 40 yards and never hold over/under a 9" circle. Really out to 30 yards it's just point and shoot. No need for multiple reticles or adjusting. Every deer I've ever killed with a bow or crossbow except one has been inside of 30 yards, and I've only killed one at 40. If you want to shoot past that a red dot wouldn't be my first pick. But for typical archery distances it's pretty sweet to just point and shoot.
 
Call me stupid. But when shooting crossbows I am used to some variation of 4 or 5 stacked dots and each one is out to a specific distance, between 20-60 yards or something like that.

How does that play-in when using red dots, you just manually move the red dot based on distance, hold it higher or lower, depending on distance?
One dot for multiple yardages. Figure on MOD "Minute of Deer" instead of "Minute of Angle" You can, by holding on to the point of the shoulder, have your arrows group within the 6-8" diameter pie plate size of the deer's vitals from 0-X yards depending on your setup. There are other red dots that have multiple dots if you prefer that but I like keeping it simple and with the 23" .300 spine arrows that come stock with the minny and 100grain tips, you're getting around 320fps so that's a pretty decent speed and trajectory to be able to shoot from 0-25 or even 0-30 yards with just aiming on the point of the shoulder or "elbow" of the deer.
 
I like the sound of all this. But not the price tag of that Aimpoint, gracious alive.
 
I like the sound of all this. But not the price tag of that Aimpoint, gracious alive.
You don't need an Aimpoint I'm using an "oldy but a good" bushnell Trophy I've had on shotguns in the past when we could only use slugs for deer and bear here. IT works fine. The squirrel killer uses a Burris Fastfire III reflex style red dot. They're around $225 give or take.
 
Call me stupid. But when shooting crossbows I am used to some variation of 4 or 5 stacked dots and each one is out to a specific distance, between 20-60 yards or something like that.

How does that play-in when using red dots, you just manually move the red dot based on distance, hold it higher or lower, depending on distance?

I mounted my red dot on a HHA optimizer, I had it laying around and use it now
you have to mount differently than a scope, with the red dot I mounted the sight on the front of the optimizer bar
furthest away from the stock, and it raises or lowers the front of the mount with the dial, used a blank tape and sighted in for 20
then as I backed up, I lowered the front of the optimizer with the dial and marked the tape with a marker out to 40
it works pretty good,
now I can range a target, spin the dial to the distance and shoot, works like a charm

normally an optimizer raises or lowers the back of the scope, you have to work it completely opposite to have a single red dot
on the front, takes some tinkering but it works well
 
Not to intending to hijack the current thought but how do you cock a mini without taking the supplied Quiver off? Is there another Quiver that might work to give a guy enough room to get his boot in the stirrup?
 
Not to intending to hijack the current thought but how do you cock a mini without taking the supplied Quiver off? Is there another Quiver that might work to give a guy enough room to get his boot in the stirrup?

If you go back and find it, it's buried somewhere in this thread, there is an OEM offset bracket that is discontinued that some folks have found on ebay, etc., that move it out of the way @DanO was looking at recreating it at one point but not sure how that's going.

I posted the question in the HC vertical crossbow FB group and found a really cool solution. The honeycomb led light Trophy Ridge quiver comes with an offset bracket that puts it out of the way. Seems pretty cool when looking at it. The photos attached are not mine, but of someone in the group to swapped it out.
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Pulled the mini out yesterday to take a few shots and trigger was actin funny. Felt different. Also the anti dry fire safety tab was so tight I couldn’t get it to press down to load an arrow. Typical me is to just force it, but I turned 40 this year and decided I’d uncock the bow and inspect it. Glad I did. The small threaded bar that connects the trigger to the release had slowly come unthreaded. If I would’ve forced the dry fire safety down it would have released and dry fired on my a$$! This is just a heads up for y’all to maybe add some thread lock on that sucker!! As you were.
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Not to intending to hijack the current thought but how do you cock a mini without taking the supplied Quiver off? Is there another Quiver that might work to give a guy enough room to get his boot in the stirrup?
I put an HHA offset bracket on and it moves my four arrow Kwikee Kwiver far enough offset to cock it without have to remove it. @redsquirrel posted one on this thread awhile back after I posted a video from The FieldArcher's youtube channel on a Kwikee Kwiver offset bracket they used to make but is no longer available. I believe that is the one @DanO of EWO was going to see if they could replicate. Correct me if I'm wrong with any of this.
 
I put an HHA offset bracket on and it moves my four arrow Kwikee Kwiver far enough offset to cock it without have to remove it. @redsquirrel posted one on this thread awhile back after I posted a video from The FieldArcher's youtube channel on a Kwikee Kwiver offset bracket they used to make but is no longer available. I believe that is the one @DanO of EWO was going to see if they could replicate. Correct me if I'm wrong with any of this.
I've got the old kwikee offset on mine as well and works great!
 
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